Izingubo zingenabo ubulili ngempela ngenxa yokuwohloka kuka-John Galliano we-Maison Margiela Ready To Wear Fall/Winter 2019 Paris.
I-“Swan Lake” igcwale izikhulumi embukisweni wangoLwesithathu njengoba abalingisi abahlukene bebukisa ingcebo yokuthunga ehlanganiswe nokuphrinta nokuthungwa.
U-John Galliano wenze iphutha lapho exoxa ngeqoqo lakhe lokuwa le-Maison Margiela. Engxenyeni yakamuva ye-"Memory of.. ." I-podcast lapho ehamba phakathi kokukhuthaza kanye nezinqubo ezingena eqoqweni ngalinye, uvala ngomugqa owodwa ozwakalayo ozwakalayo. “Akukhona ngomkhiqizo wokugcina. Uhambo.”
Impela, uhambo lokuhlola, ukutholwa kanye nokufezekiswa lubalulekile, ikakhulukazi kubuciko beqiniso obufana no-Galliano. Kodwa lokhu kuyimfashini, futhi umkhiqizo wokugcina yizingubo. Ukuthi babukeka kanjani entanjeni kubaluleke kakhulu, okungenani kulabo abanentshisekelo ekuhwebeni kwezentengiselwano. I-Galliano's yayinhle kakhulu - inamandla futhi yenziwe kahle ku-minimalism eyinkimbinkimbi ayikhipha ekulayishweni kwenzwa okuphotha ikhanda okwaphawula ukuthi ukuhlaselwa kwakhe kwaba ukuwohloka eqoqweni lakhe likaJanuwari Artisanal.
Kunokuba acubungule ngokuchichimayo okubolile amasizini ambalwa, njengoba kuye kwaba yi-m.o yakhe. nge-motifs edlule, u-Galliano washeshisa inqubo eya ekuxazululeni. Ku-podcast, ukhuluma ngendlela engenakugwemeka yokuwohloka, kusukela ekukhuthazeni ngokweqile kuye ekuboleni ekufuneni ubuqiniso beMillennials obufunayo. Ngokuwohloka, izinto ezibonakalayo zingancishiswa zibe yingqikithi yazo emsulwa, futhi leyo kwakuyindlela yakhe lapha. Ukutholile lokho?
Akugcini lapho. Iculo elithi “Swan Lake.” Wenze njalo uGalliano ku-podcast yakhe, nakuba ulondoloze into eyodwa noma ezimbili, ubungeke ube nolwazi ngaphandle kwe-Cliff Notes yakhe yomlomo. (Ukuxhumana okusobala kakhulu: ijazi elimhlophe elingumcamelo, eligqugquzelwe isikhwama sesandla esisayinwe somkhiqizo futhi lifakwe into efana nekepisi lokubhukuda, eligqokwa owesilisa njengengxenye yempi kaGalliano yokungathathi hlangothi kobulili).
Iqoqo lalimayelana nani ngempela: izingubo ezinhle, ezinenzalo enkulu, ezikhishwe ku-cacophony ye-couture's ngokweqile, zabonisa ngokuziqhenya izakhiwo zazo zobuciko.
Ngokuvamile lokhu kwakuhlanganisa ukuthunga komthungi, okwakusebenza njengento yokuhlobisa kanye nesikhumbuzo sekhono eliphakeme elihilelekile ekudaleni lezi zingubo. Uhlu oluningi lwalumnyama, luthungatha, lunophawu lwethonya le-Yohji kuma-silhouette aqinile aklanywe ngezingubo zokugqoka zamadoda zakudala, ama-flannel kanye nama-herringbones.
Ukugxila bekuku-silhouette, kanye naleyo ndlela eyakhiwe kabusha eyakhiwe kabusha u-Galliano yokuguqula ijazi leflaneli libe ingubo noma ibhulukwe lokugibela libe ibhusi nesiketi.
Kodwa futhi kwakumayelana namathuba okuguqula izinto ezithile zokwakha: indlela ihlombe elitshekile lejazi le-Crombie elizwakalayo elimnyama lakha i-tapered dome shape; noma ukuthi umkhono wendwangu ehlukile kanye nokulinganisa okuyihaba, isikhathi eside futhi sigcwele kunalokho okulindelekile, amajazi aguquliwe namajakhethi kusukela ku-classic kuya kumfashini; noma indlela indwangu yenkundla yesokunxele ethathe ngayo i-trope ejwayelekile endaweni ethile entsha. Ijakhethi ye-puffer emnyama engaziwa? Uyabheja, ku-chiffon ephothiwe phezu kombhede omhlophe, ogqokwe phezu kwejazi le-Mackintosh elimnyama.
Nokho leli qoqo bekungelona nje elokuhlubuka. Okunye kubukeka kusebenze umehluko omkhulu, i-motif eyethulwa ngokubona ebuhleni bengubo, i-neoprene emnyama ngaphambili kanye neleyisi empunga ehlotshisiwe ngemuva. Iphuzu: isiko eliqeda uzinzo, futhi u-Galliano wangena ngokunamathisela amaphaneli aphrintiwe agqamile aneflamingo ephinki eshisayo (hamba ngapha, wena ma-poodle aluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka) ngaphambi kwengubo ye-herringbone namajazi angemuva namajakhethi. Futhi yini engokwesiko kakhulu kunejazi le-tweed likaHarris labesilisa? Ngu-Galliano kuphela owayinquma ejazini elifushane, eliyibhokisi, iphaneli yangemuva ehlotshiswe nge-flamingo ifana nebhulukwe le-jacquard eliqina isikhumba namabhuzu esikhumba, futhi igqokwa indoda endaweni yonke yase-Galliano engenabo ubulili.
Isimo sezulu sisonke besinokuzola okunamandla, kodwa phakathi kwalokho, u-Galliano wagcona, ngezinye izikhathi ethatha izingubo nezithameli zakhe bajabule. Umuntu angakwazi ngempela ukuthenga ekusesheni kwakhe ukuze athole ubuqiniso ekuwohlokeni; akekho uchwepheshe ukwedlula yena emicabangweni yemfashini ejulile. Noma umuntu angamane ezwe injabulo yokuthola lelo jazi eliphelele ukuze alithenge ekwindla elilandelayo futhi abe nalo phakade. Kungakhathaliseki ukuthi yikuphi, uhambo luka-Galliano nomkhiqizo wokugcina kufanele nakanjani uhambo.