U-Virgil Abloh wenze isiteji sokudlala esihlola amatimu okuhlonza uhlanga nokwabiwa kwamasiko.
Ubani othola ukufuna ubunikazi besiqephu sengubo? Umbuzo uVirgil Abloh asala ezibuza wona ngemuva kweqoqo lakhe lokugcina likaLouis Vuitton, kulandela izinsolo zomqambi waseBelgium uWalter Van Beirendonck zokuthi waklebhula eminye yemiklamo yakhe - izimangalo u-Abloh aziphika kakhulu.
Kwenza u-Abloh acabange mayelana nokwabiwa kwamasiko, kanye nombono wakhe wokuklama njengentsha Emnyama e-U.S. "Ngakhula nginomuzwa wokuthi ukuklama kwakungekona okwami, ngoba ngangingaboni muntu ofana nami ekwakhiweni," esho.
Kunalokho, ulimi luka-Abloh lwendabuko “lwaluyinto evamile: izinto ezitholakala kalula, ezingaklanyelwe. Izingubo ezazisesitolo sami sesaphulelo, lezo aziklanyelwe, kanye nezingubo ezisemgwaqweni owubukhazikhazi, lezo ziklanywe. Ngakho-ke leyo yimfundo yami yemfashini.”
Izingubo eziyisisekelo zezingubo zezingubo - isudi yebhizinisi, ijakhethi yedenim, ijazi le-duster noma i-jeans - kwakha isisekelo sokuwa kwakhe kwe-Vuitton. Kodwa ngisho nama-archetypes angathatha i-slant yezombusazwe lapho ebhekwa nge-prism yobuhlanga. Ezweni elingaboni imibala, ubukeka kanjani umfundi, noma umthengisi, umnikazi wegalari, umakhi wezakhiwo?
Umbuzo wasekela isethulo sakhe esigxilile, esihlanganisa izici zezinkondlo ze-slam, ukufundwa kwezingoma, ikhonsathi, ukufakwa kobuciko - kanye ne-ice skating. Ithuthukiswe ngomculi uJosh Johnson, lo mqondo ugqugquzelwe "I-Stranger in the Village," indatshana yango-1953 kanoveli uJames Baldwin.
Ekuqaleni wawuklanyelwe udlalwa bukhoma, lo mdlalo waqoshwa ngaphandle kwezivakashi ngenxa yemikhawulo eqhubekayo eklanyelwe ukunqanda ukusabalala kwe-COVID-19.
Owayemile njengomlingisi u-Baldwin kwakuyinkanyezi ye-"Slam" uSaul Williams, olethe ukusebenza kazibuthe. Isigcawu sokuvula sambonisa egqoke ijazi elimnyama ezulazula endaweni yentaba eneqhwa, ngaphambi kokudlulela kumabula esimanjemanje ngaphakathi kweTennis Club de Paris.
Amadoda agqoke amasudi amahle adlula njengoba indoda ilele iqulekile phansi, igqoke njengabo. Engomeni yomsindo, imbongi yaseBrithani uKai-Isaiah Jamal yahlabelela: “Njengabantu abaMnyama, njengabantu abashintshashintshayo, futhi njengabantu ababandlululwayo, umhlaba ulapha ukuze siwuthathe, ngoba kuthatha okuningi kithi.” Uhlelo luvalwe ngendlela emnandi edlalwa umrepha uMos Def.
Izingubo zifundeka njengezinhlobo ezithuthukisiwe zamasilhouette ajwayelekile: isudi empunga yaguqulwa yaba nokuphrinta kwemabula ye-trompe-l'oeil, kuyilapho amajazi enwetshwa ngendlela emangalisayo ukuze alandele phansi. "Ngangifuna ukwenza izingubo ezijwayelekile, kodwa ezithuthukisayo, ukuze zibe yizobuciko, noma umzila wesitimela, noma umhleli," kusho u-Abloh.
Umklami uye wakhuluma kaningi ngomthetho wakhe “wamaphesenti angu-3”: ukulungisa umklamo okhona ngamaphesenti amathathu nje ukuze uwuguqule ube into entsha. Kuyindlela emdalule amacala okukopela, akholelwa ukuthi anezwi eliphansi, njengoba abaklami abamhlophe beboleka kwamanye amasiko.
Ephendulela amatafula kubagxeki bakhe, u-Abloh wanquma ukukhomba i-Black design motifs okungenzeka ingabonakali kumasiko aseNtshonalanga. Izindwangu ezihloliwe, ezisetshenziswa ezingutsheni zangaphandle noma iziketi ezinemiphetho enjenge-kilt, zenze ibhuloho phakathi kwe-Scottish tartan nendwangu ye-kente egqokwa uyise waseGhana ngezikhathi ezikhethekile.
