Kusukela kwethulwa isiza sakhe se-e-commerce, uJeffrey uthe ukuthokozela kakhulu ukuqopha imininingwane yokuthengisa ukuze aqonde ukuthi amakhasimende akhe afunani ngempela.
U-Charles Jeffrey ubheke ngqo ebumnyameni ngeqoqo lakhe lakamuva. “Isikhathi sokuzindla nokwamukela iqiniso lokuthi … kwesinye isikhathi uba nale mizwa sh—y,” esho.
Kusukela umzuzwana ukuya ekuhambeni - i-manifesto ezithombeni eziphukile
Lo mqulu ubhalwe ngoyinki ongabonakali, le nkondlo yephrozi izoqhuma. Amabhulashi ashile emhlane wakho, othayi abalandelanayo besele abasiliva, amafindo aluniwe okukhishwa ngokuthinta komzimba. Ubuso obukhazimulayo ebumnyameni. Ake sibethelele le jeli odongeni. Bamba “umoya ngaphambi kokugxuma”.
Ubumnyama bumayelana nokuthula, ukuthula kwesithombe sika-Irving Penn, se-daguerreotype, somdwebo we-vanitas: isithelo siyabola futhi wonke umuntu uyaqaqamba ngenxa yokubamba i-pose, kodwa kulokhu kulindelwe kukhona injabulo. Umzuzwana ngaphambi kokuthi 'ikhethini phezulu' leluliwe, limiswe, likhulelwe amandla.
Kulokhu kuthula kukhona nokunyakaza. Izingubo ziyaqoqwa ukuze kuphakanyiswe ukuwa kwendwangu, ukuqaqa, ukuhlehliswa okuzayo: zihlezi zisonqenqemeni lokuncibilika phambi kwamehlo omuntu. I-tartan ene-threadbare, ekhushulwe ebumpofu, intekenteke, iyashintshashintsha, iyisipoki futhi icacile. I-façade yaseCorbusian iveza ukuphazamiseka ngaphakathi.
I-AUTUMN/WINTER 2021 ‘GLOOM’
Uma iqoqo lokugcina lika-LOVERBOY belikhuluma ngokuba nethemba nokuzama ukuba nethemba, umnikelo wakhe we-AW21 umayelana nobhubhane olufika ekhaya.
“Bengifuna ukuxhumana nobumnyama esibuzwa sonke,” esho. Wenze ucwaningo ngemidwebo kaDkt Seuss yaphakathi kwamabili - "ehluke ngokuphelele ezindabeni ezinikeza ithemba adume ngazo" kusho umklami owayesephinde waba nothando lukaDavid Lynch futhi wathatheka ngomsebenzi kaLouis Bourgeois wendwangu.
Lokho kuhlanganiswe ne-groundhog grind of Lockdown, kwamholela ekuhloleni amakhona akhathazayo nakhathazayo engqondo futhi abonise umuzwa wokuba sengozini eceleni kwesiginesha yakhe yokuziqhenya. Uvamise ukuthatha amaphrinti namaphethini aluniwe emidwebeni yakhe ecacile, kodwa kulokhu, izithombe ezinyakazayo ezivela kufilimu yamazwibela ka-Thurston Redding ifilimu ehlanganisa umdansi u-Kate Coin, zaphrintwa kumasilika namahembe angaphandle.
Ku-AW21, i-Loverboy tartan yakhe iphushelwe ekuqineni okweqile nge-PU coating, iyenze ibukeke njengesikhumba. Yabe isiphushwa yaba ntekenteke kakhulu imicu yancibilika yaba umphetho ocolekile. “Indwangu nokuthungwa kuthwala ubunikazi,” kusho umklami, ebonisa ukuthi izindwangu zingapeshiswa. Wakuhlanganisa nombono “wokulungisa imizwa ephukile,” owawuphambili emqondweni wakhe njengoba siphuma ku-Lockdown.
Uhlobo lwakhe lwazalelwa eklabhu yaseDalston iVogue Fabrics, kodwa amakilabhu avaliwe isikhathi esingaphezu konyaka manje. Ukuvalwa okujwayelekile ngoLwesihlanu noma ngoMgqibelo ebusuku komklami uchithwa ehlezi ekhaya nesoka lakhe futhi edlala ngezimonyo. Uthi: “Ngihlale ngicabanga ngendlela okuphulukisa ngayo ukuba segunjini eligcwele abantu bonke bedansela ingoma eyodwa. Njengoba nje amakilabhu afana ne-Vogue Fabrics enza umsebenzi obalulekile womphakathi, ngokwenza indawo yabantu emphakathini wama-queer, ngakho-ke uJeffrey ufuna uhlobo lwakhe lube ngokwakha indawo nokuphakamisa abantu. I-Loverboy ngeminyaka yawo-2020 izoba yindawo eshisayo yaseWarholian, eyakhelwe ekusebenzisaneni nomuzwa womndeni, enabaculi abahlala khona kanye nomqondo wayo womphakathi. Uphume ebumnyameni, ungene ekukhanyeni.
Umqondisi wokuqamba - Charles Jeffrey (@mrcharlesjeffrey)
Umthwebuli wezithombe - Thurstan Redding (@thurstanredding)
Isitayela - Matthew Josephs (@matthew_josephs)
Izimonyo – uLucy Bridge (@lucyjbridge) we-M.A.C Pro (@maccosmetics)
Izinwele – Eugene Souleiman (@eugenesouleiman)
Setha - Andrew Lim Clarkson (@andrewlimclarkson)
Ukusakaza – uMadeleine Østile & Aamo Casting e-CLM (@aamo_casting)
Izicathulo - I-bv exhaswe nguDkt Martens (@drmartensofficial)
Ukwenza ngokwezifiso izicathulo - Natacha Marro (@natachamarro)
Ubucwebe bezobuciko - Andrew Logan (@andrewlogangallery)
I-Movement Direction – Kate Coyne (@katecoyne68)
Amamodeli (ngokulandelana kokubukeka) - Jasper Leigh (@jasperleigh_), Lotte O'Rourke (@lottepottehotte),
Qi Han (@q.qihan), James Potter (@waltdisco), Linnea Skoglosa (@linneaskoglosa),
Omolola Onasanya (@omogirl__), Luke Magill (@whitetrashtray);
Isithombe sokugcina siphinde sibe no-Niall Underwood (@niallunderwood).