UDemna Gvasalia ukhombise iqoqo elimangalisayo athe liyindlela kubantu abasebenzayo, yize abanye bebona umsinga wezepolitiki.
“Phakamisela ingilazi yakho kubantu abasebenza kanzima,” kucula uJoan Baez eminyakeni eminingi edlule. U-Demna Gvasalia wayenabantu abasebenzayo emqondweni wakhe lapho eklama iqoqo lakhe le-Balenciaga - nalapho elikhombisa kumgwaqo wezindiza ngeSonto ekuseni. Iqoqo, amanothi ohlelo lwakhe afundeka, "licabanga kabusha ukugqokisa umsebenzi: ukugqoka amandla, kungakhathaliseki ukuthi umuntu wenzani njengomsebenzi."
Ukuze aveze iphuzu lakhe, ukulingisa kwakhe okuhlukahlukene kwakuhlanganisa abantu abavela emisebenzini ehlukahlukene kanye nepheshana lezemfundo, noma ngabe, ngokungafani nezinhlobo zika-Joan zikasawoti womhlaba, umugqa kaGvasalia wawushwibeka kakhulu ikhola emhlophe (unjiniyela wemishini, umlingani ozimele, umfundi wezomthetho), futhi ngokuvamile ubuciko (umdwebi wezakhiwo, i-gallerist, i-stylist, i-violinist). Futhi yebo imodeli, ngaphandle uma intombazane ekuleyo velvet getup echotshoziwe eyayiyingubo emfishane ngaphambili kanye nezikhindi zebhayisikili ngemuva imane nje iyiringer kaBella Hadid. Abaningi kulo mdlalo babengabangane bakhe.
Bahambe ngendlela ethokozisayo, enezitezi ezine zengqungquthela efana ne-elliptical efana ne-Gvasalia efakwe ezitudiyo ze-movie i-La Cité du Cinéma, yonke into embozwe ngevelvet - amakhethini asuka phansi ukuya ophahleni, ukhaphethi, izihlalo ezingamakhulu eziya phezulu. Kwenziwe nge-EU eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, isikhala sazizwa sinamandla, simema futhi sinomkhosi ngesikhathi esisodwa; umuntu angakucabanga njengendawo yenkomfa enkulu.
Eqinisweni, kwakunokuningi okwenzeka endaweni eyindilinga yeGvasalia, futhi abanye ezilalelini babona ukubhuqa kwezombangazwe zase-U.S.: izingubo zamandla - i-Ivanka; izingubo zangaphandle ze-diva - i-Melania; amapaki akhukhumele kakhulu - uDonald Trump oqhakaza.
U-Gvasalia ubengeke avume ukuthi asikho isiqephu esinjalo (yize asho ukuthi uke wafunda isitayela sesithombe ebesingalindelekile, u-Angela Merkel). Kunalokho, engxoxweni yangemva kombukiso, uthe umyalezo wakhe wawumayelana nokugqoka umfaniswano. “Kufana nemfashini kimina,” enikela. "Njengoba, ngizama ukucabanga nokwenza lo mfaniswano wobuhle."
Kuphela kwakukhona ukufana okuncane kuhlu olukhulu lwemibono ephoqelelayo, evame ukugqama enikeza abesifazane nabesilisa, kusukela ekuthungeni okupholishiwe kuya kwezingubo zokusebenza kuya kwezingubo zebhola. Khona-ke futhi, uma ngokuthi “umfaniswano” wayeqonde ubunikazi be-Balenciaga obucacile abelokhu ethuthuka kusukela efika, wayekhona ngobuningi bakhe - egqoke izingubo zasemgwaqweni eziphakeme, athe azifile futhi azivamile, kodwa manje isiyingxenye yemfashini. ; ekubukiseni nasekusetshenzisweni kwamalogo, futhi ikakhulukazi ngevolumu, enkulu, enkulu, enkulu kakhulu. Waqala ngamasudi alula kwabesifazane nabesilisa ngokulingana okuvulekele izincazelo ezimbili - imfashini noma i-frump. Akunjalo neze izingubo ezimfushane, ezisikwe ngokunemba zika-boss kanye namasudi esiketi anamahlombe ngaphandle - akudingekile kuphela. U-Gvasalia udale umugqa nge-corsetry boning esusekayo, evumela ihlombe ukuthi liwele kulokho umuntu acabanga ukuthi kungaba i-arc edonswe kancane.
Ukufeza lokho, phakathi kobudlelwane bakhe bobumo obudlulele kanye nefa likaCristóbal Balenciaga, uGvasalia ufuna ukuba ngumnikazi futhi aqhubeke nokuphusha, “ngokusemandleni akhe mayelana nokuhlolwa kwevolumu: esho. "Yilokhu enginomuzwa wokuthi umgomo wami umayelana ne-Balenciaga, ukuqhubeka nokuzama umthamo."
Futhi hhayi nje ngosuku. I-Gvasalia ibonise izingubo zebhola ezimbalwa ezinkulu, iziketi zazo ezinganyakazi phezu kwama-crinoline amakhulu, amise okwensimbi. Babukeka - futhi babonakala bentanta - njengamakhosazana e-Disney agqwayizayo, kodwa esikhundleni salokho bagqugquzelwa yisithenjwa sangaphambili sikaCristóbal esisekelwe emdwebeni waseSpain.
I-Balenciaga Ilungele Ukugqoka Ekwindla/Ebusika 2019 Paris
Nokho axegise ama-crinoline, iziketi ziwele kulokho akubiza ngokuthi “ingubo ye-A-line neo-Gothic. Bengifuna ukwenza okusha ngayo,” kusho uGvasalia. Cabangela ukuthi sekwenziwe, kwelinye lamaqoqo athakazelisa kakhulu, amasha esizini.