Kwenye yeengqokelela zakhe ezinamandla, uSarah Burton.
Kwenye yeyona ngqokelela yakhe inamandla yamadoda okwangoku, uAlexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2019 Paris nguSarah Burton wathatha inguqu enzima ngoluhlu lwesikhumba esiziphu.
I-trenchcoats eziqhekekileyo kunye nemiphetho ebukhali yokuthunga iphefumlelwe nguFrancis Bacon kunye noJohn Deakin, umfoti wenkulungwane yama-20 owabamba i-louche uhlala eSoho yaseLondon.
UBurton wayefuna ukugxila kwindlela la madoda antsokothileyo, anenkathazo awayephila kwaye asebenza ngayo: “Ndandifuna ukuba yindoda kakhulu, indoda enamandla kakhulu,” utshilo. "Kukho uluvo lwengozi, kunye nokubonakaliswa kobugcisa ekusikeni nasekuthungeni."
Ngemizila yeenqwelo moya yaseYurophu ngoku izele ziimpahla zasesitalatweni - iya kuyeka nini? — le ngqokelela, inamagxa ayo abukhali nakroliweyo kaMcQueen, ezinqeni ezikrazukileyo kunye neekhafu ezimhlophe ezistatshi ezijingayo kwijacket kunye nemikhono yedyasi, yayiyi-jolt ehlaziyayo.
UBurton wambonisa iimilo ezinomphetho oqinileyo one-chisel-toed kunye neebhutsi ze-Chelsea kunye nezihlangu ezinomphetho we-angular.
“Ayisiyompahla yasesitratweni. Sinaye umqeqeshi, kodwa akakho kumgaqo weenqwelo-moya.”
Uye wachaza ukuba into ayibonise kwiOrangerie du Senat eJardin du Luxembourg “yayisinxibo sasesitalatweni seminyaka yamashumi amahlanu namashumi amathandathu.
Walatha kwi-lipstick yesikhumba epinki edityaniswe ne-duchess satin, kwaye wayithelekisa nomnye wabalinganiswa uDeakin okanye uBacon ekusenokwenzeka ukuba wadibana naye ejikeleza iSoho ebusuku.
Imijelo yobuNtofontofo
Ukuthunga kukwaze ngendlela yeedyasi ezimnyama ezimtyibilizi ezijingayo ezijingayo ezimhlophe, i-cape-trenches eqingqwe ezinqeni kunye namagxa abanzi kunye neesuti ze-trompe l'oeil pinstripe ezinemiqala enqamlezileyo.
Iidyasi zihlala zisenza ingxelo eMcQueen kwaye ezinye iindawo ezibalaseleyo zibandakanya iinkamela ezinomqolo wesatin kunye nemisele eqhekezwe kwisiqingatha, enye inxalenye emnyama kunye nenxalenye enye yekhaki.
Ezinye iziqwenga zazityitywe ngemivumbo yebhrashi engabonakaliyo: umhombiso omhlophe kwidyasi emnyama, enemiphetho ejingayo efana nepeyinti, okanye igazi elibomvu kwisuti emnyama.
Iisuti ezikhazimlayo ngoshicilelo lwegraffiti, kubandakanywa nebhayisekile yesikhumba emnyama ehonjiswe ngesplodges zombala oqaqambileyo.
UBurton usenokuba wajonga kwixesha elidlulileyo ukuze aphefumlele, kodwa into ebonisiwe kumgaqo weenqwelo-moya ngolweSihlanu ebusuku yayimalunga nemeko yanamhlanje emehlweni kaMcQueen.
Jonga umgaqo weenqwelo-moya opheleleyo uAlexander McQueen @alexandermcqueen.
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