Bona incwadi yokubuka ye-Bottega Veneta Menswear Resort 2021
Ngemuva kokubuka kuqala okude kweqoqo elisha le-bottega Veneta, kwagqama izinto ezimbili: Ukunaka kukaDaniel Lee izinto ezibonakalayo—kungaba zobuchwepheshe noma kuthobekile—nokugcizelela kwakhe kumasilhouette angajwayelekile, ama-avant-garde.
Lezi zimo ezimbili zahlangana ndawonye ngebhulukwe elihle kakhulu elinevolumu eyeqisayo phakathi kwamathole, elenziwe ngendwangu eqinile isitudiyo se-BV esiyiqhathanisa ngothando ne-“Dickies cotton.” Amabhulukwe ayisibonelo seqoqo eliphakathi kokuvusa amadlingozi ukuvela kule sizini ye-COVID-19. U-Lee uye waqonda ukuthi izwe selishintshile—liyashintsha—nokuthi indlela esizofuna ukugqoka ngayo nayo isishintshile. Ngakho-ke ukunethezeka nokujwayela kwalowo kotini nokugcizelelwa kokuluka kwasekhaya okumangalisayo, okumelela inguquko yokucabanga kwakhe mayelana nazo zonke izinto ezilula azisebenzise kumzila wakhe wezindiza wokugcina.
Kodwa kwakungekho ukuhlehla ekuncipheni noma ukuphepha kwempumelelo yakamuva. “Ezikhathini ezimnyama kakhulu ukusungula kubaluleke kakhulu,” kusho u-Lee. “Imayelana nokwenza izingubo ongazitholi kwezinye izitolo. Ngaphandle kwalokho, yini inzuzo?"
Ukuhlola kuka-Lee i-silhouette kwamholela ezindleleni ezimbalwa ezihlukene.
Amajakhethi akhe amthungiwe aqoshiwe ngokulingana nalawo mabhulukwe anemilenze egcwele, afaka okhalo olunqunu kanye nokwakhiwa okumise okwe-V ngemuva okuqhakambisa ukubukeka kwawo. (I-V-ye-Veneta-isiphenduke i-motif ephindaphindayo, futhi isetshenziselwa ukwenza umphumela ophoqayo njenge-hardware esikhwameni esisha sakudala.) Kodwa kukho konke ukugcizelelwa kwevolumu eyihaba, u-Lee uthanda ukubukeka okuthambile, okufushanisiwe kwabesifazane: yithi, isiketi esiqondile esilukiwe esingenhla kwedolo, noma ingubo encane encane enomugqa owodwa we-portrait awenzile isiginesha.
Lezi zingcezu ezinemilenze emilenze zinobulili obuqondile, okungenzeka bube nomthelela njengabaklami futhi abesifazane ababagqokayo bafuna i-post-crisis entsha. Kodwa u-Lee ubukela phansi ubulili kulezi zithombe ngamabhuzu anezintambo ezinezintambo ezinkulu, ane-vibe epholile futhi emisha.
Okunye okungeke kubonakale ngaleli qoqo wumbala walo oshisayo, omuhle. U-Lee ufanise ibhulukwe lakhe elisha eligqamile elinehembe elibomvu eline-tech, wengeza amaqebelengwane aphuzi aphuzi kanye nesikhwama esinsundu sikashokoledi.
Bese kuba nombala we-lilac kagesi wejazi lokucheba lomugqa ongu-A, umbala ovela futhi engutsheni yesiketi esihlanganisiwe kanye nekhadikhadi elihambisana kulokho iziyingi zobuciko ezingakubiza ngokuthi isitishi se-popcorn, kanye ne-bubble gum pink yamaphampu esikhumba egilavu ye-patent ane-acrylic ecwebezelayo izithende.
Unomqondo wokuthi ngeke sigqoke okumnyama kulobu busika, ngisho noma imizwa yethu ingahambisani nephalethi yakhe ejabulisayo. Imfashini, ngendlela ephoqayo, iletha injabulo ngoba idweba umbono wekusasa obukeka umusha futhi umusha.
Uma ingubo ephrintiwe ka-Lee ephrintiwe ephrintiwe ye-intrecciato yemizimba yabantu enqunu kanye nesikhwama sesikhwama esisesembozweni sesihlalo sokhuni ubuhlalu obuphathwa yimodeli iba izikhumbuzo zale sizini yokuvalwa kwe-lockdown eyinqaba, yingoba zingamathomu eqembu labaklami elijabulayo. Ubani ongafuni okungaphezulu kwalokho kulesi sikhathi?