Sikwethulela uLouis Vuitton kaVirgil Abloh eParis Fashion Week. U-Virgil Abloh uhloniphe uMichael Jackson, ngesethi ephindaphinda ividiyo yomculi ethi "Billie Jean."
Umkhondo wawusesimemo - igilavu emhlophe eyodwa, egqitshwe ngetshe elimhlophe - nakuba abalandeli abasondelene bakaVirgil Abloh base bebazi ukuthi umbukiso wakhe wabesilisa wasekwindla kaLouis Vuitton wawumayelana noMichael Jackson, isihloko sombukiso wamanje eGrand Palais eParis. .
Lesi sihlabani sezingubo zasemgwaqweni, esinelebula le-Off-White esigcotshwe njengelishisa izikhotha emhlabeni wonke njengamanje, siphakamise isihloko engxoxweni nephephabhuku i-Interview ngoDisemba, sisusa isiko elidala lemfihlo phakathi kwezindlu zikanokusho ngesikhathi - kuze kufike ku-runway displays.
Izihambeli zingene etendeni elimnyama engadini yase-Tuileries, lapho inkampani yayidale kabusha ikhona lomgwaqo wase-Manhattan ebusuku, okusikhumbuza isethi yevidiyo ka-Jackson ethi "Billie Jean" - egcwele ngamatshe ahamba ngezinyawo akhanya phezulu. Izivakashi, ezihlanganisa abaculi be-rapper u-Offset, u-Gunna, u-Kid Cudi no-Skepta, bagoqe esicongweni.
Isethi yetiyela ichaze iphalethi yombala weqoqo, obekuwulwandle olumpunga nokubomvu, olunombala ongajwayelekile wokunsomi nokubomvu - mhlawumbe umbala ohlotshaniswa kakhulu nenkosi ye-Pop.
Phakathi kweziphakamiso zokuthunga ezintsha zika-Abloh kwakukhona amajakhethi akabili - ijazi elifushane elinebhande elinwebekayo eligqokwa phezu kwelayisi elingaphansi elingenamikhono elide - kanye nejakhethi ye-Zoot Suit enezinkinobho ezifihliwe. Ukuthanda kukaJackson imvunulo yezempi kwagxilwa kumasashi aboshwe kanye neziqephu ezimise okwe-crest kuhoodie yekamela ekhukhumele kanye nejazi.
Izingubo zangaphandle, ngakolunye uhlangothi, kwakuyi-swagger ehlanzekile ye-hip-hop. Izinketho zazihlanganisa ijazi lokushela elimpunga elinomfanekiso ophuciwe we-monogram; i-trenchcoat ephindwe kabili ngesikhumba senubuck esiyimpuphu, kanye nevesti elimnyama eligcwele i-Monogram-padded lambskin nesikhwama esifana nesika-Keepall.
Kube khona isixhumanisi esibonakalayo sombukiso wokuqala ka-Abloh weVuitton ngoJuni odlule, ngokuphrinta okungaqondakali okuqukethe abalingiswa abaku-"The Wiz" - inguqulo yango-1978 yethi "The Wizard of Oz" edlala uJackson njengoScarecrow. Iziqongo ezintathu ezigqize nge-sequin zanqekuzisa izingubo zasesiteji zomculi ezigqama kakhulu, kuyilapho isikibha esiphrintiwe esinesithombe sezinyawo zakhe ezigqoke izingubo zokugqoka kanye namasokisi amhlophe sahlonipha ubuhlakani bakhe bomdanso.
Ngempela, ama-loafers ayeyizicathulo zokuzikhethela kulo mbukiso, edlula amateki u-Abloh adume ngawo. Beze ngezinguqulo zeflaneli zesikhumba nezimpunga, zihlotshiswe ngeketango lesixhumanisi alisungulayo njengesiginesha entsha ye-Vuitton. "Kimina, zingaba zinhle futhi zibe zintsha, njengepheya elimhlophe likaStan Smiths," kusho u-Abloh ngesikhathi sokubuka kuqala.
Ngale kwesithonjana sesitayela, wayenentshisekelo engxenyeni yosizo yomsebenzi ka-Jackson, ikakhulukazi "umlayezo womhlaba wonke, ukuhlanganiswa nothando" odluliswa ngamaphrojekthi afana neqembu labaswele elithi "We Are the World". Ngalowo moya, izingubo zesikhumba zeza nge-patchwork yamafulegi amele ubuzwe beqembu lakhe lesitudiyo.
Iphethini yefulegi lase-U.S. yasetshenziswa ngezithombe zethoni eziketini ezigoqayo ezigcotshwe yilanga, okuphakamisa ukuthi ukuhlanganisa kungase kudlulele kanjani kuzincazelo zobulili.
Ngempela, u-Abloh uvule inkundla yokunethezeka yezithameli ezihlukahlukene njengoba akekho omunye umklami ngaphambi kwakhe. Ngokuvuma ngezimpande zezingubo zakhe zasemgwaqweni, wayenomculi we-graffiti u-Futura fafaza isethi ngesikhathi sombukiso, ophinde waveza ama-rapper afana no-Octavian no-Sheck Wes endleleni yezindiza, kanye nengoma ebukhoma ka-Dev Hynes.
I-"Copier c'est voler" ("Ukukopisha kuwukweba") ifunde ithegi esodongeni olulodwa - umlayezo ngokungangabazeki obhekiswe kulabo abasola u-Abloh ngokumane nje akopishe imibono yabanye abaklami. Enye yayifihlwe kumanothi ombukiso ngaphansi kwesihloko esithi “Irony,” ayichaza ngokuthi: “Ukuba khona kukaVirgil Abloh eLouis Vuitton.”
U-Abloh wazi kahle ukuthi abalandeli bakhe abancane abakwazi ukuthenga izingubo aziklamayo i-Vuitton. Lokho akunikezayo, kunalokho, kuyisibonelo okufanele sisilandele.
“Kubalulekile ukuba nobuciko. I-Instagram imahhala. Ngincamela ukuthi ukusebenza kwami endlini kuvule isibani. Akukhona ukuba nobunikazi bento. Kimi, angikwazanga ukukukhokhela futhi - ngangifisa. Yilokho okungenze ngaba nesimilo somsebenzi. Yingakho ngingalali - ngoba ngifuna izinto futhi ngiyazisebenzela,” kusho yena.
Uma ukuqokwa kuka-Abloh kuphakamise amashiya ekuqaleni, kubukeka kubukeka njengokungathi u-LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton wenze ukukhetha okufanele: Umbukiso wakhe wesibili wawujabulisa kakhulu.
Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2019 Paris