MILAN, JANUARY 17, 2016
ngu-ALEXANDER FURY
Isithonjana igama elisetshenziswa ngokweqile kuwo wonke amasiko esimanje, hhayi nje kwemfashini. Kuyashintshana manje ukuchaza yonke into kusukela ku-hamburger kuya kubhulukwe langaphansi. Ngaphandle kombukiso we-Fall 2016 Calvin Klein Collection, izinkulungwane zamantombazane ahayizayo acula igama lika-Cameron Dallas, umuzwa osobala ku-inthanethi. “Ungumfanekiso wethu,” kusho omunye wabo, izinyembezi zigeleza ebusweni bakhe. Akekho noyedwa kwabemfashini okubonakala sengathi uke wezwa ngaye, futhi asikwazanga ukuthola ukuthi wenzeni. Kwakuyi-Warholian impela.
Yilokho okuphathelene nezithonjana; azikho eziningi kangangokuba wonke umuntu angavumelana ngazo. U-Italo Zucchelli unokuningi okumbalwa onakho ku-Calvin Klein, nakuba-ohlakaniphile kwezingubo, ibhande elifakwe uphawu kanye nomklami wokuqala ophumelelayo emhlabeni wamadenim afinyelela phezulu; kukhona nalabo nkulunkulu abashukiwe, abathonisiwe, nabagqoke kancane abangafa nguBruce Weber, uhlobo lwabafana lawo mantombazane asemasha abekade eklabalasa iminyaka engu-20 edlule. Inayiloni eboshiwe ngegolide, iplatinamu, kanye ne-rose-gold yenza ubuso nemizimba yalabo bantu besilisa baphila ngesikhathi esifanayo, amamodeli ahlotshisiwe enza umbukiso we-Calvin Klein ubukeke uhluke ngokuphelele kunoma yini enye impahla yabesilisa. Angikwazanga ukuzibamba kodwa ngacabanga ukuthi zazifana nezithombe zamaKhatholika ezicecisiwe zabangcwele ababukeka bebahle ngokusolisayo. Kodwa mhlawumbe lokho kwakungeyona inhloso.
UZucchelli wakha iqoqo lakhe ngalesi sikhathi kwesinye isithonjana: isudi yendoda. “Bengifuna ukukhombisa amandla asemhlabeni wonke okuthunga amadoda,” esho. Unqume ukwenza lokho ngokufaka amasudi akhe amadoda kubantu besifazane okokuqala ngqa—imodeli egqamile efana noMariacarla Boscono, u-Iselin Steiro, uJessica Miller, noGemma Ward. Akubona ncamashi uLinda, uChristy, uClaudia, noNaomi, kodwa laba abane bangaphambili, banesici sokuqashelwa ngokushesha. "Kuyathandeka, ucansi," kusho uZucchelli walawo sudi kaCalvin, agqokwa owesilisa nowesifazane phezu kwesikhumba esingenalutho. Zazisikwe ngendlela engafanele—ngezinye izikhathi ziphelele kangangokuthi awuzange wazi ukuthi zakha kanjani amamodeli anemisipha abe ngokulinganisa kukaSuperman. Akukhona ukuthi babengakaphiwanga ngokwemvelo: Kudingeka uhlobo olukhethekile lwendoda ukuze lubukeke luhle ngezingubo zangaphansi ezinde eziboshwe okhalweni ze-CK ezifake amajakhethi esudi aphansi ekupheleni kombukiso. Sonke siyazi ukuthi kusho ukuthini lokho.
Uguquko, nokho, luyindikimba ethokozisayo kwezemfashini—ikakhulukazi lapha e-Klein. I-Zucchelli yashintsha i-denim yaba i-jacquard, eyalukwa ngokucophelela ku-trompe l'oeil yokuguga kwansuku zonke, okwenza okwansuku zonke kube yigugu. UZucchelli waqala wasebenzisa leyo jean jacquard eNtwasahlobo—ngakho-ke babengenakho ukumangala okumnandi. I-Ditto the foiling, eyayisikhumbuza iqoqo elikhethekile le-Helmut Lang. Akekho owahlukunyezwa. I-Alchemy kwakuyireferensi uZucchelli eyalahlwa ngaphandle—ngokusobala, yinto ayishisekela kakhulu, futhi inomtapo wezincwadi ogcwele izincwadi ezibhekisela kule ndaba. Kwenza umqondo, kokubili njengokuphefumulelwa okubonakalayo ngemuva kwayo yonke leyo nayiloni yensimbi, ukupompa umthelela obonakalayo wama-anorak we-utilitarian namabhantshi e-MA1; futhi mhlawumbe nokuba khona komugqa ongaphambili we-Dallas eyindida. I-Judicious googling yathola ukuthi isiguqulelwe ekubeni iplatinamu yesiko le-pop ngamandla e-alchemic yenkundla yezokuxhumana yangekhulunyaka lama-21 (ngokusobala, ungumfundisi onekhono ikakhulukazi wenkundla yezokuxhumana iVine).
Ingabe i-Zucchelli i-alchemize igolide lase-Klein ngaleli qoqo? Hhayi impela. Amasudi ayecwebile, kodwa esebenziseka; ama-metallic linings ayebamba, kodwa azizwa evinjelwe ukuhlela. Kwakungekho okwanele kwalolo hlobo lomkhiqizo lwe-Klein, noma. Sekukonke, uZucchelli wethule umbukiso owawuyisiliva eliqinile, egqoke isudi emnyama enqunywe kahle.