Abalandeli boqobo bakaRiccardo Tisci, jabulani! Selokhu umklami efika e-Burberry, abazinikele bebelokhu befuna okwengeziwe kofuzo olungafi ngenxa yeminyaka yakhe eyi-10 ye-Givenchy: lobo buhle obunegazi elibomvu, insingo, nobuhle obungavamile obumisiwe phakathi kwengozi nesifiso.
Kule sizini, bathole lokho kanye. Iqoshwe endaweni ewugwadule yasemadolobheni ngabakwaMillennium Mills eRoyal Victoria Docks yase-East London, iqoqo labesilisa likaTisci laphazamisa ubuhle obuhluke kakhulu emsebenzini wakhe embukisweni wakhe weBurberry kuze kube manje. Kwakunezikhombo zomsele kanye ne-carcoat eziningi, kodwa ngokwenkulumo yayo emsulwa, lokhu kwakunguBurberry efunda ulimi lukaTisci hhayi ngenye indlela.
˝Bengifuna iqoqo lithwebule lowo moya wamahhala wobusha kanye nesimo sengqondo sawo sokwethembeka nesokuqunga isibindi, lowo muzwa wokuhlola nokungabi nalutho. Kunomuzwa onamandla wobumbano kodwa futhi nokudedela - ukukhuthazana nokuphakamisana ukuveza ubuntu bethu ngokukhululeka. Kungamandla aluhlaza kakhulu athathelwanayo, ajabulisayo futhi agcwele impilo. Njengokuvuka.˝
Riccardo Tisci
Wagenca imikhono ezimpahleni zangaphandle futhi waphinda wasiqopha kwaba isimo seqhawe, wacwenga imigqa ye-raglan yezingubo zemidlalo, futhi wakwazi ukwenza i-halter-neck silhouette ibukeke i-hunky. Amapuleti esifuba aphikisanayo aqhubeka nalezo zingxoxo, amanye ancipha abonisa isipoki esikikini, kuyilapho imichilo eyihaba yezingubo zasemsebenzini ihlanganisa imibono yamathambo nezimbambo, ibuyisela lezo zithombe ezithandekayo zikaMemento Mori noma uDía de Muertos umsebenzi kaTisci ovame ukuvela. esikhathini esedlule. Ephakamisa umbala ngamunye wesheke le-Nova, wayimboza yonke ingubo ewugqinsi, ewubukhazikhazi, enothuli e-beige, emhlophe, ebomvu, nemnyama, enamakhanda aluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka “okuwukuphela kwento esiye sakwazi ukuyibuka” ngenkathi sivaleleke. Ukuvalwa thaqa kwezwe.
Ukuhumusha kwakhe amakhodi kaBurberry-akhiwe kabusha kodwa acwengisisiwe-uzizwe eyiqiniso ku-ethos yakhe, wazibuza ukuthi kungani engazange athathe lo mzila ngokushesha. Ocingweni lwevidiyo oluvela efulethini lakhe laseMayfair, uTisci ucabange ngokuhlala kwakhe iminyaka emithathu. “Kuthatha isikhathi ukuthi umklami athole okufanelekile uma usebenza enkampanini. Kubantu abangaphandle, kubukeka sengathi uya lapho futhi…” wathula kancane. “Kuyinqubo ethokozisayo. Uma iqembu likhulu, lithakazelisa kakhulu futhi linzima futhi linzima. Ngakho-ke, kuhle ukuthi sesifikile lapha. Ngemuva kweminyaka emithathu, ubuwena buyacaca.” Ukusebenzisa isisho esinyanyekayo kodwa esifanelekile: Uyakwenza.
Kuthwetshulwe ngaphandle, amamodeli ahamba phakathi kwesanti, uma kuqhathaniswa nesakhiwo esincane seMillennium Mills eRoyal Victoria Docks, eLondon. Umculo we-Anthemic weqembu elakhiwe yi-British, Shpongle, udlala endaweni yonke. Umuzwa oyiqoqo wobuciko.
I-Tischi ihlanganisa imizwa yenkululeko kanye nokuhlangana, idala isikhashana se-positivity yentsha, egxile ezintweni ezingokomoya namandla omculo nokunyakaza.
“Kufanele uqonde ifa lenkampani, futhi yinkampani enkulu kangaka, ezweni eliqine kangaka. Kancane kancane, ubona izinto ozikhiphayo. Yinqubo yakho leyo,” kuchaza uTisci. Uma ubheka emuva emaqoqweni akamuva, ungabona indlela yesinyathelo ngesinyathelo eyathathwa ukuze uthole leli zwi, ukuze avumele uphawu lwakhe lokuthengisa lukhanye endlini yemfashini iminyaka eyikhulu emdala kunaye.
Kepha ubhubhane lwashintsha umbono kaTisci: “Ngizizwa ngisekhaya, noma ngabe bengivalelwe. Umhlaba uzoqala kabusha, futhi kimi, lokhu bekukusha. Yilokho esikufunayo namuhla: inkulumo, inkululeko, inkululeko yomzimba; ukuba yithi. Kuyi-punk ngendlela enhle: ukwephula imingcele. "
Ukubuka izwe libuyela ekuphileni—“futhi isizukulwane esisha esihlanyayo sibukeka futhi!”—UTisci wakhunjuzwa ngeminyaka yakhe yokuqala engamashumi amabili lapho ebalekela eNdiya futhi amehlo akhe avuleka ukuze abone elinye iqiniso. "Ngakhumbula i-rave yami yokuqala e-India, ngino-Shpongle, ongomunye wo-DJ abahamba phambili emculweni we-trance," esho, ebhekise eqenjini eliphinde lashaya lo mdlalo, "bebamba iqhaza kulezi zindawo ezivulekile, ngayo yonke le mvelo, ngakho konke lokhu. izizukulwane ezincane ezivela emhlabeni wonke, ukuba yimi futhi ngiziveze. Ngiphuma emndenini ompofu, kodwa ama-rave ayeyindawo engangikwazi ukuveza imizwa yami futhi ngibe sezingeni elifanayo nawo wonke umuntu.”
Ngokugxilisa iqoqo lakhe ngalezo zinkumbulo ze-rave, kwaba sengathi leso senzakalo sasiphinde sinike uTisci indawo yokuziveza ngokukhululekile.
Isitayela: Ib Kamara
Ukwakheka: Isamaya French
Izinwele: Jawara
I-Choreography: uJosh Johnson noTosh Basco
Abaqondisi: Partel Oliva
Umculo: Shpongle