Sekuyiminyaka emithathu ngenyanga ezayo lapho uKim Jones enze umbukiso wakhe wokuqala we-Dior Men, ebeka isifanekiso esinezinkulungwane zezimbali eziphinki eziklelise umgwaqo wezindiza waseParis kanye nomdwebo oqoshiwe we-Kaws maphakathi nawo ukuze uthole imibukiso ewubukhazikhazi ehlanganisa abahlanganyeli babaculi. Ngemuva kwe-Kaws kwafika uDaniel Arsham, u-Amoako Boafo, uKenny Scharf, noPeter Doig, kanye nemigqa yabathengi abangenalo ubhubhane ngaphandle kwezitolo zeDior Men emhlabeni jikelele.
Njengoba ngingekho umzila wezindiza kanye nozakwethu womhlaba wezobuciko, leli qoqo linikeza ithuba lokuphenya ezinye izimpawu zesikhathi sikaJones. Uma bengewona njengama-splashy, ababhekwa kancane; isethulo se-Zoom sezinto ezintsha zale sizini iphakamisa ukuthi zimbalwa izinto azifihlayo ngemininingwane.
I-flask yensimbi engagqwali eqoshwe ngelogo ye-Dior Oblique iyinto encane uma uyiqhathanisa, kodwa ayiqoqi kancane.
Ama-sneakers ayindawo enhle yokuqala. UJones ubike ukuthi izicathulo ziyisigaba esikhula kakhulu se-Dior Men, "nezibalo ezinkulu." Ukwengezwa okusha kwale sizini yi-B30, okuthonywe ukuphathwa kwe-logo ye-CD yayo nge-aerodynamic ne-CD enkulu, esho, yi-modernism yesiFulentshi. (Kuningi ukuhlola amalogo lapha, okuhlanganisa ne-CD emise okwenhliziyo ephakanyiswe ku-Marc Bohan, umklami owasiza u-Dior cishe iminyaka engu-30.) Noma cabangela isikhwama esisha se-Lingot, esimise njengoba igama laso lisikisela njengebha legolide. Ihlinzekwa ngosayizi abahlukahlukene, isikhwama ngasinye sifaka isikhala esincane se-Apple's AirTags, okubenza balandeleke ngohlelo lokusebenza lwe-iPhone oluthi Thola My.
Ngaphambili kwezingubo, ijakhethi yenayiloni eyi-ripstop iyagoqa esikhwameni sesihlalo sesihlalo esifakwe olwelweni lwejazi, umkhiqizo osekunesikhathi eside uthuthukiswa ngenxa yokwakhiwa kwawo okuyinkimbinkimbi. "Kuyinto yobuchwepheshe eyenza ukuphila kube ngcono futhi kufanelana nezwe lanamuhla," kusho uJones. I-Utility iyingxenye yokunethezeka kwe-Dior Men. Ibhomu elihle eligundayo, ngokwesibonelo, lihlehla esikhumbeni esiphekiwe. Kwezinye izindawo, umthungi we-couture aziwa ngawo usekhululwe kakhulu.
UJones uveze ukuthi ucabanga ngentwasahlobo ka-2022, azoyikhombisa ngenyanga ezayo, njengohlobo lokuqabuleka. "Ngihlala ngizibuza, ngabe uChristian Dior wenzani manje," esho. I-couturier, yiqiniso, yenza uphawu lwakhe nge-New Look njengoba iYurophu iphuma ekubhujisweni kweMpi Yezwe II. Imfashini iyimboni ehlukile namuhla, kepha uma imigwaqo yezindiza isenamandla okubumba kabusha izitayela emhlabeni wangemva kobhubhane, uJones ngeso lakhe elizulazulayo nomdlandla ongenamkhawulo, angaba ngumqambi ohola indlela.
Ukucabanga kabusha amakhodi
Iqoqo le-Dior Spring 2022 Men's eliklanywe nguMnu. Kim Jones liqinisekisa kabusha ulwazimagama oluchaza ubunikazi bendlu besilisa futhi liphinde livakashele ama-silhouette aklanywe ngu-Marc Bohan ngeminyaka yawo-1960.
Umqeqeshi wakamuva ka-˝Jones wendlu - ofakazela ukuthi unemidlalo futhi uhlakaniphile; ukukhahlela okuhle kakhulu kokubuyela emhlabeni.˝
10 Men Magazine.
Ikakhulukazi ebhekisela kumiklamo yomsunguli wendlu, uJones manje ugxilisa ingqondo yakhe ku-Marc Bohan; Umlandeli wesibili kaMonsieur Dior ngemuva kukaYves Saint Laurent. Ukuvakashela kabusha ama-silhouette aklanywe u-Bohan phakathi neminyaka yawo-60, u-Jones uhlanganisa ukuthunga nezingubo zemidlalo ukuze abone ngeso lengqondo ikhabethe elikhululeke kakhulu ngesikhathi sentwasahlobo.
Amaknithi apinki acashile, ama-cardie engwe kanye namabhulukwe ansundu kashokoledi agcwala phezu kweqakala eduze kwama-pullovers enayiloni namahembe e-baseball anemithende.
Isithombe sika-Brett Lloyd @brett_lloyd