E-NEW YORK, FEBRUARY 11, 2016
ngu-NICOLE PHELPS
U-Kanye West ubizwa ngezinto eziningi. Ingcweti kwezomculo. Owine iGrammy izikhathi ezingama-21. Inkanyezi ye-TV yangempela. Futhi, yi-USA Today, “iciko elikhulu kunawo wonke ekhulwini lama-21?” Nokho, okungenani iphephandaba lawubuza lo mbuzo. Kusukela namhlanje ntambama, iWest nayo iyisiphazamisi esihamba phambili kwezemfashini.
I-New York Fashion Week ayikaze iyibone into efana ne-Yeezy Season 3. Yebo, kuyasiza ukuthi u-West ungusaziwayo odume umhlaba wonke odume umhlaba wonke, kodwa umbukiso wemfashini ohlakaniphile—iphathi yokulalela ayenzele irekhodi lakhe elisha, i-The I-Life of Pablo, igcwele i-Madison Square Garden emapulangeni namuhla. Iningi labantu abangu-18 000 noma ngaphezulu esixukwini babengabalandeli; ama-scalpers ayethengisa amathikithi ngaphandle, futhi ku-inthanethi ayehamba ngezibalo ezine. (Uma siqhathanisa, uRiccardo Tisci kaGivenchy wayenamalungu omphakathi angaba ngu-800 embukisweni wakhe wangoSepthemba 11 ngesikhathi semibukiso yaseNtwasahlobo yangonyaka odlule.) Olayini bazulazule ezindaweni ezinemvume yokudayisa amadokodo okuthengisa athengisa izikibha nezikibha (ku-$40 kanye no-$90 ngokulandelana, impela ngaphansi kakhulu kwezintengo ze-Yeezy). Futhi akekho omunye umklami, nakuba abaningi bezame ngokuqinisekile, okwazile ukubamba uCaitlyn Jenner njengesivakashi. Ubekhona nomndeni wakwaKardashian, futhi, njengowayeshade naye namadodakazi akhe, wayehlotshiswe ngenhlanganisela ye-Yeezy kanye no-Olivier Rousteing-ezakhiwe i-Balmain.
U-Kanye uphume egqoke enye yalezo zikibha zedokodo lokuthengisa. "Ngizizwa NjengoPablo" ifundeka kanje, umugqa osusiwe emzileni wakhe othi, "Awasekho Amaqembu e-LA." I-inthanethi, ebimatasa iqagela ukuthi ubani uPablo okukhulunywa ngaye—“Ngizizwa njengoPablo lapho ngilungisa izicathulo zami. Ngizizwa njengoPablo lapho engibona ezindabeni”—manje uncike kuPicasso.
Uhlelo lwanamuhla luphawule okunye ukusebenzisana kwaseNtshonalanga nomdwebi wokudlala uVanessa Beecroft. Ngasekupheleni kwengoma yokuqala yerekhodi enomsindo ozwakalayo othi, “Ultra Light Beams,” ipharashuthi elimboze phansi engadini lihlehliselwe emuva ukuze liveze okungeziwe okungaba ngu-1,200 u-West no-Beecroft ababegqoke imibala ye-monochrome—i-taupe, i-ocher. , okubomvu—kwamaqoqo e-Yeezy adlule. Bama, behlukaniswa ngobulili, bazungeza ipheya lamatende ababaleki phezu kwawo ukuthi yimaphi amamodeli, nawo ahlukaniswe ngobulili, ayema futhi ngezinye izikhathi ayehlala ku-Yeezy Isizini 3. Iqoqo lahluka kuZizini 1 kanye Nezinkathi 2 ngephalethi yalo yombala ehlukahlukene, kodwa uma kungenjalo kuhlotshiswe ngezingubo zasemgwaqweni, ukubukeka kwe-athleisure-inflected uhlobo lwaziwa ngakho. Amasudi omzimba, amagiya ezimpahla, kanye nezingubo zangaphandle ezinkulu kakhulu kwakuyizinto ezihamba phambili, nakuba kwakunzima ukubona imininingwane ebangeni lesigaba 117. Ngesinye isikhathi, uNaomi Campbell, uVeronica Webb, noLiya Kebede bavela begqoke ama-leotard amnyama ne-holey, phansi- amajazi ama-mink ubude, ahlanganisa amanye amamodeli wesifazane etendeni elilodwa.
“Ababaleki” namatende benza umfanekiso oshisayo, kodwa owenza izingubo zaseNtshonalanga zaba indawo yesibili embuzweni othi: Ingabe izithombe zokungavunyelwa okunjalo kufanele zisetshenziselwe ukuthengisa izingubo namateku? IWest ayizange ilusukumele lolu daba. Esikhundleni salokho, ngemuva kokuthi i-albhamu isiphelile ukhombise umdlalo wevidiyo okhuluma ngendlela kamama wakhe ongasekho eya ezulwini obizwa ngokuthi i-One kuphela izikhathi ezimbalwa, futhi wahlekisa nge-Yeezy Boosts yakhe. “Ngiqonde ukuthi isicathulo sokuqala, isipho sikaKhisimusi sokuqala. Akujwayelekile." Kwakukhona nalokhu: “Iphupho lami, ngatshela u-Anna [Wintour], ukuthi okungenani iminyaka embalwa ngibe umqondisi wokusungula weHermès.”
Sawubona, waphula Iviki Lemfashini laseNew York. Into eyodwa eqinisekile, uma lona kuwumbukiso wemfashini obheke emphakathini wesikhathi esizayo, sonke sizodinga ama-earplugs.
Ngaphakathi kwe-Yeezy Season 3 extravaganza:
https://d3usbv5mft9tt9.cloudfront.net/output_ads/apple/apple_appletv_thefutureoftelevision-Rev0_15B-low.mp4