Eqoqweni lakhe lokuqala labesilisa nabesifazane, i-Thom Browne Ready To Wear Fall/Winter 2020 Paris ibeka ubulili esimeni esilinganayo, ibahlanganisa ngokuthunga.
Uma amanzi akhuphukayo e-Balenciaga eshiya eyodwa nomuzwa wokulahlwa nesigayegaye, kwalandela umkhumbi kaThom Browne wokusindisa usuku ngokukhumbula okufana nokwengane.
Nakhu ukusethwa: Ebonisa amadoda nabesifazane endleleni yezindiza ndawonye okokuqala ngqa, umklami ubeke ubulili endaweni elinganayo - ngokoqobo - ngokunengqondo, amabhuzu e-block heel Ghillie. Bekuyisinyathelo esihle.
Babengasekho abesifazane abagqoke izicathulo zepulatifomu ezididayo okudingeka baphelezelwe bephuma kumgwaqo wezindiza ngemva kokuzizwa bequlekile. Zazingasekho iziketi nezingalo eziboshwe ngezikhathi ezithile, eziye zaphakamisa indawo eyimpumputhe yokungahloniphi abafazi. Esikhundleni salokho, ukuhamba endaweni yezimanga yeqhwa, kwafaniswa namasethi emodeli yakhe kanye neyakhe, egqokiswe ngokulingana okufanelana neziketi, izingubo zokugqoka namasudi.
Kodwa, njengoba bonke babefake amaveyili amnyama ebusweni babo (aboshwe ngezikhonkwane zezinwele ezincane, ngalinye linamathiselwe ngokucophelela ngesiginesha i-Thom Browne iribhoni elibomvu, elimhlophe neliluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka), kwakunzima ukusho ukuthi laliyini, futhi kwakuyilo iphuzu. Sibonga uJanelle Monáe (ohlezi phambili), uBilly Porter, uLaverne Cox nabanye abaningi abasebenzisa ama-trailblazers, akusenandaba ngempela.
Idlala endabeni yendaba, imodeli ngayinye yayiphethe isikhwama sesikhumba esimise okwesilwane esihlukile. Ayengama-33 esewonke endaweni yezilwane yase-Browne - izindlulamithi, izinkukhu, onogwaja, amadada, obhejane, amawundlu nokunye, futhi kwaba mnandi kakhulu ukuzama ukuzibona zonke. (Wonke umkhumbi uboniswe kumajazi ama-tweed, isheke, iwindi le-pinstripe bucolic-scene patchwork.)
"Ngangicabanga ukuthi ngizofiphalisa imigqa phakathi kwendoda nowesifazane, futhi ngibenze bagqoke into efanayo, izindwangu ezifanayo kanye nezilinganiso ezingaphezulu nezingaphansi," kusho uBrowne ngemuva kwesiteji. “Siqale ngababili ngambili emkhunjini kaNowa, sabe sesingena ngababili, ngoba kufanele kube njalo manje, abantu kufanele bakwazi ukuba nanoma ngubani abamfunayo,” echaza echaza ngokuqhubekela phambili kwalo mdlalo kuze kube sekugcineni lapho amamodeli abambene ngezandla nozakwethu ohlukile.
U-Eli Bernard womagazini we-PnVFashionablymale Magazine 02 Agasti 2019 (Idijithali Kuphela)
$8.00
Engeza ekalishini
U-Ripp Baker we-PnV Imagazini ye-Fashionablymale Magazine 01 May 2019 (Idijithali Kuphela)
$8.00
Engeza ekalishini
USteve Grand we-Fashionally Male Mag Pride Edition 2021
$5.00
Ikaliwe 5.00 koku-5 okusekelwe ezilinganisweni ezi-5 zamakhasimende
Engeza ekalishini
U-Lance Parker womagazini we-PnVFashionablymale Magazine 03 Okthoba 2019 (Idijithali Kuphela)
$8.00
Engeza ekalishini
U-Sean Daniels womagazini i-PnV Fashionablymale Magazine 01 May 2019 (Idijithali Kuphela)
$8.00
Engeza ekalishini
U-Andrew Biernat Womagazini I-PnVFashionablymale Magazine 03 Okthoba 2019 (Idijithali Kuphela)
$8.00
Engeza ekalishini
U-Alex Sewall Womagazini I-PnVFashionablymale Magazine 04 Jan/Feb 2020 (Idijithali Kuphela)
$10.00
Engeza ekalishini
U-Nick Sandell we-PnVFashionablymale Magazine Issue 07 Oct/Nov 2020 (Idijithali Kuphela)
$8.00
Engeza ekalishini
UChris Anderson womagazini we-PnVFashionablymale Magazine 06 July 2020 (Idijithali Kuphela)
$8.00
Ikaliwe 5.00 koku-5 okusekelwe esilinganisweni sekhasimende esingu-1
Engeza ekalishini
Izimpahla zokugqoka zazimayelana nesikhathi sokudlala nge-tweed kaHarris emnyama nemhlophe, uBrowne ayisebenzisa njengendwangu yamasu akhe amahle kakhulu okwakhiwa kabusha, i-trompe l'oeil, i-patchwork kanye ne-proportion play.
Ingoma yakhe egcwele, ehlanganisa ubulili yayibonisiwe, kusukela ku-nouveau prep (izingubo zikadoli ompunga ezine-organza enemigqa emikhondweni, amajazi amasaka namajazi anemigqa kasilika namaluni aluhlaza) kuya ku-nouveau dandy (izingubo zejazi ezitrompe l'oeil “ezinobuntu ,” ngokungafani nempungushe, amantshontsho); wonke amabhizinisi (amajazi efulaneli ampunga nothayi abagqokwa neziketi ze-pleat zebhokisi); kanye ne-LeBron baller (ipaki ye-patchwork enemiphetho ephukayo nezikhindi ezihambisanayo).
Thom Browne Menswear Spring/Summer 2020 Paris
Amajakhethi e-cardigan amade neziketi eziyimiphetho engeza umuzwa wokunyakaza kumasilhouette aqinile ka-Browne kwesinye isikhathi, futhi izigqoko neziketi ze-halter ezakhiwe kabusha ngamabhulukwe angakhiwe, amajakhethi namahembe umuzwa wokuhlola. Kwazwakala njenge-genesis yangempela.