MILAN, JANUARY 16, 2016
ngu-ALEXANDER FURY
"Umhlobiso ungaphakathi kwe-l'air du temps," kusho uStefano Pilati ngemuva kombukiso we-Ermenegildo Zegna obugcwele wona: ubuhlalu, ukufekethisa, i-jacquard, i-fil coupe. Lokho kuzwakala kushubile, futhi izinto zesiFulentshi zizozwakala njengokuzenzisa, qinisekisa ukuthi uPilati wahola u-Yves Saint Laurent cishe iminyaka eyishumi, ngakho uvunyelwe ukuboleka lolu limi ukuze achaze isimo sengqondo ngokungangabazeki esibonakala futhi esibonakala ngokushesha kuyo yonke imibukiso yaseMilan. Umoya ungowegugu, nowowesilisa ohlotshisiwe.
I-Zegna inamathisele igama elithi "Couture" kumalebula ayo, ukukhombisa umugqa oklanywe u-Pilati. Umuntu ngokuvamile angacabanga ukuthi ukusho i-couture esivivinyweni, isikhunta esisunduza umngcele—isimo esiyinqaba, izinto zobuchwepheshe—kanye nakuthegi yamanani. Nokho, namuhla uPilati usethathe izintambo njengengqikithi yeqoqo elidlala ngezimiso zalo futhi walihumushela esisho samadoda.
Hhawu omkhulu. Amathani abaklami bezingubo zabesilisa bazama ukwenza lokho, isizini nesizini, ngokuvamile njengezaba zokusebenzisa uhlobo lokuhloba u-Pilati alugqamisa njengomoya walezi zikhathi zamanje. Mhlawumbe, yingakho uPilati ngokwakhe adelela kancane njengoba ethi “umhlobiso.” “Angihambisani nendlela engibona ngayo,” kusho yena. Ngakho wenza into entsha ngayo.
Umlando ka-Pilati e-Saint Laurent umgxilisa esikweni laseFrance lomsebenzi wezandla ogxile embonini—ukudonsa, ukudweba, ukusebenza kanzima phezu kwendlu yangasese—okuphambene nokuhambisa inqwaba yemidwebo efektri nokulinda amasampula azodlalwa ngawo, njengase-Italy. . Uyawazi amasiko e-couture njengabambalwa abasebenza ngezingubo zabesilisa. Hlanganisa lokho kanye neqiniso lokuthi u-Pilati unomqondo wobuchopho, futhi uvusa inkanuko ngamabomu, futhi uyaqonda ukuthi kungani ukuphindaphinda kwakhe umqondo we-couture kwakungenye yezinto ezinhle kakhulu ezake zazinikela emzimbeni wesilisa.
I-Haute couture ye-Zegna Fall 2016 ayizange iphathwe njengezaba zokuhlobisa, kodwa njengomqondo okufanele uhlole, izimpawu zayo nezimpawu zihlakaziwe, zasetshenziswa kabusha, futhi zahunyushwa kabusha. Isethi bekuyindawo yokucwala izinwele egcwele indawo yokuhlala enemilenze eyisipinki, kodwa yacwiliswa ngamapulangwe, njengesidlo sasekuseni sika-Meret Oppenheim in Fur. Futhi izingubo zangqubuzana ngendlela exakile izintambo ze-couture: imiqulu ethungwe ngokucophelela ngamajazi afakwe kancane kanye namakepisi ashanelayo; ama-brocade acwebezelayo nama-jacquard; izingubo zakusihlwa ezinobuhlalu obuhle. Kodwa lo mkhuba wawususelwe ekhaya. I-modelé ngayinye yayinenombolo, njengesethulo se-salon yendabuko: ezikaPilati, nokho, zazinanyathiselwe ezigqokweni ze-fedora, zifekethiswe othayi abalukiwe, noma ziboshelwe ezikhwameni zesikhumba sethole. Uhlakaniphile.
UStefano Pilati uhlakaniphe kakhulu—futhi ngezinye izikhathi, uyazibuza ukuthi amadoda ayawafuna ngempela ama-togs ahlakaniphile avela kulebula yokunethezeka. Kungani ungenzi into eyisimungulu—ijazi levicuña elikhulu, elibizayo; isikhwama esikhulu sengwenya esibizayo—futhi wenze imali eningi? Ngoba leyo akuyona imfashini—futhi ekugcineni, akuyona into ewubukhazikhazi. Ngaphezu kwalokho, ayizinzile. Kukangaki abantu befuna ukuthenga izinto ezifanayo ezingenangqondo, njalonjalo? Kufanele ukuhlanganise.
Yilokho uPilati akwenza lapha. Ubuso babubalulekile, umhlobiso wawungagcini nje ngokuhlala phezulu kodwa futhi wawufakwe endwangu ngokwayo. Futhi kukho konke lokho kuhlobisa, ubuqili bebubalulekile-imibala yayingekho: grey-blue, violet-gray, ukusiza okuhloniphekile bekamela, okumpunga kakhulu. “Izicucu ezinhle kakhulu amajezi,” kusho uPilati mayelana nezingubo zokuluka ezinobuhlalu ezinobukhulu obuthathu. Bazikhiphile entanyeni, kodwa bathi oziphu bavuliwe, bagqokwe ngokunganaki kwehembe eligugile. I-Couture enesimo sengqondo esisha: Izinto eziyigugu okungadingeki ube yigugu ngazo.
Ngangilokhu ngicabanga ngoSaint Laurent—indoda—phakathi nalo mbukiso, njengoba sasishayela ihlombe izingubo zikaPilati ezihlalweni ezifanayo nalezo amakhasimende ka-Yves ayepake kuzo ukuze ajabule nge-haute couture yakhe. I-Monsieur Saint Laurent ifune i-silence des vêtements, futhi lokho kwaba kuhle kakhulu nge-Zegna ka-Pilati. Lezi zingubo zazinhle kodwa zithule. Uma besho okuthile, bekuthi “ngicela uhlole.” Ngingathanda ukwazi ukuthi zibiza malini.
U-Yves Saint Laurent naye wayeyi-chic engenaphutha. I-Chic kwakuyigama uPilati ayelokhu elisho, ehleka, njengengane ekhuluma amanyala. Njengesichasiso, i-chic izwakala iyinhlamba—kuyigama esingakaze silizwe muva nje mayelana nezingubo zabesilisa. Abantu bangathanda ukuba namahloni noma bapholile. “I-Chic ingalinganiswa ngokweqile,” kuvuma uPilati. "Kodwa, ngicabanga, lokhu bekukuhle ngempela." I-chic ngokuqinisekile yiyona eyangishaya. Futhi ngingumlandeli.