Embukisweni wesitayela esidala sendlela yezindiza enamafuleshi e-paparazzi avutha amalangabi, umklami uphushele phambili isithombe esithe xaxa sokuthengisa, esilungiselelwe, samahhashi, ama-'90s kanye nesithombe sokuqala esiyisikhumbuzo se-Aughts sesizini ezayo.
Umgubho wosuku lokuzalwa luka-Gucci weminyaka eyi-100 uphele ngomsindo omkhulu.
U-Alessandro Michele ukhiphe iqoqo lakhe elisha elithi “Aria” ngoLwesine ekuseni ngefilimu yemizuzu engu-20 elethe ababukeli eThe Savoy eLondon, okungenani ngomoya, lapho umsunguli womkhiqizo uGuccio Gucci ake aqashwa njengomdlali wensimbi.
Embukisweni wesitayela esidala sendlela yezindiza enamafuleshi e-paparazzi avutha amalangabi, umklami uphushele isihlanzi, esiklanywe kakhulu, esifana ne-equestrian-tinged, sama-'90s kanye nesithombe sokuqala esiyisikhumbuzo se-Aughts sesizini ezayo - ngosizo oluncane oluvela kumngane wakhe, u-Demna Gvasalia ka-Balenciaga.
Setha iculo eligiyayo elizwakale okukhuluma ngazo zohlobo lwe-hip-hop, okuhlanganisa “iGucci Gang” ka-Lil Pump, u-Rick Ross ka-“Green Gucci Suit” kanye “ne-Gucci Flip Flops” ka-Bhad Bhabie, njengengcezu yokuzijabulisa, i-“Aria” yayiwumdlalo. hit — kugxilwe ngokuqinile ngendaba eqonde kakhudlwana kune-miniseries yomkhiqizo ekhukhumele, egcwele inkanyezi, enezingxenye eziyisikhombisa ze-“Ouverture”. Futhi kunokuba inqwaba yosaziwayo, uGucci wayeyinkanyezi, efanele unyaka wesikhumbuzo.
"Ngagxila ku-DNA yomkhiqizo ngoba iyingxenye yami," kusho uMichele ngefilimu, ayenza nomqondisi uFloria Sigismondi. Wabhala lo mbhalo, ehlaziya amandla eGucci esikweni le-pop, futhi efanisa i-mystique yayo neklabhu, eyodwa kuphela ngaphansi kokuqondisa kwakhe, wonke umuntu umenyiwe.
Iqoqo lidlule ezizukulwaneni ngezizukulwane namathonya, lithinta ifa lomkhiqizo ngokuvinjwa imibala kwe-jockey, izigqoko zokuzivikela ze-"Savoy Club" kanye nokuguqula ihhashi lasekhaya libe amahhanisi amahle amnandi.
Inhlanganisela yama-pared-back bourgeois classics - amajakhethi okugibela neziketi zamabhulukwe, ama-jodphur, amabhuzu nezikhwama zamabhande ezinoqalo oluhlotshisiwe - yayiyizindaba ezithinta futhi ithengisa kakhulu kumkhiqizo we-maximalist, futhi yaqinisekisa kabusha i-Gucci njengomhloli wamahhashi okusebenza ekhabethe angaphelelwa yisikhathi.
Nakuba le ndlu ingakaze yenze amahhashi njengoHermès, “umhlaba wamahhashi uyingxenye yenganekwane yomhlaba ophakeme,” kuchaza uMichele ngendlela abheka ngayo ukwenziwa kwenganekwane yakwaGucci. “Umlando ezinye izinhlobo zaseFrance ezinawo ungumthwalo othokozisayo, kodwa nginelebhu,” echaza.
Wacosha indaba yokuyenga ka-Tom Ford kusukela ngeminyaka yawo-'90s kanye nama-Aughts akuqala, okuhlanganisa i-power puff, imikhono yezimpaphe; Ileyisi yezingubo zangaphansi, namajini elogo ephansi aboshwe ngebhande lehhashi elibukeka lithandeka futhi eligqokwe namaphampu e-slingback yelogo - nesudi ebomvu yevelvet eyayiringer yaleyo uGwyneth Paltrow eyayigqokwe kuma-MTV Music Awards ka-1996. Into yomqoqi osheshayo!
