I-Orangerie Férou e-Jardin du Luxembourg yamukela i-Berluti Menswear Spring/Summer 2020 Paris.
Umbono ka-Kris van Assche wesimanje wokuthunga uhunyushwe waba i-ode yokufaka umbala ngesikhathi kwethulwa iqoqo le-Berluti eParis. Njengengxenye yokungena kwakhe kokuqala ekwakhiweni kwabesifazane, izimpaphe nemininingwane.
U-Kris Van Assche uvule uhlelo lwakhe lwe-Berluti ngesiqeshana somsindo somlingisi u-Anna Karina efunda izinkondlo ku-movie kaJean-Luc Godard, futhi wayivala ngo-Gigi Hadid ehamba umgwaqo egqoke isudi eluhlaza engenamikhono efakwe izimpaphe zentshe. Ukusho ukuthi umklami ube nokuyenga engqondweni ukukubeka kancane.
Ekhuluma endaweni engemuva kwesiteji ngemuva kombukiso, obuseOrangery eLuxembourg Gardens eParis, uVan Assche uthe uyalele umqondisi wabalingisi uPiergiorgio Del Moro: “Ngilethele amantombazane amahle kakhulu emhlabeni, ngoba umhlaba udinga ubuhle.”
Kuyasikhumbuza ukuthi uBerluti uhamba phambili njengomthungi wezicathulo wabesilisa, futhi ngaphezu kwalokho ungumhloli wezingubo zamadoda. Ayinakekeli abesifazane, okwamanje. Kodwa selokhu aqala ukucula le ndlu ngoJanuwari, uVan Assche useze wafaka amamodeli wesifazane emkhankasweni wokukhangisa ukuze achaze indoda yakhe yaseBerluti.
“Kuwuphawu lwamadoda, akungabazeki, kodwa futhi kumnandi ukudlala ngokuyenga ukuze wenze le ndoda yaseBerluti ibe mnandi kakhulu kunalena ebengisebenza ngayo phambilini. Lokhu sekukhulile impela, ”kusho umklami wangaphambili we-Dior Homme.
Phakathi kwezikhali zakhe zokuyenga kule sizini kwakukhona uhlobo olushaqisayo lwengcebo ecashile, ngendlela yokubukeka kwethoni ngemibala egcwele, nezingcezu zesikhumba ezidaywe ngemibala ecebile yama-patinas kaBerluti, noma eziqoshwe nge-Scritto - i-motif yombhalo wesandla wangekhulu le-18. nge-telegraphs ukuvela kocezu, kodwa kucashile kunelogo.
UVan Assche uxegise amasudi ngamabhulukwe agelezayo noma izikhindi zaseBermuda, futhi wadlaliswa ngokulingana ngokusika imikhono emajakhethini ngamaphedi amahlombe, noma ukuhlukanisa ibhulukwe elingaphambili ukuze umlenze ube mude.
Waqhubeka nokuhlola kwakhe ifa lenkampani ngokusebenzisa amakhanda ezinzipho njengomhlobiso ongaphezulu. UVan Assche uthe wathola lo mqondo ngokuvakashela indawo kaBerluti “manifattura” esezingeni eliphezulu eFerrara, e-Italy, lapho ebone khona abathungi bezicathulo bebambe izipikili emilonyeni yabo.
I-Berluti Fall/Winter 2019 Paris
Ayecwebezela emigqeni eminyene esuka esikhwameni esineketango lezithuthuthu eliwugqinsi, futhi ayegcwele uthuli phezu kwesudi yesikhumba esinsundu sepatina, iphakethe le-fanny nezicathulo ezicijile. “Kumayelana nesiko kanye nokuba yisimanje. Ngiyenqaba ukucabanga ukuthi uBerluti kufanele abe nje ngokunethezeka okungaphelelwa yisikhathi,” kusho uVan Assche.
Okufanele uBerluti abe ngakho, ngezinga elithile, incwadi evuliwe. Abanduleli bakhe, u-Haider Ackermann no-Alessandro Sartori, ngamunye wabomba ifa lomkhiqizo ngendlela yabo. Umbono kaVan Assche uzodinga isikhathi ukuze ubambe, kodwa labo besifazane babebukeka sengathi kukhona abaphezu kwakho.