I-Chanel Pre-Fall 2015 Salzburg
U-Karl Lagerfeld walunguza ku-roll yekhamera ku-iPhone 6 yakhe futhi wakhanyisa isithombe esisanda kutholwa: Umklami waseJalimane esengumfana egqoke i-lederhosen. “Ngiseyingane ngangingagqoki lutho olunye,” ephakamisa amahlombe.Amabhulukwe esikhumba agqugquzele isikhwama esisha se-Chanel esinesihlathi, impukane ebheke phambili ishintshe ibe isikhwama esinoziphu esingenza ukudoba i-lipstick kube umsebenzi oheha ukungaboni.
“Kufanele uvume ukuthi kuyahlekisa, emngceleni wokungcola. Kodwa kunengqondo impela, ”kusho uLagerfeld ngenjabulo ngesikhathi ebuka kuqala iqoqo lakhe lakamuva leMétiers d’arts, elibizwa ngeParis-Salzburg.
Ngokunikeza impilo entsha isitayela se-Alpine, i-Lagerfeld idlulisela phambili ifa legama lendlu uGabrielle Chanel, owathola ugqozi ngomunye wemiklamo yakhe evelele nehlala isikhathi eside ku-trim ehlukile, ijakhethi enamaphakethe amane egqokwa umqhubi we-lift we-Salzburg's. okukhethekile Mittersall ehhotela. Umnikazi wayo ngaleso sikhathi, u-Baron Hubert von Pantz, wayeyisithandwa sika-Chanel eminyakeni engamashumi amathathu, futhi ukubuyela kwakhe kulesi sikhungo emashumini amabili eminyaka kamuva kwaba yinhlanhla enkulu.
"Eminyakeni yama-Fifties, wabuyela lapha, yileyo ndlela abona ngayo leli bhantshi futhi empeleni yilokho ijazi le-Chanel lazalwa," kuchaza uLagerfeld ngoMsombuluko njengoba ebeka ukuthinta kokugcina eqoqweni. "Ubheka i-Chanel eminyakeni yamashumi amabili nantathu futhi kwakungekho lutho olufana nalokhu."
U-Lagerfeld wenze umbukiso elanda izinguqulo ezintsha zebhantshi le-Chanel - kanye nesiphepho seqhwa samajezi namabhulawuzi anamagwebu - phakathi nemibukiso emithathu ye-runway esigodlweni sase-Rococo i-Schloss Leopoldskron. Lo mbukiso udonse izinto ezijwayelekile ze-Tyrolean, ezithuthukisiwe zesimanjemanje, wangena esigabeni semfashini samazwe ngamazwe.
"Kwenziwe kahle kakhulu, ukuthi baxuba kanjani isiko endaweni ethile nomoya weChanel," kusho umlingisi u-Àstrid Bergès-Frisbey. "Kukhona ukubukeka kwalo lonke uhlobo lomuntu wesifazane."
Ngaphambi kombukiso, ama-VIP nabahleli bathwebule izithombe zesaluni enkulu enezindawo zomlilo zemabula ezilengayo, ovulanda bensimbi abakhandiwe kanye nethala elibheke ichibi elinganyakazi, elimpunga ngokuluhlaza. I-Woodsmoke evela engadini yavuza ekamelweni, yengeza ekuhlobiseni kwasebusika kwamatafula agcwele amakhukhisi, amawolintshi agcwele ama-clove nezithelo zokuhlelwa okusikhumbuza imidwebo yekhulu le-17.
“Kuhle, futhi kunemininingwane eminingi,” kumangele uBergès-Frisbey, ozilungiselela indima yakhe elandelayo, njengoGuinevere kuGuy Ritchie elithathelwe ethi “Knights of the Round Table.”
“Siqala ukuqopha ngoFebhuwari, ikakhulukazi e-England,” kusho yena. “Kushube kakhulu. Ngiyalungiselela."
Umlingisikazi waseJalimane uMavie Hörbiger, ohlala e-Austria, uthe ukuhlasela kweChanel kwakuyisenzakalo esimangalisayo: “Ukuba nemfashini eSalzburg, akuyona into evamile kubantu base-Austria.”
Umbukiso kaLagerfeld usize ekuthungeleni isizini yangaphambi kwekwindla ngokuthatha okuhlotshiswe nge-hyper ku-conservative chic: Izinkanyezi ze-Crystal ezicwayiza ku-prim, i-ivory cardigan eboyeni obubilisiwe; i-edelweiss ehlotshiswe phezu kwe-suede leggings; namaribhoni aguqulwa abe imikhono emikhulu, ecikizekile ejazini elimangalisayo elenziwe ngezimpaphe, ukunqekuzisa ikhanda ku-falconry okwenziwa izicukuthwane zase-Austrian zakudala.
