Okulandelayo ku-ajenda ye-Loewe Menswear Spring/Summer 2021 Paris Show-in-a-Box, umqondisi wezobuciko u-Jonathan Anderson uzosiqondisa ezithombeni ezinhle kakhulu zeqoqo Labesilisa Lasehlobo Lasehlobo lika-2021.
Umbukiso ka-Jonathan Anderson osebhokisini lika-Loewe uthatha ikhekhe, eligcwaliswe ngama-swatches endwangu, ishadi lombala, isethi ye-pop-up, kanye ne-voiceover soundtrack ku-vinyl 45, ukuze kudlalwe kusidlali sekhadibhodi esigezekile osisonta ngomunwe wakho wangaphambili. Konke kuqukethwe ebhokisini lokufaka amacala aqinile, eliveza kahle isimo sika-Anderson sobuchopho, kanye nothando lwakhe lokuzenzela kanye nomsebenzi wezandla.
Ivula amafolda efayela elimpunga, ithebhu ethi “Inspirations” iphethe ipheshana eliphuzi elichaza izithombe eziyisithupha, imidwebo emithathu kanye “nomshini wokukhanya othambile” oqoshiwe ka-Claes Oldenburg owakhuthaza ukugqokwa kwamadoda entwasahlobo ka-Loewe ka-2021 kanye nokuqoqwa kwangaphambi kwesikhathi kwabesifazane. (Azikho izithombe zemisebenzi yobuciko, kufanele uye ku-Google.) Isuka ngeminyaka yawo-1600 kuya kweyeminyaka engu-90 futhi ihlanganisa imidwebo emibili ka-Diego Velázquez yendoda endala egqoke izingubo ezidabukile, kanye nesithombe sango-1902 somdansi waseFrance u-Loie Fuller, owaye Iphinde ibalwe njengesikhuthazo se-Fall couture ka-Valentino. Imfashini ibonakala isemoyeni wendwangu enyakazayo yobuciko.
I-flip book yamaqoqo iveza i-trenchcoat yamadoda ene-swags enkulu ye-gabardine yemikhono efinyelela umvuthwandaba nge-donut enkulu yendwangu ngemuva, njengeshidi elifakiwe elidonswe emahlombe. Kukhona ukushaywa kuka-Pierre Cardin kumakepisi ayindilinga angavamile, amajazi ane-portholes, nama-sweaters anemikhono ye-hoop. Izimo eziningi zinde futhi zi-eccentric, zinemimoya yeRenaissance engacacile. Ukubukeka kwe-tie-dye, okuqashelwa nge-Japanese Shibori technique, kugcina imibimbi kanye nama-dimples.
Ocingweni lwe-Zoom, u-Anderson uthe ukhethe ukunikezwa okwengeziwe okusekelwe entweni okuphakamisa amasu obuciko ahlukahlukene aboniswa kumavidiyo aku-inthanethi. "Imfashini idinga ukwethembeka esikhathini esizayo," ephakamisa amahlombe, echaza izikhwama ngokuthi "ziqondile futhi ziqonde kakhulu."
Ebuzwa ngebhizinisi lamadoda, uphendule wathi: "Sinamandla amakhulu kulo mzuzu."
Ukuqoqwa kwangaphambi kwesikhathi kwabesifazane, kukhishwe izingubo zejezi ze-kooky Space Age neziketi zabo ze-hoop nemikhono, kumane kuhlasimule. Izingubo ezinde, zesitayela sokugoqa, ezigoqe kancane okhalweni olulodwa, zinhle kakhulu. I-Ditto izingubo ezimhlophe ezi-gauzy ezinemininingwane ethambile noma yesikhafu, namajazi okugunda anekholomu ye-portrait enkulu.
U-Anderson ukhala phakathi kwe-soigné chic enemininingwane eccentric - lapha amabhulukwe amnyama anempophoma ye-raffia enemibala evela okhalweni olulodwa - nemali yokuhlola eyengeziwe, okuhlanganisa amabhulukwe amakhulu kakhulu futhi alengayo kuphela ihhanisi lesikhumba elingawabamba. Yilokho okumenza abe umklami othakazelisayo.
Futhi ngale phrojekthi, egxiliswe ngamavidiyo aqhutshwa njalo ngehora ngeSonto ukuze ngaso sonke isikhathi indawo ibambe iqhaza, u-Loewe uba ngumdali ovelele wokuqukethwe, ekhulula ngokukhululekile okungaphakathi kwekhanda lomholi wakhe ohlakaniphile futhi evumela abantu ukuthi bahlanganyele emisebenzini yakhe. Ithebhu eyodwa yebhokisi ivikela iphethini yephepha yokubukeka okungu-No. 23, futhi uma lokho kuwumsebenzi omningi kuwe, ungakwazi njalo ukwakha amabhokisi ekhadibhodi agxivizwe ngezingubo kumafomu okuqhuma, noma izibuko zelanga eziphumayo eziphrintwe futhi zanyathelwa ekhadini. . Izimbobo zokukroba cishe ngeke zihambisane nezinhlamvu zamehlo akho, kodwa lokho kubonakala kuyiphuzu lika-Anderson: Ufuna sibheke izinto ngendlela ehlukile.
"Kufanele wakhe inkhulumomphendvulwano nezithameli ngokuzithoba okukhulu," esho, ephawula ukuthi isikhathi sokuvalwa kwendawo abantu abaningi benza izinto eziningi ngezandla zabo, kungaba ukupheka noma ukuluka.
"Ngicabanga ukuthi abantu bafuna ukwabelana ngokomzwelo okwamanje," emamatheka. "Abantu abafuni i-veneer."