Abantu bengqephu bahlezi bebhuqa ubuchopho ngokuthi yini eyenza imfashini ihambisane, kodwa akekho ofana noDemna Gvasalia ngokungenisa izethameli esimweni lapho isimo sezindaba zomhlaba singaluma khona. Ubeke iqoqo lakhe le-Balenciaga Spring enkundleni yezepolitiki—“iphalamende noma umhlangano” mbumbulu wase-Balenciaga, ayewubizile ukuze aphenye ngesihloko “sokugqoka amandla nemifaniswano yemfashini.”
Ngakho lapho sasihlezi, ehholo uGvasalia wayevale udonga olusuka odongeni ngombala ongekude nohlaza okwesibhakabhaka lwefulegi le-EU, ukuze abuke ucwaningo lwakhe lwedizayini yezenhlalo yesakhiwo semithetho yokugqoka yanamuhla. Izihambeli eziphezulu—abesifazane nabesilisa abathunga izingubo, iqembu eliqinile, elingaziwa, elifaneleka ngokufanayo—bavule umbukiso. Babengobani? Emaphaketheni abo asesifubeni kwakunamabheji afekethisiwe, amadiski amabili ahlukaniswe kabili anophawu lwe-Balenciaga—isakhiwo esingahlukile kumklamo we-Mastercard.
Kwabe sekufika lokho uGvasalia akubiza ngezingubo zomkhankaso. “Sibheke izithombe zosopolitiki besifazane, begqoka bekhankasa. Sathatha lolu hlobo lwezingubo zosuku ezithungiwe sazama ukulenza lipholile—okungeyona inselele elula, uma sikhuluma iqiniso,” usho kanje. Isixazululo sakhe kwaba “ukubenza babe yi-boxy and cocoon-y, okuyi-Balenciaga impela. Izinhlobo eziningi zomzimba zingagqoka. Amavolumu entando yeningi futhi okulula ukuwagqoka. "
Ngaso sonke leso sikhathi iculo elinamandla, elishaya ngamandla, elilingana nezempi, le-movie ethusayo laligcwalisa isikhala, lixutshwe ngu-Loïk Gomez, umlingani kaGvasalia. Abalingiswa abalingiswa—abaqanjwe kulo mdlalo njengodokotela, abameli, abadwebi begalari, onjiniyela kanye namamodeli angochwepheshe—babelokhu beza. Lapho ubhekisisa, kulapho wawubona khona ama-cheekbones axhumene nokufakelwa, izindebe eziqhunyiswe phezulu. Kwakwethusa ngobuqili.
Ukuhambisana, emqondweni ka-Gvasalia, kuyizingxenye ezilinganayo zokuqaphela lokho abantu abakugqokayo nokugxila ekudaleni okuthile ngandlela thize okuhlobene nefa lika-Cristóbal Balenciaga. Lokho kusiyisa ezimpahleni ze-crinoline khona kanye ekugcineni—cishe iphupho likapopayi lengane kuma-silhouette abo agqamile. “Izingubo ze-ballroom zibuyela ekuqaleni kwe-Balenciaga, lapho [uCristóbal] eqala eSpain. Ikakhulukazi bekulolu hlobo lwesithunzi alwenza, kusukela kumdwebo waseSpain,” kuphawula uGvasalia. “Kodwa besifuna ukwenza isiqiniseko sokuthi ziyagqokwa. Uma ukhipha i-crinoline, unohlobo oluthile lwengubo ye-goth. "
Maphakathi, kwakukhona ingxenye yenkathi yobukhosi, enamahlombe amakhulu kanye nemfashini ekhazimulayo eyayihambisana nabaxhasi be-couture abacebile ngowoyela kuyo yonke leyo minyaka edlule. Benzani ama-avatar abo ka-2020, elandela amaphaseji wamandla namuhla? Asikho isidingo sokuphendula lokho.
Sezwa uvalo, sabona izingubo. Okunye kwakho—ibhulukwe lezemidlalo ijezi, amabhulukwe e-motocross, namajakhethi akhiwe ngendlela efanele—kubukeke sengathi kuzohambisana naleso sizukulwane esisha sabathengi besilisa abafuna ukuthuthukiswa kwesitayela kuma-hoodies. UGvasalia uzwa ukushintsha komphakathi lapho futhi.
I-Balenciaga Ilungele Ukugqoka Entwasahlobo/Ehlobo lango-2020 e-Paris
Ebuzwa ukuthi ngabe ulithatha yini leli qoqo njengeliyingxenye ehambisana nesimo kanye nokucija iqiniso, ubuye nempendulo ethinta ngaphezu kwezinkinga zakhe zedizayini (izingubo ezilula ukuthi uzizwe unamandla kuzo) noma ukulingisa komuntu okuhlukile: “Iqiniso. ? Angicabangi ukuthi iba ngokoqobo ngaphezu kwalokhu. ”