Ibhalwe nguKatya Foreman
Iziketi zamadoda seziyinto evamile ukubonakala emzileni wezindiza, kodwa azikaze zihlungelwe empilweni yangempela. Kodwa njengoba isimo soketshezi lobulili siqhubeka nokukhula, u-Thom Browne wenze impikiswano egculisayo ngekusasa okungenzeka ukuthi lingekude kangako lapho amadoda ezophendukela ehhovisi - isikhwama esiphethe ngesandla - egqoke isiketi sakudala, izithende zika-Richelieu namasokisi ebhizinisi.
“Uqala ngendlela eyodwa usewusana, kodwa kungani ungeke ukwazi ukuzikhethela indlela yakho kunokuba abantu bakutshele ukuthi kufanele uhambe ngaphi? Kumayelana nokuba nomqondo ovulekile ukuzwa impilo ngendlela ofisa ngayo,” kusho umklami ngemuva kwesiteji.
U-Browne ukhethe igceke lengilazi le-Palais des Études ye-École des Beaux-Arts njengendawo yombukiso, enezithombe zayo ezisikiwe zezithombe zasendulo zaseRoma kanye nophahla lwengilazi oluphezulu nophahla lwensimbi. Ingoma yayo evusa amadlingozi ibithi “The Maze,” eyakhiwe ngumqambi uDavid Motion kanye nomqondisi uSally Potter wefilimu yakhe ethathelwe ngo-1992 yenoveli kaVirginia Woolf, “Orlando,” edlala u-Tilda Swinton njengesikhulu esibheka ubulili.
I-Thom Browne Menswear Ehlobo Lasehlobo 2018 Paris
Kwaphuma amamodeli agqoke amajakhethi esudu, iziketi nezicathulo ezishibhile, ngamunye ame isikhashana agqolozele imabula nekhabethe lengilazi elinezicathulo zezingane ezisagolide. (Ipheya lika-Richelieus osagolide lihlezi ekhabetheni ekugcineni komgwaqo.)
U-Browne uthanda ukuqinisa umlayezo wakhe, lapha ethumela i-smorgasbord engapheli yejakhethi yesudi kanye namapheya esiketi adlala ngokulingana okwedlulele futhi axube izindwangu zendabuko, eqoqweni elithumele ngefoni inhlanganisela yentombazane yesikole/umfana wesikole kanye nosomabhizinisi. (Isiketi esifingqiwe esinamaphiko sasibukeka simsulwa sika-Britney Spears.)
Ukubhanqa kusuka eziketini ze-seersucker namajakhethi anesifuba esisodwa anemigqa ephiniwe kuya engutsheni ehlanganisa isiketi eside esimpunga esicijile neblazer eyisikiwe ye-navy ephrintwe ngama-dachshunds asagolide. Bekukhona nengubo eyinqaba, okuhlanganisa nenye yendwangu yokuthunga empunga esiginesha enezimpawu zefulege laseMelika, ezinemisila yehembe emide enwetshiwe ngezansi kokuningi kokubukeka.
Uma bekunomzuzu wamahlaya, bekuvala umakoti nomkhwenyana, indoda engashadile egqoke ingubo ehlanganisa ishubhu elimnyama elishwabene ngaphambili nengubo yomakoti emhlophe eleyisi ngemuva.
Ebuzwa ukuthi ngabe zonke lezi ziketi zizoba yini iqoqo lezentengiselwano, uBrowne, oqhamuke isiketi sakhe “uphume ngemuva,” uthe: “Konke kuyanikelwa. Ngicabanga ukuthi kubukeka kumangalisa, akusikhona okwawo wonke umuntu, kodwa uma bengingabona umuntu ehamba emgwaqeni engingafuna ukwazi ukuthi ungubani lowo muntu.”