MILAN, JANUARY 18, 2016
ngu-ALEXANDER FURY
Sikhuluma ngokungapheli ngamafilosofi emfashini, mayelana nesifiso sokushumeka izingubo kusisekelo esibanzi, esiqine kakhulu sobuhlakani. Yebo, yebo, kunjalo, ijazi. Kodwa lisho ukuthini?
Ifilosofi yemfashini kaGucci—njengayo yonke into ekhona endaweni yonke ye-Gucci—iguqukile ezinyangeni eziyi-12 ezedlule, selokhu kwaqokwa umqondisi wezobuciko u-Alessandro Michele. I-Basta iya ku-sexy, ku-hangover ehlakaniphile yeminyaka yenkazimulo ye-Tom Ford. Izingubo zikaGucci zibukeka zihlukile, ngakho-ke ukucabanga ngemuva kwazo kufanele kuhluke futhi. UGucci namuhla ubhekisela ngobuqotho izazi zefilosofi ezifana nesazi semfundiso kaMarxist uWalter Benjamin, okubhekiselwa kuso njengendatshana ehlanganiswe kahle. Ngemuva kwesiteji, u-Alessandro Michele udonse ivesti ye-Aertex, enomfanekiso ka-Snoopy. “Uyazi,” wabubula, “u-Snoopy ufana nesazi sefilosofi.” Wayemamatheka.
Ifilosofi kaGucci namuhla ihlezi endaweni ethile phakathi kukaWalter Benjamin noSnoopy, phakathi kwe-highbrow nesiko eliphansi. Ukuthi ucabanga ngekhanda lakho hhayi nge-groin yakho kwanele ukushintsha ukusuka ku-Gucci yasendulo, eyayimnandi kanye nama-'70s, futhi kungavamile ukuba kube yini enye. UBenjamin ucabangele esiphethweni sokuthi umlando ubhalwe ngabanqobi-okuyinto esemqoka, ngicabanga ukuthi, ukuqonda lokho uGucci abhekene nakho okwamanje. Isikhathi esithile, sabona iGucci yokunqoba yakwaFord kuphela; bese kuba ekaFrida Giannini. Manje, Michele. Umlando uyaphindwa, kodwa futhi ubhalwa kabusha kancane.
Okwenziwe iqoqo leGucci labesilisa lika-Fall 2016 kwakuwukuphinda uhlanganise umhlabathi uMichele obewuhlanganisa ngonyaka odlule. Yayishintsha, kancane, kodwa yayimayelana nokuqinisekisa kabusha indlela entsha yokudala yendlu. Okungukuthi, uma sithembekile, akuyona into entsha. Kumane kuwukuhlelwa okusha kombhalo okhona. Kusha ngomqondo wokuthi imfashini ivamise uku-ivuselela isikhashana esiphambene naleyo eyandulele ngokushesha. U-Baudrillard wake wayicaphuna njengokuguquguquka kokuhlanganisa nokwenza kabusha. Akakacashunwa uGucci, okwamanje.
Okucashuniwe kungama-1970s. “Iminyaka yawo-1970 iyisithombe esinamandla kakhulu kimina somkhiqizo,” kusho uMichele. "Umkhiqizo unomphefumulo-futhi umphefumulo wawo ungalolo hlobo lwesikhathi sama-'70s." Ngokudabukisayo, wabe eseyibiza ngokuthi “i-jet-set,” okuyinto yokugcina oyicabangayo lapho ubona amasilika nama-brocade kaMichele, nakuba amasudi adalwe ngenhloso abukeka kancane njengomuntu olele kuwo ngeso elibomvu.
Yiqiniso, ziyingxenye eyodwa kuphela yalezi qoqo ze-Gucci eziyinkimbinkimbi, eziyinkimbinkimbi-ekhonjiswe eceleni kwama-Lurex knits, amasudi esikhumba senyoka, izithende ezihlotshiswe ngamaparele, nezibuko zelanga ezinamekwe ngekristalu. Ukugcwala okuchichimayo komhlobiso okuthumela ukubhala ukuze ukurekhode konke. Akekho oyoyigqoka-okungenani, hhayi ngalolo hlobo oluxakile. Kodwa wonke umuntu angahlanganyela futhi ahlanganyele nayo. Lawa maqoqo aklanyelwe ukuhlukaniswa ngabathengi, imibukiso yemfashini njengesiphakamiso esihehayo sezingcezu esikhundleni sobuhle bobushiqela, identikit. Akukho lutho olungalungile ngalokhu kokugcina, kunjalo. Kepha-ke, akukho lutho olungalungile ngendlela kaGucci. Kumane kuhluke. Ifilosofi ehlukile, indlela entsha yokubuka izinto.
Kodwa-ke, yiGucci embi kakhulu, futhi ngokumangazayo isiNtaliyane. “I-Schiaparelli encane,” kububula uMichele, edonsa ngeso lekristalu elifekethisiwe ocezwini olulodwa. “Bengicabanga ngoWalter Albini,” esho ngomunye. Futhi akubona abaklami base-Italy abagxuma ngokushesha engqondweni. "Kunombono ohlukile wemfashini yase-Italy, yezindlu ezinjengeGucci," kusho uMichele ngokucabanga. “Sinokuningi kunalokho abantu abakucabangayo. Nginezinto eziningi engqondweni yami ezivela kungobo yomlando, kodwa angifuni ukuba yisiboshwa senqolobane. Kuhlala ‘kuwumbono’ enginawo wengobo yomlando . . .” Umqondo wenkumbulo, esikhundleni sokuba ngokoqobo komlando. Futhi i-Gucci kulezi zinsuku ayinazo izindonga-ezingenabulili, ezingenasizini, ezihlelekile nezixubene nje. Imayelana nenkululeko. Futhi lokho, ngicabanga, ukuthi kungani abantu abaningi bekuthola kuvuselela, futhi banganaki mhlawumbe iqiniso lokuthi, njengezingubo zomuntu ngamunye, uMichele akanikezi ukusungulwa kodwa ukuvuselela, imvuselelo, nokuvuselela kabusha.
“Yithathe, yenze eyakho,” kusho uMichele. Wayekhuluma nami, mayelana nezingubo. Wayengase akhulume yedwa, ngoGucci.