Bona ibhuku lokubuka lika-Rick Owens Menswear Spring/Summer 2021 Paris.
Isihloko esithi “Phlegethon,” ngemva komfula womlilo oncibilikisiwe u-Dante athi ushanele abadabukile belahlwe indilinga yesikhombisa, leli qoqo libukwe kuqala ngu-Rick Owens endaweni yakhe e-Venice Lido. Phansi ku-Zoom wabonakala enomswakama futhi engenalutho: “Ngisanda kuphuma emanzini. Yinhle. Kumnandi.”
Kokubili e-Italy naseFrance, Isithombe Esikhulu besilokhu sigudlukela ohlangothini oluhle kakhulu sekwephuzile—ukusebenza phezulu nomfula, hhayi ukukhukhuleka—futhi lokhu kwaba, kusho u-Owens, enye yezinto ezibe nomthelela ekushintsheni kokuqondisa kungazelelwe ngosuku olwandulela le vidiyo. isethulo. Ngemva nje kokukhululwa "ekuboshweni" u-Owens waya e-Italy lapho engenzanga khona ividiyo eyodwa kodwa amabili eqoqo. Eyokuqala bekungeye- “Performa,” iqoqo lekwindla lika-2020 alikhombisa ngoJanuwari kodwa ukusatshalaliswa kwalo kwase kuvaliwe. Okwesibili, kamuva nje, kwakungeleqoqo, elalivele lihlelelwe kakhulu. Uhlelo lokuqala luka-Owens bekuwukunikezela nge-“Performa” kuleli viki ledijithali lemfashini.
Wachaza: “Ngaleso sikhathi kwakubonakala kuyinto ehlakaniphile nenomusa nenengqondo nenengqondo okumelwe yenziwe. Ngacabanga, ‘Ngingacindezela ngokusetha kabusha futhi ngiqale ukwenza lokhu kusukela manje kuqhubeke.’ Ngakho lelo kwakuyisu lami. Futhi-ke izolo ekuseni ngishintshe umqondo wami...ngoba kokungcono noma kokubi, umhlaba usujwayele ukukwazi ukubona yonke into ngesikhathi esisodwa—ukubuka kuqala kwalokho okuzayo kanye nesithombe salokho okutholakalayo njengamanje. Icebo lami bekuyoba ukuhlinzeka kuphela lokho okutholakalayo njengamanje, futhi ngingabi nakho okuzayo. Futhi emva kwesikhashana lokho kwakuzoqala ukuzizwa kugugile. Sijwayele ukubona into entsha kuhhavini. Futhi angicabangi ukuthi singabuyela emuva. I-genie iphumile ebhodleleni ... kungase kubonakale kunengqondo, kodwa ngokomzwelo akunangqondo. "
Ithimba lika-Owens lisebenze ubusuku bonke izolo—“Nginikeze abantu bami isifo senhliziyo”—ukuze bahlele ividiyo oyibona lapha ka-Owens efanelana futhi ebhala isitayela u-Tyrone Dylan Susman kuleli qoqo elisha (kodwa elibhekisela ku-auto-Owens). Ifomethi, ikakhulukazi uma iqhathaniswa nokushanela okudumile kombukiso we-runway we-Owens, ithi, u-Owens uvumile, usondelene. Uthe: “Ukwenza into emangazayo futhi ephikisanayo futhi eyeqisayo bekungeke kube yinto elungile manje…ngakho ngikhombise isenzo sangempela sokuthi sisebenze eqoqweni, ebengicabanga ukuthi bekuyinkulumo eqotho kakhulu engingaqhamuka nayo. ”
U-Owens wengeze ngokuthi nakuba eboshwe kakhulu kukhokho wakhe wechibi, ubelokhu elunguza kuwo: “Ngilokhu ngikhuluma ngalokho akwenzile uBalmain. Umbukiso esikebheni. Bengicabanga ukuthi kwakuyinto ethandeka kakhulu leyo. Bekungekona ukumosha. Kwakuyinkondlo. Bekuthandeka. Bekumnandi. Futhi engakuqaphela futhi lapho ngibona ukuthi inkampani efana ne-Balmain, noma noma yimuphi wethu, cishe sinomsebenzi wokwethula okuhle kakhulu kwalokho esingakwenza...Simelela ubuhle.”
U-Rick Owens
Ukubuka u-Owens no-Susman bexoxa phezu kwethi “Wish I Woz a Dog” ka-Alien Sex Fiend, ungabona kokubili ubuhle kanye nempumelelo kuleli qoqo. "Ngenye yezintandokazi zami ezake zafika," kusho u-Owens njengoba behlela ukuthi yini ebukeka ineminyaka engu-19, ibhantshi elingalayishiwe elinemininingwane yamahlombe aboshwe eligqugquzelwe ucwaningo lwakhe ngoLarry LeGaspi.
U-Owens uthe iziqongo zamathangi esikhumba ezinezingqimba eziphindwe kabili zazifana neqoqo lango-2012, futhi wengeza ngokuthi izindwangu nezingubo zokubhukuda kwakuyizinkulumo ezintsha zesikibha se-membrane esakhelwe okokuqala iqoqo lika-2017 elithi “Ukungcola.” U-Owens wathi: “Angikwenzanga lokho ngamabomu ngempela, kodwa kwavela kanjalo. Ngike ngabheka emuva ngasebenzisa ezami izinqolobane. Ngoba ngangikulowo mqondo wokuthi ngeke silahle izinto. " Ngengxoxo yabo, uSusman wasiza ekulolongeni ukwethulwa kwaleli qoqo, intuthuko u-Owens ayinikeza: “Ngivumele abantu ukuba bangene ngaphezu kwalokho engangikwenza. Nginabantu abaningi engizobabuza futhi ngibalalele, abanombono wabo ongithakaselayo...Kodwa ngesikhathi esifanayo, ngizoba nentshisekelo ezwini lokuqamba elingelomuntu siqu, hhayi isinqumo sekomiti. Ubugovu bami buphelele.”