Ngosuku olwandulela i-Art Basel Miami Beach, uKim Jones wethule iqoqo lakhe lesibili lendawo eyandulela ikwindla, esebenzisana nomunye wabasunguli be-cool, u-Shawn Stussy ngokwakhe, futhi ethula iphrojekthi yakhe ye-Air Jordan, i-Air Dior. Umphumela? I-retro groovy surfer enambitha i-couture.
Ukubukeka Kwe-Dior Men Fall 2020 Miami
UKim Jones uveze umbukiso wakhe wesibili wendawo ngoLwesibili ngokuhlonishwa kwefa laseMiami kanye nesiko lokuntweza eliphuphile eliphinde lacatshangelwa ngelensi ye-Dior. Umklami owaziwa kusukela ku-Day One ukusebenzisana namaciko, kusukela e-Kaws kuya ku-Daniel Arsham kanye no-Raymond Pettibon, uJones wethule iqoqo langaphambi kwekwindla lika-2020 ngobusuku bangaphambi komunye wemibukiso yobuciko nemiklami emikhulu kakhulu emhlabeni, ngaphesheya komgwaqo I-Rubell Museum entsha, ngobusuku bangaphambi kokuba ivulelwe umphakathi. Ngokwesiko likaMnu. Dior, okwakubalulekile kuye ukutholwa kobuciko, u-Jones wachaza kabusha umqondo wozakwethu weciko ngokumema u-Shawn Stussy njengomhlanganyeli oholayo weqoqo.
“Uyiciko. Kusetshenziswa umuntu obengalindelekile,” kusho uJones. “Lokhu akwenziwa ngezinjongo zezohwebo - lokhu kuwukwanelisa wena, ngandlela thize. Lokhu ngithulela isigqoko kumuntu ongenze ngacabanga ngokuba umklami.”
Ngomunye wemibukiso emikhulu yangaphambili kwinkumbulo yakamuva, uJones udonse izivakashi ze-VIP ezivela kuKim Kardashian noDavid Beckham kuGwendoline Christie, Kate Moss kanye no-Orville Peck. Izithameli zazihlezi ngaphakathi kosilingi ogobile, zilingisa igagasi elalizophuka, eliqinise umlayezo we-surf adlalwa uJones ezingutsheni. Ilogo ye-Dior, ecatshangelwe kabusha ngu-Stussy, yaphrintwa ezindongeni nasophahleni, yacwilisa wonke umuntu emizweni ye-Sixties groovy.
Umbukiso wavula ngesibonelo esicacile sokusebenzisana kuka-Jones-Stussy: Ijezi le-cashmere eliphrintiwe ngokwengqondo laligqitshwe phezu kwakho kokubili ihembe lesimanjemanje nehembe lakudala, elibhangqwe nezikhindi eziyisikhwama zebhodi kanye nebharethi yesitayela sesiFulentshi. Kodwa imilayezo ebuhlungu yasekelwa ukwethulwa kwe-Air Dior, ukusebenzisana kuka-Jones no-Air Jordan: ama-high-tops ane-iconic swoosh eyenziwe kulogo ye-Dior yakudala. Umdayisi oshisayo oqinisekile kukhasimende lezingubo zasemgwaqweni eziwubukhazikhazi.
Amanye amathonya engqondo ahlanganisa ihembe lehembe elinobuhlalu obunemibala ehlukahlukene elinomuzwa wesizwe, isethi yephijama emibalabala emibalabala kanye nezikhindi ezifakwe ngosilika ocekeceke, okuhloswe ukulingisa amakhola agqokwa abatshuzi ngeminyaka yama-Seventies.
"Yonke into uShawn asinikeze yona, siyikhuphulele kusici se-Dior couture sezinto," kusho uJones. "Ngoba ngimbuka ngempela njengomculi."
"Ngazizwa njengengxenye yeqembu - ukude," kusho uStussy, owakha umsebenzi wobuciko ngoyinki omnyama ephepheni elimhlophe. “Babe sebeyiqhumisa, bayifaka imibala, bawelula, bayibeka ngobuhlalu, futhi kimi ingxenye ethokozisayo ukuthi babefuna ngenze umuzwa wami wobuciko, base bewuyisa ezingeni le-couture lokukhiqiza kanye namasu. . Futhi leso kube ngesinye sezizathu esenze ngasayina ngokushesha.”
Izikhathi zokugqoka zendabuko ezengeziwe zamadoda zazihlanganisa ijazi le-cashmere elinebhotela elithambile, nepensela elincanyana kanye nokuthatha okusha kwesudi etshekile enamabele amabili - enye yezinto ezithengiswa kakhulu zomkhiqizo. Uma kuqhathaniswa nobuhle bomfana omuhle kwakuwukusetshenziswa kokuphrinta kwe-python, okwenziwe ngezikhindi ezimfushane zesikhumba namahembe kanye namajazi emoto esikhumba, konke okucwebezelayo okunensimbi evuma ngekhanda injabulo eyengeziwe ye-Miami.
I-Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2020 Paris
Esikhathini esifushane ku-Dior, uJones uye wathuthukisa ngempumelelo isilulumagama esisha sokugqoka kwamadoda esizukulwaneni esincane esibekela inselele imingcele yokugqoka kwamadoda, okwenziwa ngamasu e-couture. Kodwa ngaleli qoqo, uphinde abuyise omunye wabasunguli be-cool, umzamo ohambisana nomthengi wanamuhla owazi kakhulu othanda ukungaphelelwa yisikhathi nokuthambekela.