ngu-ALEXANDER FURY
Iimpahla zikaFausto Puglisi zihambelana neyona nto ichanekileyo, ingcamango ekhethekileyo yefashoni "yesiTaliyane": ihonjiswe kakhulu, iphethe i-floridly patterned, inemibala eqaqambileyo, kwaye, kwabaninzi, incinci kakhulu. Usekhaya eFlorence, kunye nepalazzi yayo ehonjisiweyo kunye neendawo ezityebileyo ezingasemva zeRenaissance yobugcisa.
Ngokungafanelekanga, uPuglisi wakhetha ukubonisa kwisikhululo sikaloliwe esingasasetyenziswayo. Mhlawumbi kungenxa yokuba wagqiba ekubeni anike umhlobiso-i-phalanx yemizimba, indoda nebhinqa, njengefrieze yaseRoma, ephakanyiswe kwi-plinth kwaye egqoke kwiminikelo yakhe yamva nje. Oko kukuthi, ingqokelela yakhe ye-Resort yakhe, kunye ne-menswear yakhe yokuqala ye-Spring 2017. Bahlala kunye ngokugqibeleleyo, kwihlabathi elithile eligqithisekileyo elihlala li-Puglisi, njenge-Michelangelo mural via Las Vegas, okanye abo bokuqala-'90s multi-model Gianni. Amaphulo eVersace adutyulwe nguRichard Avedon. Abasetyhini babenxibe iilokhwe ezimfutshane, ezimenyezelayo ezinemibala emininzi eneentyatyambo ezijutting jutting skater okanye iileya ezihonjisiweyo ezihonjiswe nguPuglisi awathi zezakhe (baxabanise nelo lifa leVersace likhankanywe ngasentla). Onke la madoda ayebonakala efuzisela i-machismo yase-Italiya esemazantsi—ngaphezu kwembinana eneendevu, efanekisela noPuglisi ngokwakhe.
Yayikhangeleka ingangqinelani kancinane—kodwa ngandlel’ ithile yayingekho ngqiqweni. Unokuthi kwangoko kwaye ngokucacileyo unxibelelanise isinxibo samadoda sikaPuglisi kuVersace, kodwa nakwinkangeleko entsha ebonelelwa nguOlivier Rousteing eBalmain. Zombini iilebhile zenza ishishini elikhawulezayo lamadoda-kwaye bambalwa koololiwe.
Buza uPuglisi ukuba kutheni ekhethe ngoku ukubonisa ezamadoda, kwaye unyusa amagxa. “Bendithetha noSelfridges, okanye uBergdorf Goodman, okanye uJoyce, okanye uLane Crawford,” utshilo, ecaphula izitokhwe zakhe ezine ezinkulu ngomculo oqhumayo ohamba nentetho yakhe kaPitti Uomo. “Bathi, ‘Kuthekani ngokwenza ezabantu? Kuba amadoda amaninzi athenga amaqhekeza amabhinqa akho angaphezulu.’ ” Ngokucacileyo kukho indawo yomnye umntu ongaxoleliyo, ngakumbi kwimbonakalo yefashoni yase-Italiya, nangona ungazange ucinge ukuba uPuglisi luhlobo lomyili wokulwela iwodrophu entsha ekwifashoni yokungakhathali ngokwesini. Ngokukodwa njengemibono yakhe yobudoda kunye neyasetyhini-ezo modeli zamadoda zimpompelwe kwimpahla yezemidlalo ekhazimlayo ngokuchasene ne-A-line skirted, iimazi ezinezithende eziphakamileyo-zibonakala ziqelelene njenge G.I. UJoe kunye noBarbie.
Ngelixa uhlobo lwamadoda oluya kukhupha iimali ezinkulu kwi-bedazzled bit of womenswear, nanamhlanje, bambalwa naphakathi, kukho abafana abaya kutsalwa ukuhomba kukaPuglisi. “Amadoda amaxesha amaninzi akhululeka ngakumbi,” uqiqa ngelithi umyili. "Ibhinqa licinga, 'Ngaba ndilungile ngokwaneleyo? Ndilalana kakhulu?’ Kanti indoda: Ukuba uyayithanda, uyanxiba.” Ukuba uyamthanda uPuglisi, uya kunxiba iibhatyi zebhombu ezihonjiswe ngesignesha yakhe ehonjiswe ngegolide yentlanzi kunye namaqokobhe, iintsimbi zomqala ezivuza iikorale ezinzima, izikipa ezifakwe isitampu semifanekiso yoothixo bamaRoma okanye izigcina-ntloko ze-Centurion, kunye neembadada zegladiator ezigcwele iimbasa, ezisongekileyo. phakamisa umlenze phantsi kweebhulukhwe ezimfutshane eziprintiweyo kunye neentyantyambo ze-hothouse okanye i-denim edibeneyo.
Kwakunjalo, kulungile ukuthetha, yonke into iphantse ibe yincinci kakhulu. “Andikhathali nokuba yintoni incasa elungileyo kunye nencasa embi,” utshilo uPuglisi. Kwaye kukho into ethethwayo malunga nendlela uPuglisi angena ngayo ngentliziyo epheleleyo kunye nentliziyo epheleleyo kwizitayile ezininzi eziya kuhlangana ngokuthe ngqo ekugqibeleni. Ikwaqinisekisa. Ngendlela engaqhelekanga, kulula ukubona umthengi kwimpahla yakhe yamadoda kuneyabafazi bakhe, ngoko ngokulula inkangeleko inokutsalwa ibe yintetho enye-ibhombu ehonjisiweyo, ihonjiswe emfutshane, isikipa esihonjisiweyo-kwaye zidityaniswe nezinye (kuqikelelwa ukuba, ihonjiswe kancinci) izinto. Mhlawumbi kungenxa yokuba le ndoda yasePuglisi ayithembekanga njengowayo umfazi. Awunakukhathazeka ukuba kulula, iibhatyi zakhe ezihlala ziwela kwingqokelela yesinxibo sakhe sabasetyhini, apho ukujonga ngokugqithisileyo okunomtsalane kunganeno yoloyiko, isiqinisekiso esingakumbi. Kodwa mhlawumbi imeko iya kuguqulwa kwabo bathengisi beprofayili ephezulu; Ngokuqinisekileyo ungacinga ukuba inkosikazi yasePuglisi ingena kwiwadi yendoda ngenxa yezi ziqhushumbisi.