Eqoqweni le-Giorgio Armani Menswear Spring 2022 eMilan isudi ivuselelwa ngokwakheka kwayo, iphakamisa umbono wokuxhumanisa phezulu nangaphansi: ihembe lakusihlwa elinekhololo yokuma noma ijazi le-denim elisikiwe elihlanganiswe nebhulukwe elinemicibisholo eyenziwe ngaphakathi. i-pinstripe wool efanayo, noma i-gilet-jacket enezikhindi ze-Bermuda.
Iqoqo ligcwele umuzwa othile wokukhanya: izinto ezisetshenziswayo ezingenasisindo, imilo ephulula umzimba ngendlela ewuketshezi, isimo sengqondo esizolile nesingenandaba. Indlela yezemidlalo yokugqoka—eshukumisayo, entofontofo futhi enesibindi—eyenziwe ukukhetha okungokwemvelo nokubalulekile nemibala esukela kumbala oluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka kuye koyisanti kanye nokumhlophe ngoshoki, okunopopu okubomvu nokuluhlaza okukhumbuza umhlaba wemvelo — ivumelana njalo, Yiqiniso.
Ku-Giorgio Armani, ukusetha kabusha okukhulu kube nomthelela omkhulu. “Ngokwami, ngiye ngafunda ukujabulela izinto ngokwengeziwe nokusebenza usuku nosuku, ngingahleli kakhulu kusengaphambili noma ngicindezele kakhulu. Futhi kufanele ngivume, bekunempilo kakhulu kimi, ”ubhale nge-imeyili ngaphambi kombukiso wakhe wokuqala enababukeli kusukela ngoFebhuwari 2020.
Lawo bekungamagama abalulekile entokozo eyazilawula, futhi umfutho esiwubone ku-Armani ngonyaka odlule ube ngumbala omuhle kuye. Leli qoqo bekunjalo.
Kunokuba abuyele lapho egcine khona-i-monolithic HQ Teatro ehlala abantu abangama-800-umeme abantu abangama-80 kuphela lapho kwaqala khona: ikhaya lakhe (kanye nekomkhulu langaphambili) e-Via Borgonuovo 21, lapho eminye yemidlalo yakhe edume kakhulu yathatha khona. indawo. Uyazi ukuthi bekubalulekile kuyena ngoba ubebekezelele abakhi kanye nezivivinyo ezizwakalayo begxambukela kwi-idyll yakhe yasekhaya amasonto amabili ngaphambi kwalokho. Ngaleso sikhathi, u-Armani wayephatha imibukiso egumbini le-palazzo elingaphansi komhlaba, ipulani yakuqala ye-Teatro enezihlalo ezingu-300 kanye nedamu lokubhukuda elinomzila owodwa eliseduze.
Engadini yasegcekeni yaseJapane, izinyathelo eziqhelelene nomdwebo ka-Silvio Pasotti we-Armani shirtless engafi eduze kwabantu besikhathi sakhe sekhulu lama-20 (u-Yves Saint Laurent, uKarl Lagerfeld, uLiza Minelli), ubonise ukuthi umqondo wakhe we-distilled usho ukuthini ikhabethe le-Armani: elicashile, elithambile, eyinkimbinkimbi, futhi e-sexy kancane.
Ethula iqoqo labalingiswa abayimodeli abazizwa beqondise ngaphezu kokujwayelekile, walungisa isithunzi sakhe esisemthethweni futhi wakhulula imigqa ecijile ngomqondo wokuthi ‘izingubo zemidlalo’ zazibukeka kanjani ngaphambi kwekhulunyaka elimaphakathi. Mhlawumbe yilokho okugqokwa ngokomthetho kubukeka kanjani ku-21st?
Ukuqonda kwakungajwayelekile ngaphandle kokuwela endaweni yamavila. "Isimo sengqondo sisonke silula kakhulu, ngoba ngicabanga ukuthi sonke sifunde ukungahleleki futhi sikhululeke endleleni esigqoka ngayo,"
Kuchaza u-Armani.
Wathatha isinyathelo ngokumelene nesudi evamile, enikeza izizukulwane ezintsha—kanye nendala—indlela yokugqoka ethuthukisiwe okufanele iphile ngayo: “Icatshangelwe kabusha, ngakho ayisakhiwa i-blazer nebhulukwe.” Manje, u-Armani ukholelwa ukuthi ‘isudi’ ingaba ihembe nebhulukwe endwangu efanayo, noma inhlanganisela ye-general blouson-and-trousers.
Noma: amajakhethi elineni afana nalawa ase-Armani-grey asanda kuwenzela iqembu lebhola lezinyawo lase-Italy, ekhuthazwe ikhabethe lomqeqeshi wodumo u-Erzo Bearzot. Izilimi ezikhohlakele emaphephandabeni ase-Italy zathi ibhantshi lenza abadlali babukeke njengabapheki, okubonisa nje ukuthi ngisho ne-Armani—insika yokunemba kokunemba—ingaphezu kwemithetho yokugqoka yesintu. “Angithandi uma abantu begqokiswa izingubo esikhundleni sokuzigqokisa. Lokhu sekubaluleke kakhulu kulesi simo esikhona,” esho ephikisa.
“Ngandlela thize, lo bhubhane selukhombisile ukuthi indlela engizizwa ngayo yesitayela esingaphelelwa yisikhathi futhi esisebenza kanzima ibilokhu ibalulekile. Yilokhu kanye engingathanda ukukuveza ngaleli qoqo: umbono wenduduzo ohambisana kakhulu nezikhathi esiphila kuzo.” Ngenkathi ukuguqulwa kwezingubo zokugqoka mhlawumbe kuhlobene kakhulu nomgwaqo we-Armani - iziketi ezincane zabesilisa ezihlongozwayo kwenye indawo kuleli sonto zithathelwe indawo izikhindi ezithize lapha - umthelela wobhubhane kumklami uyabonakala.
Ngisho noma eqhubeka nokuphikisa iziphakamiso angase athengise inkampani yakhe, njengamahemuhemu angesonto eledlule okuthi u-Armani wayehlanganisa noFerrari. “Ukuze ngiqhubeke nesingathekiso sokushayela, kuseyimina osesihlalweni sokushayela. Ngizakhele konke lokhu eminyakeni engaphezu kwengu-40 yomsebenzi wami, futhi ngenze izinhlelo eziqondile neziningiliziwe zekusasa. Ngakho-ke asikho isidingo sokuthi abantu bagcizelele,” kubhala umklami. Kokunye ukuchezuka kwenqubo, wabamba umnsalo wakhe ngesandla ngesandla nomsizi wakhe wokuqala, u-Leo Dell'Orco. I-Armani, ngendlela, ayishayeli iFerrari. Ngoba ngenkathi kungenzeka ukuthi usesihlalweni sokushayela esingokomfanekiso, wengeza, “Kufanele ngivume ukuzitika kwami okuncane: nginomshayeli, futhi ngincamela ukushayelwa ngizulazule kunokushayela mina ngokwami imoto.”
Umqondisi: @amaranta957
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