Ukubukeka kwe I-Lanvin Ilungele Ukugqoka Ikwindla/Ubusika 2020 eParis . UBruno Sialelli ushaye igxathu lakhe ngokugxila ekugqokeleni impumelelo, nokunye okuningi okukhangayo.
Amamodeli aphume enephunga elimnandi lesiqholo esiyimpuphu, edlula amakhasethi amahle e-Manufacture des Gobelins, umdwebi wezilenge zaseFrance ezinhle kakhulu kusukela yasungulwa uLouis XIV njengenye yezindlu zokuqala zikanokusho. Umuntu wayengathakathwa kanjani?
Indlu kaLanvin inomlando ohlaba umxhwele ngokulinganayo, yiqiniso, yasungulwa ngowesifazane ozenzele yena.
Ngakho-ke isinqumo somklami uBruno Sialelli sokuzicija ngokugqoka ukuze aphumelele ngamakepisi esikhumba e-jaunty; amajazi e-curvilinear abukeka esimanje kanye namajakhethi e-peplum e-makeup shades phezu kwamabhulukwe noma ama-miniskirts; phrinta izingubo ze-floaty calligraphy ezisezingeni eliphansi, kanye nezingubo zakusihlwa eziphefumulelwe ngamashumi amabili, konke okuboniswa ngokuthinta okusemthethweni kwesandla esinamagilavu kanye nesithende esiwuhlaka "J". Umphumela waba owesifazane owakhangayo kodwa ongazange ayekethise yena noma ukunethezeka kwakhe.
Ukuthunga abesifazane kubonise ukubuya kwale sizini ku-classicism, kodwa ngokupholile ngokwanele ukuyinika imali yesimanje - bona ihadiwe yelogo entsha ye-Arpege kamama nendodakazi emaphaketheni e-flap ebhantshi, kanye nangaphezulu kwamabhuzu emoto. Isitayela se-loafer sase-Belgian, ama-mules ama-wedge angeze enye ingxenye ye-bourgeois flare, njengoba kwenza amabhande asekhanda e-sci-fi (hhayi u-Lady Di).
Izingubo zakusihlwa ezilinganisa amasilhouette esimanje anokuthintwa kokuhlobisa, njengakubhotela eliphuzi eliphuzi elingenamikhono le-godet minidress elinebhande lomnsalo eliyikristalu elijikijela ngemuva, kanye ne-slipdress yobucwebe efinyeleleka ngekhola yosiba ekhishwayo.
Izesekeli eziningi zazibukeka sengathi zingaba imayini yegolide ethengiswayo, okuhlanganisa nama-minaudières asesimweni samabhodlela amakha, i-lipstick kanye nama-powder compacts abingelela esinye sezinqumo zebhizinisi ezihlakaniphile zikaJeanne Lanvin, ukusungulwa kweLanvin Parfums ngo-1924.
I-Lanvin Menswear Fall/Winter 2020 Paris
Esikhathini esingaphezu konyaka selokhu athatha izintambo njengomqondisi wobuciko, u-Sialelli uphumelele igxathu lakhe ngaleli qoqo, egxile kakhulu kulokho, ngamanothi amangalisayo amagugu, ukugqokwa nokufiseleka, kanye nokuvusa ukuthinta kwesiFulentshi. Futhi wakwenza nge-runway cast eyayihambisana nesidingo sanamuhla sokubandakanya (yeka umehluko kumamodeli ama-Saint Laurent azacile), okudlala u-Bella Hadid, uMaggie Rizer no-Paloma Elsesser.
Njengoba u-Nick Jonas esanda kugqoka ijakhethi yetilosi lendlu eNew York (ukugqokwa kwamadoda kuqhubekile kwakhela endabeni yombala, i-knitwear ethokomele kanye ne-boxy silhouette) kanye ne-super stylist u-Law Roach kumugqa ongaphambili, uhlobo luqala ukuvela. Hollywood, futhi. Ngempela, ngemva kweminyaka embalwa enesiphepho, ikusasa libonakala liqhakazile kuLanvin.