Ukubukeka kwe: UMaison Margiela Ulungele Ukugqoka Ekwindla/Ubusika 2020 eParis U-John Galliano uhlole "izimpawu ze-Bourgeois" ngenkathi ethula "i-Recicla," ukuhlanganiswa kwezingcezu zakudala eqoqweni lakhe.
"Isenzo sonxiwankulu" sithathe imicabango kaJohn Galliano yakamuva, eqala ngeqoqo le-Maison Margiela Artisanal alikhombisa ngoJanuwari. Ukuze alungele ukugqokwa, waqhubeka nalolo phenyo ngomusa namandla athule.
U-Galliano usebenze ezisekelweni ezijwayelekile, eqala ngamakhodi afanayo okugqoka, ehlanganisa isignesha yezindlela zokungcebeleka - ukudoba, ukugibela izintaba, ukuhamba ngomkhumbi - kanye naleyo yezingubo zomphakathi, njengengubo efanele yentokazi noma ibhulawuzi le-pussy-bow noma ibhulawuzi eliqinile. ijazi, elijikijelwa emahlombe.
Ku-podcast yakhe, ubize indlela yakhe “njengebuyisela emuva,” wathi, “Ngiyawuthanda umbono wokuthi mhlawumbe ngiqale ukwazi ukujabulela lezi zenzo.” Amakhodi ajwayelekile, uyawagcina, abuyisele umuzwa wokuba ngowabanye. Wavula ngochungechunge lwezakhi zezingubo zangaphandle, amajazi "inkumbulo" ahlanjululwe phansi kukhola kanye nama-faces ahlanganiswe nesisekelo esicwebile noma umkhono owodwa onemibala, omningi kanye nekhola yentamo yomnsalo. Lezi zadlula izingubo ezigqoke izendlalelo, i-tulle esobala noma i-chiffon phezu "kwengubo eyisisekelo" ngosilika. Kamuva, wabonisa amajazi agcwele ngokulinganisa okwanele, amanye anombala oqinile kanti amanye, ahlanganiswe ndawonye, njengokungathi uhhafu wezingubo ezimbili ezihlukene.
Ikhono likaGalliano elingenakuqhathaniswa lalibonakala ngokugcwele ekubukekeni lapho asebenzise lokho akubiza ngokuthi "umsebenzi oqhubekayo", futhi kunjalo ngempela. Kwesinye isikhathi kuholele ekubukekeni okumangalisayo kodwa okuwumzila wezindiza kuphela; lapha, izingcezu zazibukeka zikufanelekela ukushintshela empilweni yangempela. Eqinisweni, lokho kwakungenye yezinkazimulo zaleli qoqo; kuzo zonke izinkinga zokusika, nokudilizwa kanye nokwakhiwa kabusha, u-Galliano wazuza isimo sengqondo esicindezelayo sokukhululeka. Ingxenye yokuheha okududuzayo yavela kuphalethi, inhlanganisela enhle kakhulu eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, eluhlaza okotshani namawolintshi, egqugquzelwe imidwebo ka-Edward Hopper.
Umqondo "wokubuyisela" awuzange uqale futhi uphele ngokucela kukaGalliano amakhodi onxiwankulu. Kunalokho, kwaba nencazelo engokoqobo ngohlelo lwakhe "lwe-Recicla", izingcezu zangempela zasendulo yena nethimba lakhe abazitholile futhi bazihlanganisa eqoqweni, ngezinye izikhathi njengento eyodwa, futhi ngezinye izikhathi bahlanganiswa kwezinye izinto, njengezingubo ezivulwe phezu kwe-cashmere yakudala. amajezi. Ucezu ngalunye oluthuthukisiwe luzofika nelebula elichaza ubudala balo kanye nemvelaphi yalo; ukuthi kuphaneli yejazi loboya obubomvu kufundeka kanje, ngokwengxenye: “Uhlelo Olukhawulelwe: Ucezu Oluhlukile…Isimo: Avenue de Clichy, Paris (kwenye indawo : rue Jules Vallès, Paris); Isikhathi: Ekuqaleni kuka-1980.
UGalliano waphawula ku-podcast yakhe ukuthi ukukhuphuka kwamabhayisikili kufeza izinhloso ezimbili.
Okokuqala, ibhekisela ekwamukeleni kukaMartin Margiela izinto zakudala ayezoziphindaphinda emaqoqweni akhe, futhi ikhuluma ngesidingo sokuthi imfashini yehlise ijubane, kuyilapho “inikeza enye impilo enye into.” Ewashini likaGalliano, leyo mpilo yesibili yemfashini yayikhipha imali ye-chic.
UMaison Margiela Ulungele Ukugqoka Entwasahlobo/Ehlobo 2020 eParis