MILAN, JANUARY 17, 2016
ngu-LUKE LEITCH
UMassimiliano Giornetti usekelwe ngokoqobo konke ukubukeka kuleli qoqo esicathulweni esiklanywe umsunguli womqashi wakhe okwakungesika-Andy Warhol. Umdwebi uthenge ama-Ferragamo oxford—ngokusobala okuwukuphela kwesitayela sezicathulo zabesilisa esake saklanywa i-Bonito-born maestro yezicathulo—futhi wazigqokisa ukuze azipende. Ngemva kokushona kuka-Warhol, u-casa Ferragamo wathenga izicathulo zika-Warhol, ezigcwele ukusakazeka okungahleliwe kwezinhlobonhlobo. -ama-spatter kapende anemibala.
Ukunyatheliswa kwalezi zi-Oxford ezithinteke kabili ngakho-ke kwenza konke ukubukeka lapha namuhla. Izicathulo ezinkulu ongangena kuzo. U-Giornetti wenza isibhakela esihle ngakho. Uthe ubehlola i-dialectic ye-sartorial classicism kanye nobuciko bemfashini. Lokhu kuhunyushelwe kuqoqo lezingubo zangaphandle eziwubukhazikhazi nezokunethezeka ezihambisana nesilhouette esiseduze esiyintandokazi sika-Giornetti, esibhekene namaluni namahembe avuke umbhejazane ngokusungulwa kobuchwepheshe.
Ukubukeka kokuqala kwe-mac emhlophe imele ukhanvasi ongenalutho okwapendwa kuwo wonke. Ijezi elihlanganisa uhlaka olumnyama lwe-mink phezu kwephaneli emhlophe yokugunda kuphaneli yejezi elilukiwe elihlotshisiwe elinemikhono yesikhumba laliwukwenziwa kwe-virtuoso. Izithombe ezigcwele ze-monochrome zika-Mario Giacomelli zamasimu alinyiwe zichaze umhlobiso webhomu elimangalisayo elididekile, kanye nemibala nesiphithiphithi sephethini yokuphahlazeka eyisisekelo ka-Egon Schiele ezimpahleni zokuluka kanye namahembe.
Kodwa khohlwa konke lokhu "i-arty schmartery": ngoba, amajazi. Amabhomu enayiloni omnqumo acwebezelayo namapaki agcwele ukugunda; ibhomu enayiloni yaseJapane ne-shearling; isudi eneziqephu ezintathu zama-duffel kanye nezimbobo ezinoboya—konke kwakumangalisa. I-silhouette efanelekile ka-Giornetti ingqongqoza emnyango we-anachronism yeminyaka emibili edlule, futhi umkhuba wakhe osindayo weciko awunawo umzwelo wokuphuthuma kwegazi nokuduma. Nokho, anakho ukunemba okunembile. Nezicathulo ezisaphazwe ngopende.