“Kuqala endaweni lapho sonke siye saba khona esikhathini esithile, sonke, emiqondweni yethu. Hhayi ngokoqobo, ngokomzimba, ngoba sonke senze ukwakhiwa kwethu okuzimele kwale ndawo nomuzwa. Bese kuthi kancane kancane ishintshwe njengoba sithola, futhi siyakhululeka, size sikhululeke—bese iphetha ngesidlo sakusihlwa esihle.”
Ngakho-ke u-Alessandro Sartori uchaze ifilimu yokuqoqwa kwentwasahlobo ka-Ermenegildo Zegna, ukulandisa kobhubhane lwemetaphysical okufinyeleleke ku-EDM oluthathe amamodeli alo asuka e-The Shining-esque discombobulation yokuba evaleleke yedwa emgaqweni waseTurin ebusuku ku-The Truman Show surreality yabangane abahamba phezu kwamanzi. sihlangane kabusha isidlo sakusihlwa eMilan—ngaphambi kokuba kube nguJohn Malkovich / Eternal Sunshine OTSM did-It- even-happen twist.
Yebo Kwenzekile, namanje kusenjalo, nakuba uSartori ecabanga ngokungakahleleki ukuthi leli kuzoba iqoqo lokugcina le-EZ elethulwa ngedijithali elingu-100%. "Kodwa-ke, ngifuna ukugcina ezinye zezinto zedijithali esizitholile onyakeni odlule noma ngaphezulu, futhi ngikuhlanganise nomzimba obuyiselwe ukuze ungeze kububanzi bokuxoxwa kwezindaba."
Lokho kuxoxwa kwezindaba kuklanyelwe ukudlulisa ukhiye wokuthatha we-Zegna otholwe ezinyangeni eziyi-18 zekhefu, okuhamba nakho okuvezwe kuleli qoqo.
Umqondo uwukubaza imodeli entsha yezingubo zabesilisa ezisezingeni eliphezulu ezithatha yonke into yobuciko, uchwepheshe, kanye nobuchwepheshe kusukela kwaPhambili ngaphandle kokubonwa ngobuhle bayo ku-Now and Ahead: ukulungisa indlela yemodeli ye-sartorial, gcina ubuciko kanye nobuciko. ulwazi lokwakha, ngenkathi yenqaba imithetho ecatshangelwe ngaphambili yefomu le-sartorial ukuze uqhubekele phambili ekuthandweni kwasekupheleni kwekhulu le-19 ukuze ubonise lokho kwekhulu lama-21.
Kubize nge-post-sartorial tailoring.
Njengoba u-Sartori akubeka: “umsebenzi wezandla ususukile ngokuphelele kumafomu okuthunga wakudala waya kulawa mafomu amasha. Empeleni, sakha isitolo esisha eNovara ukuze kwakhiwe wonke lawa majakhethi amasha namasudi nezinye izingubo esiziklamayo.”
Amamodeli akumuvi—amanye awo abesifazane abagqoke izinguqulo eziqondile ezifika phansi zezingubo zabesilisa—ayegqoke izicucu ngemibala ehlukene, izinto zokwakha, kanye nemiklamo eyayisadalwe ukuthi ishintsheke futhi ihlanganiselane (njengama-trad gents athunga ikhabethe lezingubo) kodwa ngobuhle obucwengisiswe ngokwangempela.
Amajakhethi e-kimono ayisigamu anamabhande angaphakathi, amajakhethi ezingubo zokusebenza afakwe ephaketheni ajulile, amabhulawusi afakiwe, noma amajakhethi amade namadevu afika ezinhlobonhlobo zikasilika ocijile noma isikhumba sethole esilungisiwe, noma uboya be-Trivero obuvuselelwe kabusha noma ukotini, noma i-kangaroo, ilineni, i-hemp, noma ngaphezulu, futhi ayenziwe. yakhiwe kusetshenziswa amasu e-sartorial (ukukhanyisa emaphaketheni, imikhono ye-raglan).
Ezinye izingcezu zazilukwe nge-jacquard yoboya obungacacile, kodwa iningi lalithembele ku-matte noma ekukhanyeni kwendwangu ukuze kukhangelwe iso. Imibala yayihluka kusuka komnyama, omnqumo, i-vanilla, kanye ne-navy kuya koluhlaza okwedlulele nopinki.
Ngezansi kwamajakhethi kwakucishe kube yizimo zebhulukwe ezinemilenze ebanzi ehlala ixutshwe neraba ukuze kunqandwe ukubola emiphethweni, yona eyayigqokwa phezu kwamateku anwebekayo esikhumba e-slingback kanye namabhuzu e-chukka abunjiwe. Izinsiza zazihlanganisa amasatchel omsebenzi wekhangaroo anemibala ehambisanayo kanye nezibuko zelanga ezinamafasitela amancane avikelayo esitayela sawo-1970 alenga ngaphansi kwethempeli ngalinye.
“Ukusetshenziswa kwezinto zokwakha kuya kujula kakhulu, futhi ukuqhubeka nenqubo egaywe kabusha kusiletha emiculweni ebesingayilindele ngaphambili, njenge-hemp nosilika. Okugxilwe kukho wukusebenza ngale ndlela yokulinganisa, ukungacabangi isizini ngayinye hhayi ngalokho ongenakho kodwa lokho onakho, kanye nokuthi ungayandisa kanjani ngaphandle kokulahla lutho kodwa ukuze ukwandise ukukhetha kwakho nezinketho zakho. Ngaphansi kwakho konke, ngicabanga ukuthi, ukunethezeka sekuyisihluthulelo. "
Sartori
Njengoba iphuma ku-maze inombono omusha wendlela, kuzothakazelisa ukubona ukuthi ubuhle obusanda kwakhiwa be-EZ buzochuma yini ngokungcoliswa okubanzi phakathi kwe-ecosystem yezingubo zabesilisa: asikho isizathu sokuthi kungani kungafanele, kanye nazo zonke izizathu zokuthi kungani kungenzeka.