Kwafika engqondweni kaSamuel Taylor Coleridge ka-1798 ethi “Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner” njengoba sibona umbukiso kaSarah Burton eThe Arches eSouthwark namuhla. I-Nautical motifs, izidalwa zenganekwane, kanye nokuthunga kwe-Edwardian kukhulume ngohambo oluyingqophamlando olwandle oluvulekile. Umuzwa wengozi oseduze owawuvame ukuvela emibukisweni eminingi ka-Lee McQueen wawudlangile ekukhanyeni okubomvu klebhu esikhaleni njengoba ukuhlebeza okwesabekayo kuzwakala kuphuma kumsindo ongemuva. Njengoba umbukiso we-Savage Beauty usaqhubeka e-Victoria & Albert Museum, kunzima ukuphatha umbukiso wanamuhla ngendlela engokoqobo ngaphandle kokuhlanganisa konke okucashile okuthandana nobumnyama kanye nemibono yokungezwani kwangaphakathi emuva enkumbulweni ka-Lee. Uma umkhondo ubusesimemo, bekunomfanekiso wendoda yomshayisibhakela we-Victorian pastiche enamazwi kaBright Eyes ebhalwe emkhonweni wayo: “Lapho yonke into inesizungu, ngingaba umngane wami omkhulu.” Itimu yokuba uwedwa ileyo evame ukwabelwana ngayo kuzo zonke izindlela zomuntu siqu zikaMcQueen, u-Coleridge, kanye ne-Mariner - futhi futhi iyiculo elicula kakhulu eqoqweni.
Amandla ayo, njengoba bekwenzeka ngesizini edlule, bekunembayo yokusika. Ukubukeka okumhlophe okuvuleka okukhanyayo okufekethisiwe kwe-Victorian esifubeni kwakunanela umgubho ka-Sarah Burton wobungani obudlule Ikwindla/Ubusika. Kuyavunywa, amatilosi namuhla ayebukeka edangele kakhulu, kodwa avula indlela yezingxenye eziya phambili. Ihluzo eziqondisa ukhadinali kanye namahange ahlotshiswe ngamaphijama ahlanganiswe namakholomu okukhipha amapayipi asolwandle; ama-eyelets ensimbi abhoboze ama-peacoat amakhulu; nemithende ye-nautical yayikhishiwe, yahlukaniswa, futhi yadayiswa emasudi esidlo sakusihlwa. Kube nesimanjemanje ekuthungeni esingakaze sikubone esikhathini eside: ama-hemline ayenqanyuliwe, izinkalo ziboshwe, kanye nemininingwane (njengamaphakethe) i-off-kilter eyengeziwe. Umbukiso u-crescendo-ed in the ensembles ezintathu zokugcina ngokuhunyushwa okugcwele igazi kwezilo zasolwandle ezikhangayo ezivela kumamephu we-Medieval wekhulu le-16 nele-17 ebezingavela kalula ezindabeni zikaColeridge. Ijazi le-regency elivale umbukiso liphawule iqoqo ngesikhathi esifanele; ukuhamba bekukuhle kakhulu.
Njengoba kuqhubeka, uBurton uzohlala enefa lika-Lee McQueen eliza phezu kwendlu. Kodwa ubuhlakani bakhe bokudonsa izinhliziyo zabalandeli baka-Lee abashiseka kakhulu, ngokusebenzisa inhlanganisela yobungcweti yokulangazelela nomdlalo weshashalazi, bufanele ukunconywa yibona. Umbukiso wanamuhla ubuyisibonakaliso sekhono lika-Burton lokukhumula izingubo ezivusa imizwa ngokungangabazeki ebeziyitshe lokuhlola eliwujuqu lomsebenzi ka-Lee - okunye ukwenza okubushelelezi okuhambisana nokuma okumangalisayo kwendlu.
51.5073509-0.1277583