Ibhalwe nguMiles Socha
Ingabe kunengqondo ukukhombisa amaqoqo amadoda nabesifazane endleleni yezindiza efanayo? Inani elikhulayo labaklami lapha eMilan lithi “yebo,” kuhlanganise noMiuccia Prada, owachaza isisusa sakhe ngalendlela: “Lapho ngisebenzela amaqoqo amadoda, ngihlale nginesithakazelo futhi ngikujabulela kakhulu ukuphenya izindlela ezihlukahlukene ezihlukene amadoda nabesifazane abasabela ngazo. umqondo ofanayo ngenkululeko ephelele.”
Ngakho-ke mhlawumbe yonke ingxoxo nokubhala ngesandla mayelana nemidlalo yezindiza ekhombisa ukuthi abathengi bayahamba kuyisu. Ake sizwe nge-coed!
Impela u-Prada wenze icala elinamandla ngalo mbukiso oyingqayizivele, omunye wezingubo zakhe ezihamba phambili zokugqokwa kwabesilisa eminyakeni edlule. Ekugcineni enye imfashini yesihlalo sakho kanye neqoqo elalingahlukanga nje kuphela kodwa livusa umcabango futhi liheha ngokudonsa kwalo okunamandla kwemizwa.
Ayengobani la madoda nabesifazane ababukeka beziqhenya ababegqoke izigqoko zabo zetilosi, amajazi aklanywe kahle namasudi afana neyunifomu, amakholomu namahood ahlukanisiwe, ama-skew nalengayo? Yiziphi izinhlobo zeziphepho, noma izivivinyo ezabhekana nazo?
Ngemuva kwesiteji, uPrada uthe ucabange ngomlando obanzi: Hhayi ukunqoba kwamasiko, kodwa "izikhathi ezimbi nezinzima" ezidinga ubuqhawe nothando ukuze zinqobe. Ubuye wacabanga “ngalokho okwenzekayo manje,” ebhekisela ezimpini, ubudlova neziyaluyalu ezicekela phansi noma ezixosha izigidi zabantu. Uthe umbukiso wakhe ubuwumkhiqizo "wokuxuba, ngendlela yesimanje, yonke leyo mibono nokuthola indlela yokuwenza manje."
Uhlanganyele ekuphrinteni noChristophe Chemin, umdwebi ongumFulentshi owaziwa kancane omidwebo yakhe engokomfanekiso - wamfafaza ngamahembe ekamu lama-Fifties, ama-smocks akhe othando - umbuzo nomlando we-remix. Isibonelo, eyodwa enepensela eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, enesihloko esithi "Obalulekile," ihlanganisa udumo, ehlanganisa u-Hercules, uSigmund Freud ophethe induku, uNina Simone egqoke amagilavu wesibhakela kanye no-Che Guevara ophethe i-Oscar.
Lezi zithombe ezinezingqimba eziminyene zinanelwe engcebweni yomumo emisha, izinhlanganisela nemininingwane efakwe ngesethi yezinhlayiya zokhuni ezinezitezi eziningi ezakhelwe ukuvusa itiyetha noma isikwele somphakathi. Amadoda ayegqoke izingubo ezihlukahlukene ezihlukahlukene, kusukela kumajakhethi amancane, aboshwe okhalweni kuya kumakepisi amangazayo namajazi ezikhulu. Amakholomu nama-hoods andizayo - ezindwangu zehembe, isikhumba esiqinile noma i-denim ene-shearling-lined - ifana nenguqulo ka-2016 ye-hit fur tippets ye-Prada yakudala.
Njengoba umbukiso uqhubeka, izingubo zanqwabelana nemihlobiso ye-folkloric kanye nokuthintwa kwe-homespun njengamapeshi enziwe ngendololwane noma ama-shearling. Ngokwengxenye enkulu, i-Prada yayisebenzisa izinto eziqinile nezilula: Isikhumba samahembe ama-popover namabhulukwe axegayo; idenim yamajazi amancanyana noma amakepisi, kanye noboya obunamakhethini obushelelezi obunethezeka, ama-blazers angema-Seventies ngokungacacile. Amabhulukwe ayenqanyuliwe ngendlela efanayo futhi ngezinye izikhathi ayengakhululeki ngaleyo ndlela yamabomu yePrada.
Ama-ensembles wesifazane ahambisana kakhulu nokuheha amatilosi ahlanekezelwe, ashaywa umoya, ahlanganiswe ngocansi nezithende eziphakeme namaphethini aqinile. Kwakukhona uchungechunge lwezingubo ze-satin ezibushelelezi nevelvet ezinemimoya engu-Forties - umthelela walelo shumi leminyaka uqongelela umfutho kule sizini yangaphambi kwekwindla - zonke zinzima ngaphandle kwemihlane yazo evulekile.
Ebuzwa ngemuva kwesiteji ukuthi ngabe ufuna ithoni yomdlalo epholile yini, uPrada uphendule ngendlela yakhe engenakuqhathaniswa yemfashini: ubuhlakani kodwa obungenangqondo. “Ungumuntu ojulile futhi ojulile,” ephendula. “Ukuzama ukuqonda ubunzima besintu nalokho okufanele sibhekane nakho nalokho okufanele sikwenze. Kodwa futhi ngizama, ngethemba, ukukwenza kube kuhle. ”