Ibhalwe nguMiles Socha
U-Riccardo Tisci wakhulela e-Italy ephupha ngeMelika, evame ukondla amaqoqo akhe amadoda e-Givenchy. Incwadi ayithola ichaza kabanzi ngokuthatheka kwezingane ezithile e-Afrika - ama-cowboy, i-heavy metal - yaveza imibono emisha ngomzila wakhe wezindiza. Uphinde wahlangana ohambweni lwakamuva lokuya eMorocco naseBerlin, waveza iqoqo elihlukahlukene nelinamandla.
Abafana bezinkomo bazimemezela ngokushesha ngalawo mabhuzu agqamile, lapha e-velvet, kanye nomphetho wesikhumba usuka emikhonweni yamajazi namabhulawuni. U-Tisci uphinde wenza amajoka amajazi namajazi abe useyili wakhe oyinhloko ukuze ahlobise, okuhlanganisa nezicucu zesikhumba noma zengwenya ezinamathiselwe ngama-rivets ethusi, noma izikhonkwane ezilingana nesenti.
Ilogo ye-Givenchy yeza ngamafonti e-Metallic ne-Iron Maiden, kanye nezithombe eziyizipoki zogebhezi lwekhanda olutshuza phezu kwamabhantshi ebhomu nezikibha. Ama-Rockers aqinisekile ukuthi azojoyina i-Rottweilers ehholo lodumo le-T-shirt likaTisci.
Isimanga esikhulu kunazo zonke emgwaqeni wezindiza kwakuyimibala yomhlaba kanye nendlela yokwenza: uvolo obilisiwe owenziwe ngokugqwala wamabhulawusi; i-herringbone ensundu yamajazi agqamile. Emuva kwesiteji, u-Tisci uvumile ukuthi wayethatheka ngomnyama - owaphakanyiswa emzileni wezindiza namajakhethi e-cashmere anesikhafu namasudi anepayipi levelvet - ngenkathi ephawula ukuthi abantu abasha bahlobene nazo zonke izinto ze-eco.
Eqala iminyaka eyishumi yesibili e-Givenchy, uTisci ubonakala ehlose ukunyakazisa izinto. Nansi indawo yetiyetha encane ephinki ekhanyiswe ngamashubhu e-fluorescent kanye ne-archetype entsha yabesilisa ekulingiseni: amamodeli afana ne-cyborg anezinwele eziqinile ze-Spock.
Izingubo zangaphansi eziyishumi nambili ayezibukisa nazo zazizizwa zimncane emoyeni: Izinombolo zezingubo zangaphansi zeSatin noma zeleyisi ezimbozwe ngamakepisi we-tulle noma e-chiffon; ijezi elijikijelwayo likankulunkulukazi amajazi, kanye nekepisi elimangalisayo nengubo engonxantathu abancanyana besikhumba senyoka esiyinsimbi. Uhlelo lwafinyelela umvuthwandaba ngamajazi e-opera amnyama ahlanganisa isikhumba, uboya, uleyisi kanye nezigxobo zethusi. U-Tisci uhlala evusa ezothando ngokuqina kancane.
Buka i-Givenchy Fall Winter 2016 Amadoda alungele ukugqokwa kanye ne-Spring Summer 2016 Haute Couture Show bukhoma ku- givenchy.com