Emasontweni amabili edlule, uDomenico Dolce noStefano Gabbana babehlela ukukhombisa iqoqo, elibiza ukuba khona ngokomzimba kwabantu abavela eduze nakude. Lapho ukulinganiselwa kokuhamba kuba endleleni, abaklami bawuchitha lo mbono futhi bawenza kabusha yonke into. I-Dolce & Gabbana eguquliwe oyibona kulo mzila wezindiza—ethathwe e-Milan ngaphandle kwezithameli—iwumphumela wenqubo ejabulisayo yokuklama i-marathon ephindaphindwa ngegama elilodwa: ukuzenzela. “Ikhona entsha?” Enikela ocingweni uGabbana eqhulula uhleko.
Bekhuthazwe i-e-boy/e-girl motif eyazisa ngokungananazi amaqoqo abo e-couture kaDisemba, abaklami banqume ukungena bonke.
Iqoqo beliwumfanekiso wezizukulwane ezikhula ezinkundleni zokuxhumana, umphakathi wedijithali ophula umngcele owakhiwe ekuzivezeni ngokuzenzakalelayo.
U-Gabbana ube ngowokuqala ukuvuma ukuthi ukugqoka okucacile ku-inthanethi okufana ne-digitized pop futurism yena no-Dolce abethula namuhla akuyona into eveza ikhabethe lakhe.
Futhi abathumeli izithombe ozishuthe zona ku-Instagram, benze iziqeshana zokudansa zasekhaya ze-TikTok, noma benze noma yini oyenzayo ku-Twitch. “Angiyona ingxenye yawo ngoba ngineminyaka engu-58; Angina 25. Ngivele ngibuke ngaphandle.
Kodwa mina noDomenico sifuna ukwazi kakhulu ngakho. Okusha njalo kuvela kwabancane. Umsebenzi wethu wukubanaka.” Lesi bekuyisimemo sengxoxo yesizukulwane. “Bonke abasizi bethu baphakathi kuka-20 no-30. Mina noDomenico, siyizikhukhukazi,” kuhleka uGabbana. “Ngaso sonke isikhathi, usuku lonke, sibabuza ukuthi bacabangani ngezinto, bazozigqoka kanjani, bazocabangani uma intombi yabo iyigqokile. Sikhuluma kakhulu.”
Ukuzamazama kwentsha kwale sizini eMetropol bekungelona nje ukuzivocavoca kwe-hip motif nokwelashwa kwendwangu, kodwa bekuwushintsho olucatshangelwe lwe-silhouette olungakaze luzizwe luphelelwa yithemba.
Babuphelile ubunono bebhulukwe elicijile elisikwe eqakaleni lase ligqokwa nge-loafer kanokusho; esikhundleni sabo, abaklami baguqule amakhono abo okuthunga asezingeni eliphezulu emugqeni omude osuthulwe ngokuzenzakalelayo emphethweni.
Ama-Blazers azizwa ekhululekile. Abanye baze bashintsha bagqoke izingubo zokusebenza. Bekunombala omuhle kuDolce & Gabbana.
Inkululeko yokuzazi abaklami abayibona ezisebenzini zabo ezisencane ibakhumbuze eyabo iminyaka yama-20, lapho amadoda angaphansi kwamasiko ephikisana ne-conservatism yama-1980s ngayo yonke i-varnish yezinzipho, i-lipstick, kanye ne-quiffs eyayidingeka ukwenza isitatimende.
Ungase ulandelele ukufana ebusweni obugcwele bezimonyo obuhambise umbukiso njengokuthile okuphuma emkhankasweni wobuhle wama-'80s-kodwa kubafana. (Vala amehlo akho, Candace Owens!)
“Lapho sipenda izinzipho zabafana futhi sigcoba imikhankaso yethu ye-D&G ngeminyaka yawo-1990, saba nezinkinga eziningi ‘nejaji elikhulu.’ Ooh!” UGabbana ukhumbule, ebhekise kubalawuli bezokukhangisa base-Italy. "Besivuleleke ngokuphelele ekukhululekeni."
Gabbana
Manje kancane mayelana nobulili, ukuziveza kwentsha “kuyazenzakalela, kudume kakhulu,” ephawula. Kuyiqiniso ikakhulukazi ukuthi izizukulwane zenkundla yezokuxhumana zamukela ngokukhululekile futhi zivumelanise izinkomba zemfashini zangaphambi kokuba ziphile.
Thatha njengesibonelo amakhodi angunaphakade e-D&G, ulayini wokusabalalisa ogoqa umhlangano wama-'90s kanye no-'00s, kakhulu—futhi ngokungazi—ovuswe ezimpahleni zasemgwaqweni zanamuhla. “Okunye kwalokhu kungikhumbuza izingcezu ze-D&G. Sizwa umuzwa ofanayo manje njengalapho sidala i-D&G. Yizikhathi ezimbili ezihluke kakhulu, kodwa kukhona okufana kakhulu,” kusho uGabbana.
Uma sibheka emuva ku-D&G namuhla, ukungahloniphi kwayo kupenda okuthile okuhlukile ekugxilweni okuqinile kobuciko base-Italy, i-amore e bellezza, namathonya angapheli aseSicilian ahlanganise umsebenzi kaDolce & Gabbana kule minyaka eyishumi edlule.
Ngokubukeka, leli qoqo libonise ukuziphendukela kwemvelo okufika ngesikhathi kusuka kuleyo ndawo, kodwa naphezu komsindo wombukiso ka-Justin Bieber kanye nokuvela kwevidiyo evela ku-Sia, ukuguqulwa kwabaklami akuzange kuzame ukuvala ukuhlakanipha okuzuzwe ngokukhula.
Phakathi kokukhanya kwe-kaleidoscopic, i-puff, kanye ne-iridescence eyenza inhliziyo yomfana ithandeke kakhulu, bacaphuna iqoqo elinezimpawu zezingubo zamadoda eziyigugu—amajazi asabekayo, amasudi apetshisiwe asuka ezindwangu zakudala ze-Sartorial—kanye namakhanda angenangqondo ukuya emlandweni wemfashini.
Ibhantshi le-bouclé, ngokwesibonelo, livuse isithonjana semfashini saseParis, kuyilapho isikhwama esikhulu esingunxande sidonse ingqondo kuleso somuzi wamahhashi.
Kuyinto endala ukusho, kodwa uma kubhekwa impilo entsha ngokuqhathaniseka kwe-rave-y okukubeke kuhlaka, lezo zingasoze zabuna eziphelele beziheha kakhulu. (Ukubukeka okukhethiwe sekuvele kuyatholakala ku-Farfetch.) "Kuhle ukukhombisa lesi sizukulwane esikwaziyo," kusho uGabbana.
“Sikhule kakhulu kusukela ngeminyaka yawo-1990: ukuthunga, ubuciko, lolu hlobo lomsebenzi. Sisebenzise le mibono esizukulwaneni esisha. "
Gabbana
Buka umbukiso wemfashini owethulwe ngokukhethekileyo ne-#farfetch kanye nokusebenza kokugcina kuka-#sia.
KuDolce & Gabbana, abakhiphe amaqoqo angaba ngu-10 ngonyaka odlule kuphela, leli lalihlukile; umnyakazo ongalindelekile owazwakala njengesiqalo sesahluko esiheha ukuhlola. "Okungihlaba umxhwele wukuzenzakalela kwabo," kusho uGabbana egcizelela isizukulwane senkundla yezokuxhumana. "Nganginjalo eminyakeni yami engu-20, kodwa ngilahlekelwe ngenxa yobudala." Angazi, Stefano—iqoqo lakho liphakamise okuhlukile!