LONDON, JANUARY 9, 2016
ngu-ALEXANDER FURY
Ukujwayelana bathi kuzala indelelo. Ngakho-ke yini i-gestate engajwayelekile, ebuchosheni bokudala? Ukuthakazelisa, mhlawumbe. U-Stuart Vevers ubukeka ethakasele kakhulu ngokumba kwakhe okusha e-Coach 1941, i-HQ yayo ephakeme ngaphezu kwe-High Line bang enkabeni ye-New York City. Kukhona isimangaliso esivuleke amehlo, ukwanga ngenhliziyo yonke u-Americana emsebenzini wakhe. Konke kufanele kubonakale njengephupho kumfana waseYorkshire owaba nesibindi sokucabanga okukhulu.
Lokho ukudweba ama-Vevers njengejoka elixegayo, kodwa amaqoqo akhe Omqeqeshi ka-1941 adlala ngokushesha nangesibindi ngama-archetypes aseMelika ngendlela umklami waseMelika angeke ayizame. Ngokusobala ukhangwe ngekhaya lakhe elisha, ngakho-ke ngemva kombukiso waseNtwasahlobo obhekiswe ku-Andy Warhol (ingabe likhona elinye iciko laseMelika?), unikezele ngeqoqo lakhe le-Fall 2016 emculweni waseMelika, ku-hip-hop yango-'70s, kanye noBruce Springsteen. .
Kuzwakala njenge-mash-up eyinqaba: uFab 5 uFreddy noThe Boss? Ibonakala kakhulu ezintweni ezisetshenziswayo, ezifana namabhandena e-Born In the USA aboshwe ezintanyeni nasezinqulwini, noma izigqoko zebhakede ezijulile ezidonswe phansi ebusweni. Amabhantshi ambalwa ezikhumba ezipeshisiwe ezinsundu ezihlukene ezihlukene abehlukene ngokugqamile ayengama-'70s, kodwa ngaphandle kwalokho lokho u-Vevers akubonisayo kwakuyinqwaba yezingubo zamadoda eziwubukhazikhazi, uhlobo lwamahembe abagawuli bemithi, ama-peacoat, amajakhethi aphansi, nama-Perfectos ashayiwe abafana (kanye abambalwa). girls) sebengenile emakamelweni abo. Kuyavunywa, izikhumba ezimbalwa zazibukeka sengathi amabhantshi ayingxenye yeshumi nambili aklebhuliwe futhi ahlanganiswe ndawonye ngendlela yesimanje, engakaze ibonwe ngaphambili. Babewumsebenzi omningi, kodwa bagcina bebonakala beyisisekelo.
Okuyinto enqunyiwe enhle. U-Vevers ukhulume ngombono “wokuba nesibindi esiluhlaza” kuleli qoqo; Ngagcina ngicabange ukuthi kubukeka kuyisidala kangakanani ukugqoka ingubo ekhohlisayo, ekhohlisayo ebonakala “iklanywe” ngokwedlulele.
Kwakuyinyama-namazambane, izingubo zekhola eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka—okuyisisekelo, okuyisisekelo, amakhodi, noma yini ofuna ukuyibiza—uVevers ayenesithakazelo ngempela kuyo ngalesi sikhathi: I-Archetypes kwakuyibizo lakhe alikhethayo: “Ihembe elipholile, isikhwama esihlakaniphile. , neteki elimpontshwayo—yilokho okungikhangayo namuhla, nasensizwa encane. Lokho kungaba ukunethezeka.” Igama elithi Cool igama uVevers alithakaselayo, naye—umbono waseMelika odabukisayo, owavela ngeminyaka yawo-'40s, ngenkathi kusungulwa umqeqeshi (ilebula igubha usuku lwayo lokuzalwa lwama-75 kulo nyaka) nalapho umbono wentsha uqala ukuphikiswa. njengendlela yokuthinta yamasiko. Futhi izingubo zikaVevers namuhla zibukeka, kalula, zipholile. Amajakhethi apholile, amajezi apholile, inqwaba epholile yamajazi okugunda ayisiginesha yomkhiqizo—“inguqulo yethu yoboya”—ivolumu yayo efiphele-wuzzy dandelion-fluff egcizelela umbukiso. U-Vevers ugomela ukuthi labo bayathengisa ngokushesha nje lapho befika phansi. Zazinhle, njengazo zonke lezi zingubo, nakuba zazingeke zihambise amapali ebhizinisi lemfashini.
Akufanele futhi bakufise. Ukunethezeka okufinyelelekayo kuwumdlalo umqeqeshi akuwo, kodwa, kuma-Vevers, ukufinyeleleka akukhona nje ngokwezimali kodwa ubuhle. Izingubo Zakhe Zomqeqeshi ziyisimungulu—kodwa izimungulu zenziwe ngobuhlakani. Izinkomba wonke umuntu angaqonda, ezingutsheni wonke umuntu angathola, kokubili ngokombono kanye nasemihlane yabo. Umklami washaya ijazi eliwubukhazikhazi, elifuthekela izilinganiso ze-GhostbustersStay Puft Marshmallow Man, wayesethi, ehleka: “Ngiyababona abantu abagqoke kanje e-NYC!” Ngike ngaba khona ngoFebhuwari ngeviki lemfashini, ngakho ngiyavuma. Uma kukhona noma yibuphi ubulungisa emhlabeni, leli qoqo lisho ukuthi i-Vevers izobona amakhasimende amaningi ewa—futhi azobe enelebula ethi Umqeqeshi.