Ngaphambi kombukiso we-Valentino Menswear Fall/Winter 2020 Paris, amamodeli afika e-Paris' Place Vendome.
Ku-catwalk ingubo yabesilisa engalindelekile ene-Art touch ye-Inez ne-Vinoodh kanye no-Melanie Metranga kanye nelebhu yokuhlanganyela ne-Onitsuka Tiger. Futhi i-cherry ekhekheni bekuwumdlalo obukhoma we-fkatwigs.
"Indlela yothando yokuchaza kabusha ukuthunga, indlela ye-atelier yezingubo zomgwaqo"
U-Pierpaolo Piccioli uchaza iqoqo manje le-Valentino.
Okufushane kokugqoka inhliziyo yakho emkhonweni wakho, imbali nayo izokwenza ubuqili. Kube khona ezothando emoyeni embukisweni we-Valentino, lapho u-Pierpaolo Piccioli asakaza ukuqhakaza okukhulu kuma-silhouette akhelwe kahle, njengoba i-FKA Twigs iqinisa inhliziyo yakhe esiteji esincane.
Umbono we-monochrome we-silhouette yesilisa ye-Pierpaolo Piccioli ihlasela iqoqo lasebusika lika-Valentino e-Paris Fashion Week, yamukela i-baggy silhouette, igeyimu yesimanjemanje ye-urban layering kanye nokusebenza kwe-chic kwe-typography ukuze kuqinisekiswe isiphakamiso esisebenzayo nesimanje.
Ama-motifs ezimbali athathwe ezinqolobaneni zezithombe zika-Inez van Lamsweerde noVinoodh Matadin, futhi asebenza ngezindlela ezihlukahlukene: ukufekethiswa kwethoni ngethoni ngejazi likamkhulu elimpunga; I-brocade enemibala epaki ye-khaki wool-and-silika, noma i-3-D appliqué engutsheni yekamela.
I-Valentino Spring/Summer 2020 Paris
Izimbali ezimnyama nokumhlophe zahluma ejazini elimnyama nasesudini, zombili zaklebhula eceleni ukuze kube lula ukunyakaza, ijazi lilenga ibhande elide lamehlo. Bekuyingxenye yesenzo esisha sika-Piccioli sokuthunga isizukulwane esikhuliswe ngezingubo zomgwaqo.
"Kuwukubonakaliswa ngamadoda kanye nombono wokuthandana kwamadoda namuhla," echaza ngesikhathi sokubuka kuqala. "I-Romanticism imayelana nokukhuluma komuntu siqu." Kuphinde futhi kumayelana nokwamukela uhlangothi lwakho lwabantu besifazane, uhlelo luphakamisile, njengoba i-FKA Twigs yethula ukukhulekela kwakhe okungokowesifazane kuMary Magdalena.
Nakuba izingubo zokuphola zakha ingxenye enkulu yebhizinisi lamadoda e-Valentino, u-Piccioli ucabanga ukuthi sikhona isikhala sobuhle obuyinkimbinkimbi - hhayi nje ehhovisi noma izikhathi ezikhethekile. “Nginomuzwa wokuthi ukuthunga izingubo kungase kwehluke: kuzwela kakhulu, kungabi nomfaniswano omncane,” esho.
Isibonelo salokhu: ukusebenzisana kwakhe nomdwebi uMélanie Matranga, omisebenzi yakhe ehlanganisa amagama amakhulu kakhulu anikeze iziqubulo ezinamekwe emahembeni, amajazi namajazi. “Sithandwa Esibi,” kumemeza izinhlamvu eziyisipoki ejakhethini yedenim ebhulashiwe. “Need Need,” kupela ama-sequin amhlophe ehembeni elimhlophe qwa.
U-Piccioli ulethe indlela yokudlala efanayo ezimpahleni zangaphandle, ehlanganisa amajakhethi esikhumba mbumbulu noboya be-boucle obunemibala egqamile obunikeza ubuso ukuthungwa okuguquguqukayo. Akuzona zonke izivivinyo zakhe eziphumelele: i-anorak eningi, eyenziwe ngezindwangu zezindwangu zobuchwepheshe kanye noboya bokuthunga, yayingeyona inhlanzi noma izinyoni.
Akukhona ukuthi kwakubalulekile ngempela: ngemva kweminyaka yokubusa kwe-catwalk, izingubo zezemidlalo zaziyingxenye yombukiso. Esikhundleni salokho, ukukhanya kwakuqondile ekugqokeni. Ngenkathi egcwele isudi entsha, u-Piccioli wenza i-casi enamandla yamandla ezimbali.