Ekuqaleni kwalo nyaka, iRobert Mapplethorpe Foundation yaqhagamshelana noRaf Simons. Bambuza ukuba angathanda na ukusebenza nabo kwinto ethile. Wathi ewe. Leyo yinguqulo ye-shorthand yebali emva kwengqokelela ayibonise kwi-Pitti Immagine Uomo, i-chimed ngokugqibeleleyo kunye ne-duo ye-Mapplethorpe imiboniso kwi-LACMA kunye ne-Getty Museum, kunye ne-HBO documentary enesihloko esithi Jonga kwiMifanekiso. Yayilixesha elifanelekileyo. Kwaye uSimons ungumlandeli weMapplethorpe, ngoko yayiligcisa elifanelekileyo. “Ndiwongiwe,” watsho uSimons emva komboniso wakhe, ilizwi lakhe lingcangcazela. Yiyo ke loo nto waluvala uluvo awayesebenzela kulo ingqokelela (akazukuyityhila ukuba yintoni na; inokuthi, iphume kumboniso wamva) kwaye waqala intsebenziswano yakhe yamagcisa yamva nje.
Ngokuqhelekileyo, xa uSimons esebenza nomzobi, uya kubo. Ngeli xesha, i-dynamics yayitshintshile. Ububele bokunikezelwa kweSiseko seMapplethorpe bubonakaliswa kwisisa sokutolika kweSimons: Akukho mpahla kwi-Simons's Spring 2017 ibonisa ukuba ingabonakali ukuprintwa kweefoto zeMapplethorpe. Iimodeli zakhe zamadoda aneenwele eziphotheneyo, ezineminqwazi yebhayisekile yebhayisekile etyibilikayo, zazihlala zifana ngokumangalisayo nomfoti ngokwakhe-nangona uSimons wathi, endaweni yokuba idoppelgängers yomzobi, "yonke inkwenkwe ingumfanekiso womsebenzi." Ngamnye unokuba ngumhlali weMapplethorpe. Iihempe ezivuzayo zazinemithunzi yeemyuziyam ezidumileyo zikaMapplethorpe uPatti Smith kwiqweqwe lakhe lecwecwe lamahashe. URobert Sherman, imodeli ene-alopecia eyenza ulusu lwakhe lube malunga nebhastile kwimifanekiso yakhe emininzi edutyulwe nguMapplethorpe, naye wayekho kulo mboniso. USimons kwafuneka acoce amalungelo omntu wesithathu nabo bonke abahlali ngaphambi kokuba baphinde bavelise imifanekiso yabo. Kwaqala incoko eyabangela ukuntywiliselwa kwinxalenye kaSimons kumsebenzi kaMapplethorpe.
Oko kwathiwa, umzobi uzihlalele kakhulu. UMapplethorpe wayengumlingisi onomdla, kwaye ubugcisa abunakuhluthwa endodeni. “Ukuba ucinga ngomsebenzi, kukhulu ngaye,” watsho uSimons, kwaye, eneneni, yayininzi kakhulu ngempahla awayeyinxiba, nayo. Kuhambo lokuzifumanisa ngokwesondo, uninzi lwemifanekiso yokuqala yeMapplethorpe yayiyi-Polaroid self-portraits, ifakwe kwimpahla yesikhumba, ivavanya imida yolonwabo kunye neentlungu. Kamva, wabhala amakhubalo akhe ngokwesini; indawo yesikhumba kunye ne-BDSM ubukhulu becala. Impahla yayiyinxalenye ebalulekileyo: Ngesinye isihlandlo, uMapplethorpe waqala ukolula iimpahla zakhe zangaphantsi (ezigugileyo) kwiifreyimu zokhuni ukwenza imifanekiso eqingqiweyo engaqhelekanga; kamva, wambatha ngesikhumba esimnyama.
