Kusemthethweni. Ukuthatheka kwemfashini ngeNtwasahlobo ukuhamba—omqondofana, empeleni, ayashesha ukuchaza iso labaqambi elihambahambayo, elijikelezayo, elizulazulayo. Kukhona ezintathu ezingasebenzi, khona lapho. Lowo mbono wokunyakaza okungapheli awuwona nje umthombo wogqozi kuKim Jones—uyindlela yokuphila. Uyindoda ebanjwe ukuzulazula, indoda eya eJapane iyodwa izikhathi ezingaphezu kuka-70 kule minyaka eyishumi edlule, kanye nezindawo eziningi ngaphandle kwalokho.
Ukuhambisana noJones kuwumsebenzi onzima. Ngokufanelekile, unikezwe umsebenzi wokudizayina izigqoko zabesilisa zikaLouis Vuitton, indlu okusungulwa kwayo i-raison d’être kwakuwumqondo womhambi. Akuvamisile ukuthi yini kodwa lapho ngokulandelayo ngoJones, uma kukhulunywa ngogqozi. Izigcawu zenza imithungo.
Kwenzeka kanjani-ke ukuthi ngesizini ezayo uJones anqume ukuthi angaphunyuki, kodwa abuye? Umbukiso wakhe we-Spring Louis Vuitton wawungelona uhambo — kunalokho, ukuza ekhaya. Ngokwemfashini evamile kaJones, lokho akuhlobene nendawo eyodwa, kodwa i-trio: i-Afrika, lapho akhulela khona; eLondon, lapho afunda khona; naseParis, lapho ehlala futhi esebenza khona manje.
Lezi ezimbili zokugcina zazibonakala kakhulu: I-Afrika, umthombo wezikhumba zikanokusho zengwenya nentshe, amasheke aphefumulelwe amaMasai, kanye nophalethi olumhlophe lwe-savanna, olumpumputhe esihlabathini olugcwele i-buff, taupe, ne-ecru (singakubiza ngokuthi. beige); ngenkathi iLondon inikela ngepunk. “Kuhlale kukhona into encane yaseLondon efihlwe ndawana thize,” kusho uJones. Empeleni, bekukuningi impela. UJones ungumqoqi oshisekayo we-punk memorabilia—ibutho lakhe lika-Vivienne Westwood kanye noMalcolm McLaren ophuma enkathini yabo ye-Sex and Seditionaries ingeyesibili kokunye, okuhlanganisa neminyuziyamu eminingi—futhi wayisebenzisa kahle njengereferensi yeqoqo leqoqo eliboshiwe. amabhulukwe, ama-D-rings, namakholola ezinja, nakuba kuqedwe ngendlela exakile ngendlela yesiFulentshi. Leyo khola yenja, ngenhlanhla, kwakuyisitayela se-Vuitton esigcina umlando, esivame ukusetshenziselwa ama-pooches, aqanjwe ngokuthi "i-Baxter."
Kwakuyilawo ma-crossovers angajwayelekile, ane-anachronistic enza leli qoqo lihlabeke umxhwele. Kuthiwani ngama-Afrika ahlola i-tartan ecishe ibe yi-tartan kulezo zihlahlana eziboshiwe? Noma ukuthi imininingwane yokusetshenziswa kwe-punk ixhunywe, kaJones, engxenyeni yokusebenza yomlando we-Vuitton, iziqeshana nokuqiniswa kweziqu zendabuko. Ibhomu eliyi-pinky-tan esicini sokugqashuka kwesikhumba sentshe lalikhumbuza isisho sakudala esithi: I-punk ifana namabala acindezelayo. Ngaphandle, uma lezi Vuitton bezimpintsha, bekuzoba se-spa e-Champneys. Khona-ke kukhona iziqu zeqiniso ezazibizwa ngokuthi "Izici zePlastiki" kanye nomqondo wokuthi, ngokwethembeka, i-canvas ehlanganisiwe ye-Vuitton iwuhlobo olukhazimulayo (futhi olubiza kakhulu) lwepulasitiki. UJones wayenezinto zangempela kulo mbukiso, futhi, imisele yenjoloba ye-pervy ehlanganiswe ne-LV monogram futhi yanyatheliswa nge-menagerie yezilwane eziguquliwe ezibhalwe abangani bomklami nabahlanganyeli bangaphambilini u-Jake no-Dinos Chapman.
Kusho ukuthini ukufika ekhaya? Ukujwayelana. Nakuba ungafuni ukubiza leli qoqo lamahithi amahle kakhulu, liye lahlanekezela futhi labhekisela emibonweni uJones ayihlolile phakathi nesikhathi sakhe sokuphatha endlini. Lawo ma-prints kaChapman ayemunye; um-Afrika uhlola enye, eyethulwe ekuqaleni kwayo eminyakeni emihlanu kuze kube yisizini, isiphinde yasebenza namuhla kodwa isabonakala. Lapho iZoo Zoo ye-Chapman izulazula ngokukhululeka, yayiwela i-Vuitton monogram egqugquzelwe ipulani yasekuqaleni yomklamo, owadalwa ngo-1896—umsuka we-monogram, njengoba nje uJones ehlola izimpande zakhe.
Eqinisweni, lolo kwakuwuhambo uJones anquma ukusihambisa ngalo kule sizini—umzila wenkumbulo wehla, owakhe kanye nolukaLouis Vuitton. Izimo zezikhwama zasuswa ngokuqaphela kusukela ezinqolobaneni-i-Steamer yaba ubhaka; isitayela se-'70s-duffel esibizwa ngokuthi i-Randonnee ithole ibhande elisha; Iziqu ze-Valise zaphuma zikhahlelwa nge-springbok noma idube likagesi-blue. Isici sokuza ekhaya siphumele embukisweni ozizwe, mhlawumbe, ufudumele kunokukhishwa kwakamuva kwelebula; ngokuqinisekile komuntu siqu, okuyinto engenakugwenywa uma kubhekwa uxhumano lukaJones ezifundweni eziseduze. Lokho kunikeze umthelela owengeziwe, kumbala ocwebezelayo wokukhanga kobuso. Inikeze ukujula, okukhohlisayo ikakhulukazi uma kukhulunywa ngezihloko ezimbiwe kahle kakhulu ngaphambili.
Ireferensi kaJones namuhla ayizange iphakame kakhulu njengokuphinda kuguqule i-punk. Yabonisa ukuthi ukuvukela kungase kusho ukuthini, endlini yezimpahla zikanokusho yekhulu lama-21. Amashiya azophakanyiswa—kodwa ukuvukela akuwona umbono wezingubo ze-punk ezihuquzelayo, eziphiniwe ngokuphepha ezihlongozwe njengezingubo zabesilisa ze-Vuitton, kodwa umklami unikeze inkululeko yokuzethula. Ezimpahleni zokunethezeka ezigcwala ngokwandayo, yingakho lo mbukiso wagqama.