MILAN, JANUARY 18, 2016
ngu-ALEXANDER FURY
Imfashini akufanele ibe mayelana nokusetha, noma ukugqoka okuhleliwe. Noma kunjalo, ikhaya lokutholwa likaTrussardi iPalazzo Brera—indlu eyisitezi yaseMilanese eyaklanywa uGiuseppe Piermarini—limangalisa kakhulu. Uma ungakahlangani nayo, isandla siyefana esanquma i-Teatro alla Scala, ekunikeza umbono wobuhle nomthelela. Kuhle kakhulu.
Kodwa-ke, i-palazzo iphinde ibe yindawo yobuciko yaseMilan; inenqwaba yemisebenzi yobuciko yeRenaissance kanye nesikole sokudweba. Lokho kufanelana ne-Trussardi—ngo-1996, ilebula yasungula isisekelo sayo sobuciko sesimanje, isekela imibukiso yabantu abafana no-Maurizio Cattelan, Elmgreen noDragset, kanye no-Martin Creed. Iqanjwe ngoNicola Trussardi, ongazange asungule ilebula (okwakunguyise) kodwa wayiqhubezela empumelelweni yomhlaba wonke. Inkampani iseyindaba yomndeni: U-Tomaso Trussardi uyi-CEO, u-Maria Luisa Trussardi ungumongameli, kanti u-Gaia Trussardi ungumqondisi wokudala.
Amaqoqo okugcina kaGaia ezingubo zabesilisa ahlelwe ku-Brera, egcizelela intshisekelo yakhe emadodeni obuciko—okungukuthi, ngesitayela sabo. OkweNtwasahlobo, amamodeli afundeka phezulu emtatsheni wezincwadi wesakhiwo; izingubo, nokho, kwakuyizingubo zezemidlalo ezilula. Kule sizini, abaculi bebematasatasa emaphaseji, futhi iqoqo ngokwalo lafakwa umoya ogcwele wonke we-rock yama-'70s obonakale engena kuwo wonke amanye amaqoqo e-Milan. Konke kuhlanganiswe ngobunono.
Uma ufika phansi ku-nitty-gritty yezingubo, asikhulumi nge-Bowie noma i-Ferry ekuphumeni kwabo, i-lamé retro-futuristic glam incarnations; kunalokho kwakufana noPaul Weller noJohn Lennon, isitayela sabo sabonakala siphawuleka ngokukhethekile ngoba sasidonswe ndawonye ezintweni ezingafani, zansuku zonke-amajazi e-corduroy nama-tweed; amahembe kasilika anezibopho ezifanayo; i-palette ephansi yemibala eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, empunga, neyobumba ye-sepia ne-terra-cotta. Lezo zijwayelekile, kodwa isitayela abasiqambile simile. Kusenomfutho wamadoda alangazelela umsebenzi ovamise ukungatheli wokubukeka epholile.
Awukwazi ukuthenga okupholile, kunjalo. Noma kunjalo, ubuchwepheshe bukaTrussardi esikhumbeni nasezikhumbeni bukwazile ukuphakamisa ukuqulwa kwamacala, umcabango wokuthi uma ungakwazi ukuthenga okupholile, ungathengisa ukunethezeka. Izibonelo: ijazi lesikhumba elibomvu elinoboya obuhlanganisiwe obuhlanganisiwe kanye ne-shearling ebomvu yobumba ene-intarsia yokuhlola ithole le-lumberjack. Ayengabonakali kodwa engavamile. Ivuthiwe kunoma yiliphi ikhasimende eliwubukhazikhazi ukuthi lidonse ku-wardrobe yalo futhi ligqoke ingunaphakade. Kuhle.