U-Humberto Leon noCarol Lim, amanxusa aseMelika eFrance, bahumusha izwe labo lendabuko endaweni eyodwa yesiFulentshi ngesikhathi. Ngemva kokunikeza inguqulo yabo ye-California evamile ngesizini edlule, abaqondisi bobuciko be-Kenzo bathuthela ePacific Northwest for Fall. "Ngesikhathi sihlala eBerkeley, sasivame ukuya enyakatho, futhi sasichitha isikhathi esiningi kulezo zifunda ezihlukahlukene," kusho uLeon. “Kunendlela ethile yokugqoka kuzo, indlela yasesinema ngempela. Uma ucabanga nge-Americana, leyo ndawo ihlale idlalwa ngayo.”
Bazakhela esabo itshe lesikhumbuzo esifundeni—ngokwezwi nezwi, uma kubhekwa ukuthi umbukiso wawuhlanganisa amafreyimu aluhlaza ezindlu, futhi i-motif yokuhlobisa engutsheni nasezicathulweni kwakuyizinto zensimbi “zezilo zamathuluzi.” Abazange bathandeke ngokushesha amahlosi e-Kenzo noma amehlo amabi abe yizindondo zamasizini edlule, kodwa banikeze ingozi esize ekumiseni lokhu kukhiqizwa kwesinema ku-spectrum ye-PNW creepiness endaweni ethile phakathi kukaGus Van Sant noDavid Lynch. .
Izingubo ezigqoke umbukwane wabo wasesinema bezimnyama futhi zicwebezela ngaphezu kokujwayelekile: amabhantshi anezinkinobho ezine asikwele okhalweni, ama-knitwear anqanyuliwe, namabhulukwe aqondile aphezulu anemibala yodaka namaqabunga aphansi ehlathini. Abaqambi bathe bazonaka kakhulu ukusebenza kwayo yonke isiqephu, kusukela ekufudumaleni kwe-puffer ephansi kuya ekubambeni kwebhuthi enesoli enkulu. Ingabe yilokhu kugcizelela okusha okwenza ukuqulwa kwecala kube nomoya ongathi sína wokuzicabangela kunangezinkathi ezithile zonyaka ezidlule? Awukwazi ukupela “umsebenzi” ngaphandle kokuthi “ubumnandi,” kodwa lokhu kwehlise i-Kenzo pop obekuyisiginesha yemvuselelo yayo ngaphansi kuka-Leon no-Lim. Ngaphandle kwakho, imiphumela ibingeyona eyayo ngokuhlukile njengokujwayelekile; lapha nalaphaya kwangena umoya wePrada.
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