Alexander McQueen orisun omi / ooru 2016 London

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Samuel Taylor Coleridge's 1798 "Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner" wa si ọkan bi a ṣe jẹri ifihan Sarah Burton ni The Arches ni Southwark loni. Awọn ero inu omi, awọn ẹda itan-akọọlẹ, ati sisọṣọṣọ Edwardian sọ nipa irin-ajo apọju kan lori awọn okun gbangba. Imọye ewu ti o sunmọ ti o lo lati gba ọpọlọpọ awọn ifihan Lee McQueen bori ninu ina gbigbẹ aaye naa bi awọn ọfọ ti o buruju ti nwọle ni ati jade ninu ohun orin ẹhin. Pẹlu ifihan Savage Beauty ti n tẹsiwaju ni Victoria & Albert Museum, o ṣoro lati ṣe itọju ifihan loni ni iye oju laisi ṣopọ gbogbo awọn romanticisms dudu ti o ni wiwaba ati awọn imọran ti awọn aifọkanbalẹ inu pada si iranti Lee. Bí àmì náà bá wà nínú ìkésíni náà, àwòrán ọkùnrin kan tí ó jẹ́ afẹ́fẹ́ Fikitoria kan wà tí wọ́n fín sára àwọn orin Bright Eyes sí ọwọ́ rẹ̀ pé: “Nigbati ohun gbogbo bá dá wà, Mo lè jẹ́ ọ̀rẹ́ mi tímọ́tímọ́.” Akori ti adashe jẹ ọkan ti o wọpọ ni pinpin kọja awọn itọpa ti ara ẹni ti McQueen, Coleridge, ati Mariner - ati pe o tun ṣẹlẹ lati jẹ akọrin ti o dun julọ ninu ikojọpọ.

Agbara rẹ, gẹgẹ bi ọran ni akoko to kọja, wa ni pipe ti ge. Wiwo ṣiṣi funfun opiti pẹlu iṣẹṣọọṣọ Victorian kọja àyà ṣe atunyin ayẹyẹ Sarah Burton ti gentry Igba Irẹdanu Ewe/igba otutu to kẹhin. Òótọ́ ni pé àwọn atukọ̀ ojú omi lóde òní túbọ̀ ń dàrú sí i, ṣùgbọ́n ó jẹ́ kí wọ́n ṣíwọ́ àlàyé tó pọ̀ sí i. Awọn aworan itọsọna Cardinal ati awọn ìdákọró ti a ṣe ọṣọ pajamas ti a ṣepọ pẹlu awọn kola fifi ọpa ọgagun; irin eyelets punctured tobijulo peacoats; ati awọn ila ti omi ni a yọkuro, ti a pin, ati diced lori awọn ipele ale. Olaju kan wa si telo ti a ko tii rii ni igba diẹ: awọn gige ti a ge, awọn ẹgbẹ-ikun, ati awọn alaye (gẹgẹbi awọn apo) diẹ sii ni pipa-kilter. Ifihan crescendo-ed ni awọn apejọ mẹta ti o kẹhin pẹlu awọn atunṣe ẹjẹ ni kikun ti awọn ohun ibanilẹru okun ti o wuyi lati awọn maapu igba atijọ ti ọdun 16th ati 17th ti yoo ti ni irọrun cameo-ed ni awọn itan-akọọlẹ Coleridge. Aso regency ti o tii awọn show punctuated awọn gbigba ni akoko pipe; pacing je o tayọ.

Bi o ti n lọ, Burton yoo nigbagbogbo ni ogún ti Lee McQueen looming lori ile. Ṣugbọn imọ-jinlẹ rẹ ni fifamọra ni awọn okun ọkan ti awọn onijakidijagan ti o ni itara julọ ti Lee, nipasẹ idapọpọ oye ti nostalgia ati eré, tọsi iyìn tirẹ. Ifihan oni jẹ ifihan ti agbara Burton lati fa awọn aṣọ ti o ni itara ti o ga julọ ti o jẹ ijiyan ipaniyan ti o ga julọ ti iṣẹ Lee - ipaniyan didan miiran ti o ngbe titi di iduro ti ile.

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