Izindwangu ezinephethini, ezihlanganisa i-monogram motif yembali yesiginesha ye-Vuitton eduze kwamaphiramidi namabalazwe omhlaba, zazisekelwe ezindwangu ze-wax ezinohlonze ezazithandwa ngumama wakhe.
"Njengoba ngingomunye wabaklami abambalwa bemibala ebonakala ohlelweni lwaseParis, ngandlela thile, ngingumuntu obonisa ukunyakaza kokuhlukahluka," kusho u-Abloh. "Angifuni ukuthi lezo zinto zibe umzuzwana nje."
Ukuze agcizelele iphuzu lakhe, umklami, owenze amagama acashuniwe uphawula isiginesha yelebula yakhe ye-Off-White, uthephe iciko lomqondo u-Lawrence Weiner ukuze akhe amagama ayimfihlakalo afana nokuthi “Ndawana thile ngandlela thize,” avela kumabhande ezikhwama nezikhafu.
U-Louis Vuitton wethule i-Fall-Winter 2021 Collection ka-Virgil Abloh e-Paris ngoJanuwari, zingama-21.
Ifilimu ka-Virgil Abloh kanye nethi 'Moved by the Motion'
Ukuphawula isikhwama sakhe sokubamba samasilhouette ahlelekile najwayelekile kwakungukwakhiwa kwe-trompe-l'oeil, okufana nendawo ephezulu eyenziwe kabusha nge-3D yezikhumbuzo zaseParis njenge-Notre-Dame cathedral, kanye nochungechunge lwezingubo emthunzini wesikrini oluhlaza ofundeka njengamazwana abi. ezimpilweni zethu zokuvalwa kwedijithali - futhi kwaqinisekiswa ukuthi kuzovela ku-Instagram.
Njengoba amanothi eqoqo ayeminyene kakhulu, ayedinga iziqu zezifundo zamasiko, umbukiso wawuhlanganisa izinselele abaklami ababhekene nazo namuhla: indlela yokubhekana nokushintsha okuthandwa ngabathengi, ukubhekana nokuhlukahlukana, ukugaywa kabusha futhi ngandlela thize kunqamule umsindo?
“Kunesikhathi esingakaze sibonwe sokucabanga,” kucabanga u-Abloh. "Ukwenza umbukiso ngo-2021 kuhluke kakhulu kuno-2020 no-2019, ngokuqinisekile. Kudingeka ukucabanga okuningi ngami ukwenza okuthile ngesisindo namandla adonsela phansi, kodwa futhi mayelana nokuvalwa kwamafekthri, noma isifiso sokuhlala esimisweni, futhi ngenze okuthile ngobuciko. "
Ngalowo mqondo, umbukiso wekwindla ka-2021 umaka iphrojekthi yakhe yokufisa kakhulu kuze kube manje, futhi waqinisa indima yemikhiqizo yemfashini njengabakhiqizi bokuqukethwe kwamasiko. Nakuba kungaba nzima ku-Abloh ukuthi afune ikhredithi kuphela ngomzamo, uma kubhekwa inani labahlanganyeli bobuciko abahilelekile, kwakuyiphuzu ngqo lelo.
UMCULO: Isikolo Sangempela Sefilimu kanye Nomculo Wombukiso
Ukuqondiswa ngu-Asma Maroof Louis Vuitton
Isiqondiso Somculo ka-Benji B
Music Guest Stars: yasiin bey & Saul Williams
I-Saxophone & Flute: Tapiwa Svosve
UCello noPiano: Patrick Belaga
Izigubhu: Mathieu Edward
Ihabhu: Ahya Simone
Ukukhiqizwa Komculo Okwengeziwe kaDaniel Pineda
Izinkondlo ezengeziwe zika-Kai-Isaiah Jamal
Bonisa Umqondo & Nedizayini Yendawo: PLAYLAB
I-Creative Agency: Yiba Izitudiyo Ezinhle
Izinwele: Guido Palau
Make-up: Ammy Drammeh
Idizayini Yezithombe: Studio Temp
I-Art Direction & Research: Mahfuz Sultan & Chloe Sultan
Ukukhiqizwa kombukiso wemfashini: La Mode en Images Fashion Services by KCD
Kudlalwa nguSamuel Ellis Scheinman, uPiergiorgio Del Moro;
Sisizwa u-Arthur Mejean. 'Ishukunyiswe Ukunyakaza' Iphethwe ngu-Nadja Rangel kwa-Outofocus Management.