ngu-ALEXANDER FURY
Kunye nomlawuli woyilo uSarah Burton usengekho kwikhefu lokubeleka emva kokuzalwa komntwana wakhe wesithathu, ileyibhile yakwa-Alexander McQueen yabuya umva kwindlela yeenqwelo-moya ukuze ibonise ingqokelela yayo yamva nje yeempahla zamadoda ngothotho lwexesha lokuqeshwa kunye nolandelelwano lwemifanekiso yomoya efotwe nguJulia Hetta. “Ngeke uzifumane kumboniso,” watsho uHarley Hughes, intloko kaMcQueen yoyilo lweempahla zamadoda, kwimifanekiso epeyintiweyo kaHetta.
Kwakhona awuyi kufumana elo nqanaba lokusebenzisana, kunye nabaqulunqi okanye iimpahla ngokwabo. Yenze impikiswano efanelekileyo yezinye iindlela zokubonisa i-catwalk-eye yaziva ngexesha elifanelekileyo, inikwe ukuxutywa kwangoku kweendlela zeenqwelo-moya zamadoda kunye nabasetyhini ezivela kubantu abaninzi bexesha le-brand (i-FYI-McQueen reps ithi ileyibhile iya kubuya ibonise i-Fall 2017). Kwaye iimpahla zamadoda zikaMcQueen zijongisisa ngakumbi, njengoko uhlolo luhlala lunikezela ngeenkcukacha ezifihliweyo ukuba umgaqo weenqwelomoya unokugxobha. Kule ngqokelela, ezo nkcukacha zibandakanya umgca wokugoqa ngamabomu we-embroideries yegolide ehombisa i sweatshi kunye neebhatyi, eziphefumlelwe ngumbono weempahla ezigciniweyo ezikhuniweyo kunye nokukhathazeka ngenxa yobudala, ukuvuselelwa kweentandokazi ze-wardrobe endala.
Kwakukho imvakalelo yokuqhelana nale ngqokelela—enye into, iqhubekile ngendlela efanayo neyeempahla zamadoda zikaMcQueen’s Fall, ijiwulwa ukusuka kwisitrato ukuya kumsitho kwaye inika uthungelwano olubukhali lwemini kunye nempahla yangokuhlwa ehonjiswe ngokonwabisayo, edityaniswe nezihlangu ezimhlophe zokunxiba. imvakalelo yangoku. Kuyabonakala ukuba, ecaleni kweziqwenga ezihonjisiweyo, ukukhaba kukaMcQueen yinto yokuqala yokuthengisa xa befika ezivenkileni. Kodwa ikwabhekiselele kumthungo otyebileyo wendlela yokuthunga yesiNgesi yakudala, yeengubo zasemkhosini eziphothiweyo kunye nelokhwe emdaka yegosa ebaluleke kakhulu ekusindeni kwenkulungwane yama-21 eSavile Row, apho uLee McQueen oselula waqala ukufunda umsebenzi wakhe.
U-Hughes ucacise ngebali lebali: "Umfana we-'60s, eLondon, wahamba waya kuntywila kwi-India yobukhosi," watsho. Ke iisuti zazisikwe kabukhali, kwibrocade ye-paisley ekrunchy kunye nenqaku likaMnu. Intlanzi, ukhetho lwe-psychedelic '60s isuti-umenzi, ecaleni kweedyasi ezihonjisiweyo ezihonjisiweyo, iishifti eziphothiweyo, kunye ne-dandyish ye-silk roll-necks esekwe kwisitayile sakudala seTurnbull & Asser. . Bobabini kunye noMnu. Intlanzi-kuko konke okungaqhelekanga kwakhe-babeBhrithani ngapha nangapha, njengoMcQueen ngokwakhe. Ewe, ngaphandle kokuzulazula kwempembelelo, iziphumo zibuyela eLondon. I-Raj inokuba nempembelelo yentlawulelo kamaharani yeejule zokuncamathisela, umzekelo, kodwa ziye zaxhonywa kwiiyantlukwano kwixesha elidlulileyo lobucwebe obufanelekileyo bobuso bexesha elidlulileyo-i-clip-on, endaweni yokugqobhoza izidlele zeemodeli, kodwa nangona kunjalo ngokucacileyo i-punk in. ukuziva. Nokuba iivelvethi ezityumkileyo zajika zasisityebi seturmeric, uHughes akazange akwazi ukuzibamba kodwa wathi baye balahleka “kwindawo yaseKeith Richards.”
Imifanekiso ebukekayo kaHetta ngokwayo, okwangoku, ivakalisa imvakalelo eshushu, etshiswe lilanga yeMumbai engenamoya kwiminyaka engama-50 eyadlulayo, imenyezela yinkungu engathi yintanga. Yaba, ngokumangalisayo, yadutyulwa kwikona ukusuka kwi-McQueen HQ kwibhokisi yeglasi eClerkenwell yaseLondon, ithatha ithuba lemozulu epholileyo yesixeko kaJuni ukuze imele ilizwekazi. Awunakuze uyifumane loo nto kumboniso wendlela yokubaleka, eneneni.