“Kumnandi kuye, cha? Yilokho okuseduze ongakuthola ku-dirndl, ”kusho uLagerfeld ngenkathi uLara Stone engena egqoke ingubo ekhanyayo ye-taffeta emnyama ene-apron efana ne-apron ephethwe ngama-ruffles. “Angifuni ukuba kubukeke ‘njengeNdlu Encane Esigodini.’” (Nakuba kamuva lo mfanekiso wawungase ubonwe engadini ejikeni lokhuni elilenga egatsheni lesihlahla, indodana yakhe ewusana ikhala ngokujabula ethangeni layo. )
Kwakukhona ama-winks embusweni wase-Austro-Hungarian, futhi, uLagerfeld waphawula, lapho ukucutshungulwa okwengeziwe kweleyisi, ama-ruffles, namaribhoni kwakuyimodi ye-la la.
“Ngiyawuthanda umoya,” kusho umklami. “Angifuni ukwenza noma yini i-folkloric. Lokhu kungaphezu kwephupho. Kufanele kube ngesimanjemanje, kufanele kube okwanamuhla, izilinganiso, yonke into.”
Uma sikhuluma nje: Amagoda e-Heidi alinyazwa abe ama-earmuffs axakile, kuyilapho lawo mabhulukwe ayehunyushwa ikakhulukazi njengezikhindi zedenim ezikhahlelayo, ezithungwe ngemifekethiso yama-curlicue.
Umbukiso wavula ngochungechunge lwamajakhethi avuthayo, afana ne-cape anomluko owenziwe ngegolide noma ama-velvet trim. U-Lagerfeld usebenzise imithelela ye-cape efanayo kumajezi e-turtleneck, izingubo zephathi, kanye namakepisi agcwele umsindo agandaywe ngezimpaphe ezingavamile.
I-ode ka-Lagerfeld eya ku-Mitteleuropa yashwibilika phakathi kwe-homespun - izimbali ezicijile zisuka ku-embroidery hoop zaphonswa lapho amaphakethe aluka u-Chanel ngokuvamile ahlala khona - ukuze kube nokushibilika, njengamabhulukwe eflaneli amahle anemigqa ephothiwe kanye namashekeli ambozekile anamachashaza egolide noma isiliva.
Ukugqokwa kwakusihlwa bekukhethekile, izimvemvane nezimpaphe ziwela ku-chiffon eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, kanye nemikhono yombhishobhi ekhukhumele enezela ukuthinta kothando ezingutsheni ze-satin ezimnyama ezinombala ogqamile we-dirndl.
Ngesikhathi sokukhothama kwakhe, uLagerfeld uhlwithe i-pretzel etafuleni wayinika uCara Delevingne, owalunywa wabe eseyiphakamisela phezulu njengebhola ngemuva kokuthinta phansi.
Cishe amakhasimende angu-220 angcono kakhulu e-Chanel, kuhlanganise neqembu elikhulu elivela eYurophu ekhuluma isiJalimane, ehlela kuleli dolobha elihle, elaziswa ngesikhungo salo somlando, indawo yezinganekwane, i-opera nezigodlo ezifana neLeopoldskron.
“Kuhle kakhulu. Ingenye yezindawo engizikhonzile eYurophu. Ngiyayithanda ingadi. Uma ingekho inkungu uyakwazi ukubona izintaba,” kusho uLagerfeld. Waphawula ukuthi eminyakeni engu-26 edlule wadubula umkhankaso weChanel ngemodeli u-Inès de la Fressange esigodlweni, omunye wabokuqala wendlu yaseFrance.
“Ngangivame ukuza lapha kakhulu,” kulandisa umklami. “Ngize ngaqashisa ngezindlu kule ndawo. Ngiyayithanda iSalzburg, ngiyayithanda le ndawo.”
NgoMsombuluko ebusuku, izihambeli zihambele isidlo sakusihlwa e-St. Peter Stiftskeller, esikhokhiswa njengendawo yokudlela endala kunazo zonke e-Europe futhi efakwe esigodlweni sezindela. Ngaphambi kokuthi wonke umuntu azinze esidlweni sezifundo eziyisikhombisa esivulwe nge-tartare ye-fawn, i-potato rösti ne-plum chutney, umklami wethule isiqeshana sevidiyo esiyimizuzu eyisikhombisa esinomculi othi “Happy” u-Pharrell Williams njengalowo mfana ophakamisa i-ultra-chic kanye no-Delevingne njengomdlali. ukuphindukuzalwa kuka-Empress Elizabeth wase-Austria, odume ngelikaSissi.
“Kungenzeka yini ukuthi kube intombazane ezongisiza ngibone (CC) umhlaba,” uWilliams croons engomeni yokuqala ayiloba njengeqembu nomodela, osezingeni lokulingisa nomculo.
Izinto ezikhangayo ezisemaceleni ongakhetha kuzo phakathi nalolu hambo lwe-Alpine zihlanganisa izimakethe zikaKhisimusi ezidumile zase-Salzburg namakhonsathi omculo wendodana edume kakhulu yedolobha, u-Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.
Izihambeli embukisweni wemfashini zishiye isikhwama esiqukethe ukuphrintwa kabusha kwe-“Der Rosenkavalier,” i-opera yamahlaya ka-Richard Strauss esekelwe ku-libretto yoqobo yesiJalimane ka-Hugo von Hofmannsthal, kanye nokuhumusha kwayo kwesiNgisi kanye nephothifoliyo ye-beribboned yemidwebo ka-Alfred Roller yezimpahla zokugqoka kanye namasethi okukhiqizwa kwe-1910.
