Pyer Moss RTW Spring/Summer 2017 New York

Anonim

ngu-NICK REEMSEN

UPatrick Bateman, uGordon Gecko, uBernie Madoff—zonke izingqondo zaseMelika ngokwazo, kungakhathaliseki ukuthi ziyinganekwane noma zangempela. Kwakuyilawo madoda u-Kerby Jean-Raymond aphendukela kuwo nge-Pyer Moss's Spring outing (amanothi ombukiso aze abiza ngokuthi "ukubambisana" noDonald Trump kanye noMadoff). Ngemva kombukiso we-Fall ogcwele izivunguvungu kanye nabezindaba eziningi, uRaymond nethimba lakhe babe nokuncane ukuphila, uma kungenjalo, ngohlelo lwanamuhla; futhi benza.

Ikhwaya lama-soprano ahlezi ngaphambi kokuthi kuqhume iculo ngaphambi kokuba uCyrus Aaron no-Austin Millz bacule, njengoba owokuqala ethathela izinyathelo zengcindezelo eyabe izwakala izwakala ikakhulukazi ezithendeni zehlobo elishisayo neligcwele igazi eliphawulwe ngokuthi. ukushona kukaPhilando Castile, Alton Sterling, nabanye. Isiqephu sika-Aaron setha i-tenor yombukiso mayelana nelungelo namandla, mayelana nalabo, abavame ukuphanga, abambalwa abaphezulu emhlabeni (uJean-Raymond uphinde wahlola uJack Nicholson eChinatown noMichael Douglas kuFalling Down. ). Ukuhlanganiswa kokusebenza nokubonisa izingubo kwakuyinto engenamthungo ngokuphawulekayo; lapho ebuzwa ngokushada nalaba ababili, umklami waphendula: “Ngenza lokho okuqotho kimi. Kwesinye isikhathi kuphuma kukuhle, kwesinye isikhathi kuphume kubi, kodwa ngubani okhipha i-shit?"

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Lapha bekukuhle ngokungenakuphikwa. Izingubo zazibonakala ngemifanekiso evamile yengcebo, uhlobo lwezinto ezisetshenziswa ku-movie ukuze sithumele i-telegraph kithi ukuthi othile uyibhange ngaphambi kokuba sizwe ekhuluma: ama-pinstripe, ama-cufflink, amajakhethi esudi anamabele amabili. Lawo makhodi asetshenzwa kabusha aphinde ashintshwa abe nomthelela ongemuhle, wezemidlalo. Amabhulukwe ama-Twill aqhamuke afakwe ama-toppers esitayela se-Perfecto, futhi imidwebo embalwa yayizwakala inenjongo; ibhantshi elilodwa lomqeqeshi we-satin elifundeka ukuthi Ngicela Ukhulume Kuphela Nommeli Wami laligqame ngokukhethekile.

Kwenye indawo, amawashi egolide amakhulu, e-bootleg ayegqokwa phezu kwemikhono yehembe, futhi amamodeli adlaliswa izicathulo ezinhle kakhulu ngu-Yeezy shoe guru u-Salehe Bembury. Ama-Nikes kanye no-Doc Marten oxford bafike bacwiliswa endwangu ye-silicone ewugqinsi, esibhakabhakeni, esikwe cishe emaphethelweni angaphandle ewoli. Lezo zazisebenza njengesingathekiso esinamandla samahange “sonke esibhekana naso ekuphileni,” kusho uBembury, “kungakhathaliseki ukuthi ngokwezimali noma ngenye indlela, lokho kuyasicindezela.” Nakuba kusukela manje azikho izinhlelo zokukhiqiza izingcezu, bekungelula neze ukubacabanga bephila ngokudayisa; U-Bembury ngokwakhe ukhombe izibikezelo zakamuva zemakethe yezicathulo zezitolo ezinkulu.

Ngaphezu nje kokulahlwa kwamadoda afana no-Madoff kanye nabanye, umbukiso we-visceral kaJean-Raymond namuhla usebenze njengendlela egqokekayo kakhulu yokushaya isithupha ngohlobo lwazo; waze waphrinta isithombe sikaMadoff phakathi nokuboshwa kwakhe phezu kwehembe elinemithende yephini. Bangaki kithi abazimisele ukugqoka inkinobho ebonisa ukufana no-Bernie, noma okuxakayo? Lokho kuzodingidwa, kepha icala likaJean-Raymond, kanye neqoqo lakhe lakamuva, bekuphoqa.

Funda kabanzi