I-Venice emhlabeni wokuvela kabusha, uma kungenzeka, iyisimangaliso kakhulu kunangaphambili, ngamahlengethwa abona ukugembula e-laguna kanye nezivakashi ezimbalwa ezizungezile ezizowabuka. Ngokunqobayo, lelo chibi elintekenteke lisanda kumenyezelwa njengetshe lesikhumbuzo sezwe, futhi ngesikhathi esifanayo uhulumeni wase-Italy wagcina ememezele ukuvalwa kwemikhumbi yemikhumbi eyayinempikiswano eyayinqoba idolobha kuyilapho kubonakala sengathi ililethela inzuzo encane ngokwezimali.
Njengoba imizila yedolobha emazombezombe kanye nama-piazza angenalutho, ngisho namapheshana e-Giardini, (esingethe iminikelo kazwelonke ye-Venice Architecture Biennale ehlangana ngaphansi kwendikimba ethi Sizophila Kanjani Ndawonye?) engakhungatheki ncamashi ngezivakashi, ibutho lezihlahla ezincanyana kakhulu. , efakwe ama-tattoos, egcwele isimo sengqondo, nokuzulazula endaweni eyinganekwane yedolobha, kwakubonakala kuphawuleka nakakhulu.
Lawa abonakale njengamamodeli nezithonjana zomkhiqizo zika-Anthony Vaccarello's Saint Laurent, edolobheni ukuhamba, ukugxoba, ukuzulazula, nokushelela umzila eqoqweni lomklami elihehayo (yize ukuhlukahluka komzimba, kubonakala kungakabi ingxenye yengxoxo. endaweni yezingubo zabesilisa).
Ngokuhambisana nokugxila kwedolobha kwamanje emathubeni okwakhiwa kwezakhiwo, uVaccarello usebenzisane nohlobo oludelela umdwebi nomenzi wefilimu u-Doug Aitken (owazuza uMklomelo Wamazwe Ngamazwe e-Venice Biennale ka-1999) endaweni yokukhombisa iqoqo lakhe.
U-Aitken udale i-Green Lens, isakhiwo esimangalisayo esinesici esibukweni esahlanganiswa ngenyanga e-Isola della Certosa, futhi satshalwa ngohlaza lwehlathi elishisayo. Isebenza njengempendulo yombuzo obuzwe yi-Biennale, ihlanganisa ngokuvumelana ikusasa nemvelo yemvelo.
“Wonke amasethi kaSaint Laurent bengihlale ngizenzela ngendlela,” kuchaza uVaccarello, esidlweni sakusihlwa sangemva kombukiso esasisenxiweni elingenaphahla lesakhiwo esidala sezitini esiqhingini, “ngakho bekumnandi ukwabelana umqondo wokuqala ngqa neciko engilithanda kakhulu, futhi bekumnandi. Lowo mqondo bekufanele ube ngowombukiso wabesifazane ngonyaka owedlule,” kwengeza uVaccarello, “futhi ngenxa yalolu bhubhane siwuphushele kuze kube manje. Ekugcineni kwaba nengqondo kakhulu ukuba nayo e-Venice kunaseParis, ikakhulukazi nge-Architecture Biennale—kanye nalelo qoqo, eliyingxube yethonya elikhulu lika-Saint Laurent kanye nenqwaba ye-Venetian 'New Romanticism.' Hhayi. ukuwabeka kumlando, indlela ye-Venetian yakudala, kodwa endaweni yekusasa. Ngicabanga ukuthi ngemuva kwe-COVID ufuna ukubheka kakhulu ikusasa kunesikhathi esedlule—futhi ngiyayithanda leyo ngxube yesikhathi esedlule ezikhonjweni ezingutsheni, nekusasa esimweni.”
Ngesikhathi sombukiso osheshayo isakhiwo sibonisa isibhakabhaka esiluhlaza, ukukhanya kokuhwalala, kanye namanzi echweba aluhlaza kuyilapho ukukhanya kuka-Aitken kuguqula isimo sengqondo umzuzwana nomzuzwana, okusikisela ngokushintshashintsha kokushona kwelanga okuvuthayo noma ukuntwela kokusa kweScandinavia eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka. Njengoba kuboniswe kulezo zibuko, isizwe sika-Vaccarello saphuma sigqoke amajakhethi amancane noma amabhulawuzi aphihlizayo (cabanga ngo-Adam Ant kanye ne-New Romantics yaseBrithani yasekuqaleni kwawo-1980), namabhulukwe emilenze kagwayi anamabhuzu eqakala okukhetha ukuchotshoza anweba isithunzi esizacile.
Ukuguqulwa okufika ngesikhathi kokubolekwa kwezingubo zabesifazane ezingapheli ekhabetheni labesilisa lendabuko, u-Vaccarello uphinde wajabulela ukuhlola izingobo zomlando ezingenakuqhathaniswa ze-Saint Laurent zezingcezu zezingubo zabesifazane ezinganikezwa abafana, okuhlanganisa amabhulawuzi e-jacquard crepe namahembe kusukela ekuqaleni kwawo-'70s. , amajakhethi esifundweni asikiwe avela kumaqoqo e-Saint Laurent's Picasso (Fall 1979) kanye ne-Jazz (Spring 1978), kanye ne-bolero egqinsiwe ye-brocade evela eqoqweni lase-China (Fall 1977) kwacatshangelwa kabusha njengebhomu futhi kugqokwa namajini amnyama, kanye nenombolo. kwezinguquko ku-Le Smoking. U-Vaccarello uphinde waphawula ukuthi "kunezinto eziningi ezivela emaqoqweni ami adlule abesifazane-ezazisimama kakhulu ekugcineni," wanezela, "njengawo wonke amahembe eleyisi, izingcezu zesizini ezimbili noma ezintathu ezedlule."
Ukuhlonipha idolobha elizosingatha kube nedrama ye-carnival yaseVenice futhi emakepisini anyakazayo, okuhlanganisa nowosilika ophuzi ocwebezelayo oveze isibonelo esingaphumeleli esikhonjiswe embukisweni we-haute couture ka-Saint Laurent's Fall 1983, (futhi okwalandela kwanyakaziswa usonhlalakahle uNan Kempner e-Costume. Igalari yesikhungo ebibungaza umklami). "Ngicabanga ukuthi bekumnandi ukubona ukuthi insizwa ingathatha kanjani," kusho uVaccarello mayelana nesiphakamiso sakhe sobulili, "Futhi kufanele ngisho ukuthi babekucabangela ngokwemvelo, [kungaba] ihembe leleyisi, noma izicathulo zepulatifomu."