Njengoba uke waba yinxusa lamasiko, u-Lagerfeld waze wanxenxa izivakashi ukuba zibone amathreyi ezibiliboco zasendaweni, okuhlanganisa u-Kaiserschmarren, ikhekhe eligayiwe eliqanjwe ngombusi wase-Austria uFranz Joseph I, uWilliams aphinde wazalwa efilimini ehambisana nombukiso.
“Kufanele uyinambithe: Yinto engcono kakhulu emhlabeni,” kunxusa umklami.
Iqoqo le-Métiers d'art, iwashi lenzuzo enamadijithi amabili, limelela ingxenye ekhula ngokushesha yebhizinisi leChanel namuhla, ngokusho kukaBruno Pavlovsky, umongameli weChanel fashion.
"Kuningi okuqukethwe, futhi amakhasimende ethu athanda yonke le micabango ezungeze umkhiqizo," esho. "Maduze izoba ngokubaluleka okufanayo njengeqoqo lika-Okthoba noma likaMashi."
Yethulwe ngo-2002 ukuze kuthuthukiswe abathengisi abakhethekile uChanel ephethe, okuhlanganisa nochwepheshe waseScottish cashmere uBarrie kanye nenkampani ye-tweed yaseFrance i-A.C.T. 3, okuthengiwe kwayo kudalulwe ngoMsombuluko, iqoqo laminyaka yonke le-Métiers d'arts manje selisekelwa umkhankaso wezikhangiso ozinikezele - owaseSalzburg uzokhombisa u-Delevingne noWilliams - futhi uphathwa kuzo zonke izindawo zokuthenga zenkampani yaseFrance eziyi-189, kanye nase- mayelana 100 khetha okukhethekile izitolo.
Ngokuthengisa okunamagwebu, uPavlovsky wancoma ukulethwa kwangaphambi kwesikhathi - maphakathi noMeyi kuya eMelika kuqala, kwalandelwa iYurophu kwase kulandela i-Asia maphakathi noJuni - kanye nendaba eqinile ngemuva kweqoqo, ngayinye iveza isahluko esisha emsebenzini onemibalabala we igama lendlu. U-Chanel uye e-Dallas, e-Shanghai, e-Edinburgh nase-Tokyo ukuyobonisa ulayini omusha.
"Amakhasimende ethu, ajwayele ukubona ama-silhouette amasha nezinto ezintsha endaweni yezitolo njalo ezinyangeni ezimbili," kusho uPavlovsky. “Ngaso sonke isikhathi, kunokuningi ongakusho ngempilo yakhe - okwangempela nokucatshangwayo. Lokhu okuqukethwe okokwakha i-Chanel yakusasa.”
Engxoxweni naye egumbini elibekwe ngamapulangwe elibheke echibini elake laba yihhovisi likaMax Reinhardt, umqondisi wemidlalo yeshashalazi owaziwayo kanye nomsunguli weSalzburg Festival, uPavlovsky waphawula ukuthi osekulungele ukugqokwa yisigaba somkhiqizo okhula ngokushesha kakhulu eChanel, futhi esilungisiwe. kanye nezitolo ezikhulisiwe, zonke ezenziwe ngumdwebi u-Peter Marino, zizokwamukela ukukhetha okubanzi kwemfashini.
I-Chanel isanda kuthutha isitolo sayo saseVienna, okuwukuphela kwesikhungo sayo sase-Austrian, ngenxa yalesi sizathu, futhi muva nje yenza okufanayo eHamburg naseFrankfurt. I-Dusseldorf ilandelayo.
Ngenkathi uhla lwe-Métiers d'art selufake amanani ezindaweni ezintsha - amajazi angafika kalula ku-$25,000 - uPavlovsky uphawule ukuthi kukhona izinto ezithengekayo, futhi. "Akuwona umbuzo wentengo, kungaphezulu mayelana nenani lale mikhiqizo," esho.
Ebuzwa ukuthi amaqoqo e-Métiers d’art - ngokuvamile agqugquzelwa indawo efana neRussia, i-India, noma iTurkey - ayazwakala yini kulezo zimakethe ezithile, u-Pavlovsky uphendule: “Iqiniso, asibheki nokubheka. Ukuxoxwa kwezindaba kwaseDallas kwakunamandla eShayina naseJapane njengoba kwakunjalo eMelika.”
Nokho ukuba khona kukaLagerfeld e-Austria, izindaba ezisekhasini lokuqala emaphepheni ahlanganisa i-Salzburger Nachtrichten kanye ne-Kronen Zeitung, kanye neqoqo lakhe le-Chanel ngokuqinisekile lizosakaza ifa lemfashini namasiko lesifunda.
U-Lagerfeld, owafaka i-loden blazer ngesikhathi ehlala, ubize amazwi acashunwe esikhathini esedlule: “Izizukulwane ziyafika zidlule, kodwa u-lederhosen uzohlala njalo.”
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