Kanjalo, futhi, kuzoba yizingubo ezicwebezelayo ze-Gucci-meets-Balenciaga, ezichazwa uhlobo "njengenhlonipho," kodwa ngokungangabazeki zigxila ekubambeni iqhaza kwemfashini kwamanje. Ukuncoma kuka-Michele ukuthunga kwe-Gvasalia okugomelayo kwakuboniswe ngokugcwele emahlombe anosayizi we-linebacker ezicucu eziningana, okuhlanganisa ijazi elilodwa le-alover kagesi eliluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka kanye ne-GG elimnyama lesequin elingabonakala limiselwe isigaba sokusebenza nganoma yisiphi isikhathi.
“Ngamtshela ukuthi ngifuna ukudlala ngezitayela zomunye umuzi,” kusho uMichele ngesikhathi ekhuluma noGvasalia, ambiza ngokuthi umngane, echaza ukuthi usebenzisa amaphethini nezitayela zomklami. I-Balenciaga's padded hourglass silhouette iphenduke yaba ngama-blazers elogo ye-GG, isibonelo, egqoke iziketi ezisikiwe namabhuzu esikhumba sesibili.
Ukugqoka kwakuyi-lineline futhi kubukeka kukuhle, ngemibala kaswidi, nama-blazer anesifuba esiphindwe kabili phezu kwebhulukwe elivutha kancane labesilisa nabesifazane, noma embozwe ama-logo we-alover kaleidoscopic e-GG abumbene kakhudlwana, futhi kwakukhona ukuthintwa kwezingubo zezemidlalo ngendlela yama-puffers futhi amapaki.
Yize bekunokuningi okungeziwe, okuhlanganisa izikhwama eziphrintwe ezinezinhlamvu zengoma ye-Gucci, izindandatho zekhala ezinophawu, amaketango omzimba ngisho nobucwebe obuhle, isitayela se-maximalist sikaMichele sathatha isihlalo sangemuva sivuna ukubukeka okungaxutshwe nalutho. Kwazwakala kusha ngakho. Kodwa ukubandakanywa - umnikelo wakhe oyedwa kumkhiqizo nakwezemfashini - kwakuyinhliziyo eshayayo yephrojekthi (hlola nomgwaqo wezindiza ombozwe ngekristalu, futhi i-minaudières).
U-Michele uqondise umculo, futhi wasungula lo mqondo, wagxila kulo mzuzu wobuciko obuhlangene, futhi ethatha izinkomba zesiko lokugebenga/lokuqashisa uGucci alaziyo, kunokuba ligwenywe, ngokusebenzisana kwalo noGucciGhost, uDapper Dan nabanye.
Futhi nakuba kwakungekho osaziwayo endlini, wahlonipha indima yaseHollywood ekwenzeni inganekwane ye-Gucci ngesitayela se-cinematic sefilimu, kanye nama-flashbulbs e-paparazzi esikoleni esidala. Labo babonakala bevuma ngekhanda ukuthi u-Gucci waqala kanjani ukuqaphela isiko lomculo we-pop ngokusebenzisa izithombe zesitayela sasemgwaqweni zomthwebuli wezithombe u-Ron Galella ka-Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis kanye nabanye ngeminyaka yawo-'70s, futhi usaqhubeka nokuheha namuhla ngezithombe zika-Lady Gaga no-Adam Driver abathwebula ifilimu ezayo “ Indlu yeGucci” eRoma.
Ngeso elibheke kuma-2020s ahlokomayo, bekunenqwaba yezimpahla zephathi, okuhlanganisa neleyisi ecwebezelayo ecwebezelayo nengubo yophaphe eveza ubhodisi nomchilo ngaphansi okubonakala kuwukuhlonipha ingubo ka-Marilyn Monroe ethi “Happy Birthday Mr. President” kusukela ngo-1962, yona uqobo igqoke ukusebenzisana phakathi kukaBob Mackie owayesanda kuqala ngaleso sikhathi kanye nomphathi wakhe, umklami wezingubo uJean Louis. Ikepisi elinombala okhilimu elifakwe izimpaphe ezibomvu kwakungesinye isiqephu sedrama.
“Ngiyabathanda abaqondisi bengqephu abakha abantu abahlukene,” kusho uMichele, ephawula ukuthi ikhono labo lokuxoxa indaba libe nomthelela kanjani ohlelweni lwakhe lokudala.
Ekupheleni kwefilimu, amamodeli aqhuma epharadesi elingaphandle, insimu yase-Edene yangemva kwe-COVID-19, efutha amakha, efaka i-lipstick futhi egona abangani bakudala. Kwakuyisikhathi esidabukisayo esivela kumkhiqizo owazalelwa e-Italy, indawo eye yahlupheka futhi isaqhubeka nokuhlupheka kakhulu phakathi nalolu bhubhane. Njengoba uMichele asho, "Leli ihubo lempilo."