Egameni leqoqo elithi Gucci Epilogue, u-Alessandro Michele wathi: “Kimina i-Epilogue iyigama elingokomfanekiso elifanele ukuphela kwesimiso—sibheka indlela ehlukile yokwenza izinto.” Lena yiGucci Menswear Resort 2021 eMilan.
Njengoba amasonto amabili “emibukiso” yemfashini yedijithali ifinyelela amakhredithi, amavidiyo athwebula ikhwalithi yobuqiniso engaqondakali ahlala nathi. Eminye imikhuba ehamba phambili: i-gritty can trump glam, inqubo iyikho konke, futhi abaklami bavame ukwenza okuqukethwe okungcono kunamamodeli. Sonke singavuma, ngiyacabanga, ukuthi izinsuku zokuqopha abantu abahle abadansa phambi kwekhamera bese bekubiza ngokuthi ukugoqa seziphelile.
U-Alessandro Michele kaGucci akakaze abe umklami okhuphuka phezulu naphansi. Embukisweni wakhe wokuqala wokuvakashela lo mkhiqizo, owawuseNew York emuva ngo-2015, amamodeli awela umgwaqo waseWest Chelsea ngaphambi kokungena ngaphakathi kwendawo yegalari yobuciko; kwakungumbukiso obheke emphakathini ngaphambi kwalokho kwakuyinto.
NgoFebhuwari odlule, ezinsukwini ngaphambi kokuba kuqale inhlekelele ye-coronavirus eduze kwaseMilan, wenza umbukiso emzuliswaneni owawumangalisa futhi usondelene ngesikhathi esisodwa. Uma sibheka emuva, kubukeka sengathi kunobuhlakani: Ekumemeni izethameli ngemuva nasekudaluleni okwenzeka ngemuva kwesiteji kwezinwele nabasebenzi bezimonyo nabagqoki bamamodeli uMichele ubebungaza zona kanye izinto esizishoda kabi sonke ku-COVID-19- isikhathi: ukusebenzisana kwabantu, ukusebenzisana, ukuba yingxenye yezethameli ezamukelayo.
"Imfashini akuyona nje into esinquma ukuyikhombisa," kusho uMichele ocingweni lwevidiyo ye-WhatsApp ekuqaleni kwaleli sonto.
“Umbono wokuthi umkhankaso uyiphepha nje? Cha, kukhona omunye umbukiso ohlelweni.” Umqondo wokusakazwa bukhoma kwamahora angu-12 umkhiqizo okhiqizwe endaweni yokungcebeleka, awubize ngokuthi “Epilogue,” futhi udlalwa enkathini ekhazimulayo yenkathi yeRenaissance Palazzo Sacchetti e-Rome enomsindo wemvelo wama-cicadas, uwukuqopha umkhankaso wokukhangisa, ukuthwebula lokho. "bonisa ngaphakathi kohlelo." Kungalesi sikhathi kuphela, uMichele wachaza, “imidlalo yaseshashalazini encane. Lona uzongcola kakhulu. Amakhamera ambalwa ngendlela ye-Andy Warhol, mhlawumbe ababheki lutho oluthakazelisayo. Ukuhlolwa akusebenzi uma ngihlela kakhulu.” Impela, akukho okuningi okwenzekile ngaphambi kwengxenye elandisayo yokusakaza bukhoma esebenza njengoba kuvezwa iqoqo, kodwa kuningi okwenziwe.
Ahlela ngakho uMichele ukuthi abaklami estudiyo bakhe bazomodela indlela abasebenzela kuyona, babeke “thina” kuGucci, empeleni. Ocingweni lwe-WhatsApp, ukhumbule isikhathi njengomklami osemusha lapho ucezu ayelwenza ludonswa umbukiso noma ukudubula futhi akabange alubone futhi. "Kwaba sengathi othile uzama ukukuphuca indodana yakho." Ukubuka ozakwabo “kwakuyinto enhle,” esho, “babejabule kakhulu.”
Ngokuqondene nezingubo ngokwazo, uMichele wazibiza ngokuthi “umgubho wombono wami, izinto engazenza esikhathini esidlule, izingcezu eziwubuhle bami.” Lobo buhle buyinto eyodwa futhi idiosyncratic njengakuqala, kodwa iqukethe izixuku. UMin Yu Park, umklami wamadoda oselungele ukugqokwa ugqoka ijakhethi yezimbali enobuhlalu, ingubo yeleyisi enezimbali, kanye nomgexo oluhlaza ofana nesikhwama sakhe sikaJackie. U-Alexandra Muller, umklami we-embroidery, umodela ingubo ende yefilimu ephrintiwe enemibala egqamile enama-sequin acacile athatha ukukhanya. UDavid Ring, umklami wosaziwayo, ugqokela i-velvet blazer efekethisiwe, itiye elinemigqa, ama-flare ophawu, namateku. U-Alec Soth, umthwebuli wezithombe womkhankaso we-Epilogue wafingqa isipho sika-Michele esiyingqayizivele kafushane emsakazweni bukhoma: "ukuhlanganisa izinto eziphikisanayo ukuze kulethe impilo entsha kokuthile."
Ekhuluma ngobhubhane olulethe uGucci kule ndlela entsha yokwenza izinto, uMichele uthe, “Kuyinhlekelele. Kodwa akuyona nje inhlekelele. Kuwuphawu olukhulu lokuthi kukhona okungahambi ngendlela, umzuzu wokuzalwa kabusha. ” Ingulube yasendle ebonwe emigwaqweni yaseRoma yaba yitotem evalekile kuye, ukuba khona kwayo lapho kuphakamisa ukulungiswa kabusha okudingeka kakhulu. Uma imvelo ingakwenza, mhlawumbe imfashini ingakwenza, nayo?
Emuva ngoMeyi uMichele umemezele uhlelo oluncishisiwe lombukiso weGucci, wayikhansela ngempumelelo imibukiso ekude kakhulu yesikhathi sayo esidlule. Lokhu kungase kube iqoqo lokugcina lomkhiqizo, kodwa igama elithi "Epilogue" lingase libe igama elingelona iqiniso. Ukufundwa kokuvala i-lockdown - ukubaluleka kweqembu lakhe, ukubaluleka kwemizwa - kuzonamathela kuye, uyacabanga. “Akuyona nje indlela yokuvala, kodwa ukusho esikwenzile nokubeka imbewu yalokho okuzoba esahlukweni esilandelayo. Yebo, kungase futhi kube yisiqalo.”