Ngesikhathi nje sokugubha iminyaka engu-75 yasungulwa ngoJanuwari odlule, indlu yaseBrioni yabonakala izithole isesimweni esibi ngemva kokubekezelela iminyaka eminingana yesivunguvungu. Ngalobo busuku obupholile bango-2020 ePitti eFlorence, uFrançois-Henri Pinault kaKering wenze iphathi enhle yesidlo sakusihlwa ngomsindo omnandi we-palazzo olandelwa abaculi bakudala abaphambili emhlabeni, bonke ababebukeka bebahle njengoba bezwakala bencomeka enkulumweni esanda kumiswa ka-Norbert Stumpfl. yobuchwepheshe bokuthunga be-Abruzzo obungenakuqhathaniswa buka-Brioni.
Njengoba uBrad Pitt enza imikhankaso, yini engase ihambe kabi?
Shesha phambili kule ntambama, lapho uthi lwentatheli luqale khona ukuvevezela ngesikhathi se-aphoyintimenti ye-Brioni spring 2022. Futhi kwakungekhona ukuthi i-oomph iphumile emsebenzini we-Stumpfl-ngoba ayizange iphume.
Kushuthi, mhlawumbe ngendlela edabukisayo, ngaphakathi naseduze kwendlu enganakekile yothando yozalo lwendwangu olufiphele eduze kwaseMilan, umsebenzi kaStumpfl wasala uwumculo wezingubo zabesilisa ovusa inkanuko ongathanda ukuwudlala ngokuwugqoka. Izingubo zokugqoka, amajakhethi, amaknithi angaphambili anephaneli, namabhulukwe konke kwakwenziwe ngosilika othayi odaywe ngokweqile osukiwe, eminye ebonisa imiyalelo yokuwasha (ihlanzekile eyomile kuphela).
I-Scalpel ihlukanisa amajakhethi angakhiwe nge-cashmere enhle kakhulu nelineni, amajakhethi e-tonal namahembe ngelineni yesiNgisi, amajakhethi amaciko axakile e-Jacques Cousteau blues, izingubo zangaphandle ezifakwe i-nubuck ephehla amanzi efakwe ilotus, kanye nesudi ye-chic bespoke boiler suit yelineni/uvolo/usilika enikeziwe. amanothi engeziwe ekhorasi.
Kulandela amasudi egolide angesizini edlule aguge ngokungagwegwesi—hhayi anombala wegolide, kodwa ayigolide— (ayethengiswa kahle ezimakethe ezihlukahlukene futhi abe nentshinga kuma-Oscars), ukuvala kwe-Stumpfl kwachuma lapha kwakuyijakhethi yezimbali eyigolide nesiliva eyalukwa. ngesilinganiso samasentimitha angu-5 ngeviki. Kwakukhona futhi i-cameo ethinta inhliziyo yezicathulo zesiliva ezaziwukuhlonipha umeluleki womklami, u-Alber Elbaz: Umculi omkhulu ongasekho wayegqoke ipheya elifanayo ngegolide emshadweni kaStumpfl.
Lawa bekungama-riff ambalwa kuphela okufanele ujabule avela kwelinye iqoqo elikhohlisayo lalo mklami.
Lelo phepha elibi okukhulunywe ngalo ekuqaleni alizange lihlatshwe yizingubo, kodwa into engabonakali kakhulu kodwa ebambekayo ngokulinganayo: Ngisho noma kuqhathaniswa nesikhathi sokuqokwa kwegumbi lombukiso lesizini edlule kube nesimo esingesihle nesimanqikanqika kule phrezentheshini—izithombe ezimbalwa nje ezindongeni, ezimbalwa ama-mannequins, izingubo kuma-rails. Ukuthula kulo mbukiso wase-Brioni, uma kuqhathaniswa ikakhulukazi nesiphithiphithi sezingane ezigqoke indlu ezigijima zingena futhi ziphuma kumakhelwane wase-Balenciaga, bekuphawuleka.
Njengokuphela kohlobo lwezingubo zamadoda zasendulo ezimsulwa zika-Kering—kanye nenye esanda kutholwa kubanikazi bayo bangaphambili abangama-Roma—lokhu kubonakale njengomzuzu othulile kakhulu endabeni yayo kusukela ngombukiso omkhulu we-hoo-ha ka-2013 ngaphansi kuka-Brendan Mullane e-Castello Serbelloni.
Ukudlulisa ngokushesha kuze kube manje, i-Brioni ngaphansi kwe-Stumpfl ayifanele ukuvunyelwa ukuba ikhule ngokungenzi lutho: Lesi yisikhathi sokushintshashintsha, sokucindezela, kanye nokugqamisa ngevolumu ephezulu i-savoir faireless masculine savoir faire izingcweti zikaBrioni ezinazo emhlabeni ukubuyisela ngokushesha isifiso sayo sokugqokwa okuhle okukodwa.