USimons uyayazi yonke loo nto. Yiyo ke into yokuba imbeko yakhe kuMapplethorpe yaziva ijikelezwe ngokupheleleyo, inomdla kwaye iyinyani. Ubuqhetseba beembekiselo ezininzi zikaSimons zanika ubunzulu bomboniso-i-palette yakhe emnyama; mhlophe; umbala otyumkileyo obomvu, opinki, nomfusa; kunye ne-burgundy yegazi elidibeneyo; iidunga zesikhumba zimenyezela ngamaqhosha esinyithi. USimons uchithe iimvakwemini ezimbini egqogqa kugcino lweMapplethorpe lwamaphepha onxibelelwano. Wazabalaza nesigama sesiNgesi ukuchaza ezo: Wazibiza ngokuba “ziimephu,” eyona ngcinga inomdla ngakumbi nevuselelayo xa isetyenziswa kukhangelo lukaSimons, ukufumana indawo entsha yeMapplethorpe, ukumenza azive efanelekile kwaye enika umdla kwisizukulwana esitsha. . Yiloo nto awayeyibona indima yakhe.
Ndingumlandeli weMapplethorpe nam. Andikwazanga ukuzibamba kodwa ndidibanise lo mboniso kumdla kaMapplethorpe ngeefreyimu, ngokunika umfanekiso wakhe into enomacala amathathu, umgangatho oqingqiweyo ngokufaka isakhelo kunye nokudibanisa kwiivelvethi ezimfumamfuma kunye namaplanga angaqhelekanga, encamathisela imifanekiso kwizinto. Ukwenza iifoto zakhe zibe ngaphezulu kunokuba zinokuvela kuqala. USimons wabumba imifanekiso kaMapplethorpe ngelaphu, kodwa emva koko waphinda wayifakela emzimbeni: umfanekiso oprintwe kwitabhadi, yithi, uphakanyiswe ngamakhethini eebhatyi zeelaphu, okanye utyhilwe kwisikipa esiphantsi kwejezi ejijelwe ngokukhululekileyo. USimons utsaleleke kwimifanekiso yeentyatyambo ye-Mapplethorpe, imifanekiso yakhe efanelekileyo yezifundo ezidumileyo ezinjengoDebbie Harry, obanjwe kwii-coronas zokukhanya, kunye namagcisa awathi uSimons wabelana ngokubancoma, njengo-Alice Neel, owabanjwa kwiveki okanye ngaphambi kokubhubha kwakhe esibhedlele. umfanekiso ongaqhelekanga we-1984. Ukwabelana ngesondo kwakukho apho, kwakhona; USimons wazingisa kuloo nto. Ijacket ephantsi egxininiswe ngenkumbulo yajika ukuba ibonise umfanekiso we-phallus emile.
Kwakhona wasebenzisa ibinzana elithi “curation” ukuchaza lo mboniso: “Ndandifuna ukusondela kuwo njengomboniso wemyuziyam, okanye umboniso wegalari. Yenziwe rhoqo kakhulu xa kufikwa kumsebenzi weMapplethorpe. UCindy Sherman uyenzile, uDavid Hockney uyenzile. Kodwa ihlala ikwigalari.” USimons wafinga iintshiya. “Ndingumyili wefashoni. Bendicinga ukuba olona celomngeni iyakuba kukwenza kwindawo endihlala kuyo.”
Umba wogcino lwenzelwa umbono onomdla, ngakumbi ngexesha apho abaninzi abayili befanelekile kwaye bebhekisa ngaphandle kwetyala-kwaye xa abantu abaninzi bephosa isenzi "curate." Kubonisa ubume bukaSimons-intlonipho, ukuthula, ubukrelekrele obuninzi-ukuba akazange abone le ngqokelela kungekhona njengendalo yakhe kunye nemifanekiso kaMapplethorpe, kodwa njengentsebenziswano efana nomboniso wegalari, apho indima yakhe yayikhona, ubuncinci ngokuyinxalenye. abonise imisebenzi ayinikiweyo. Kodwa kwakhona yayikukusebenzisa ezo ncwadi ukubalisa ibali elitsha, elichulumancisayo nelixhokonxayo. Ukusibonisa into entsha eyaziwayo, kwaye ibonwa kakhulu, oovimba beMapplethorpe. Nto leyo ngokungathandabuzekiyo wayenza.