Lona bekuwumbukiso wokuqala ongokoqobo we-Emporio Armani kusukela ngoFebhuwari 2020, futhi iqoqo laphawula iminyaka engama-40 yasungulwa.
Njengoba i-Armani teatro, ingenalutho ngenxa yezihlalo eziqhelelene nomphakathi, lo mbukiso uzizwe njengomcimbi opholile wangaphakathi - ukuzilolonga ngisho - uma kuqhathaniswa nokuminyana okuvamile, inhlebo yangaphambi kombukiso kanye nokulibaziseka okunembayo, okuyimizuzu engama-30 ngaphambi kokuthi kuvele amamodeli okuqala. Bekuwumbukiso wokuqala we-Runway we-Emporio Armani kusukela ngoFebhuwari 2020, lapho i-COVID-19 ihlasela umhlaba. Isizathu sesibili kwakuwukuthi eceleni kwakhe kulo mnsalo kwakunguSilvana, umshana wakhe: UMnu. Armani, 86, useshilo kakade ukuthi ulungiselela ikusasa, futhi lobu kwakuwubufakazi obusha balokho.
Lo mbukiso ubugubha iminyaka engu-40 kusukela u-Armani avula isitolo esisha eMilan ethengisa iqoqo ayezolibiza ngokuthi Emporio Armani, noma i-Armani Emporium (ngesiNgisi esiLatini). Umqondo wawuwukuhumusha isikhalazo sakhe esikhuphukayo saseMelika uGigolo– kanye noGrace Jones-esiqhubekisela phambili isikhalo sibe umqondo ofana nobuhlakani bokuthengisa buka-Elio Fiorucci, kodwa wawugxile ekukhulumeni okufinyeleleka kalula, okuthengekayo, nokuvumelana nezimo kwamakhodi e-Armani.
Kusukela ku-Roberto Mancini eme neqembu (elihle kakhulu) lebhola lezinyawo lesizwe lase-Italy kuya kumasizini angu-80 emikhankaso eye yabusa i-Corso Garibaldi namabhodi amakhulu emhlabeni jikelele, i-montage eqoshiwe eyandulela umbukiso (kodwa ngendlela emangalisayo engazange ifake izimpawu ezikhanyayo ze-titanic lokho okubingelela bonke abafika esikhumulweni sezindiza i-Linate) kukhumbuze izethameli ezihlukene (ngenxa yezizathu zempilo) ngesikhalazo sika-Emporio esihlala siluhlaza.
Iqoqo elalandela labonisa ukuthi kungani. Imboza kokubili izingubo zabesifazane nezingubo zabesilisa, yanqamula indawo eyinhloko ye-Armanian yokuthunga i-androgynous (kodwa hhayi okungenacansi), yaphonsa ekuhlakazweni okukhululekile kwesitayela sakhe se-eccentrico (esihlala siyisigqoko, kanye nobucwebe obuyisikhumbuzo se-Memphis-okukhumbuza i-chunky), iphambukiswe ngendlela ethile engaqondile kodwa. izinkomba ezingezona ezesiNtaliyane kuphethini ye-silhouette kanye ne-watercolor-esque, futhi ngezikhathi ezithile zibuyela ezinguqulweni zengubo yephathi enemiphetho emithathu eklanywe ngobuhlakani.
Njengangaphambili, bekunokubukeka okuningi kunezithombe ku-Vogue Runway ngenxa yokuthi u-Armani uthumele amamodeli akhe ngamaqoqo, amaqembu amakhulu asebenza ukugcizelela isahluko semfashini esilandisayo esibanzi abesixoxa. Inguquko yami eyintandokazi ibisuka esigabeni sezingubo zabesilisa esinamajakhethi amahle ahlanganiswe nothayi ababhalwe ngesundu (ireferensi yePhini le-Miami?) abegqokwa ngaphezu kwamaslayidi.
Lokhu kungazelele muntu kwezembatho zemidlalo emhlophe yonke kodwa enamapayipi ecishe yaguga ebonisa umugqa ovundlile ongu-7 welogo ye-EA: izikhindi zebhayisikili namateku ngokuhlukana, bekunzima ukusho ukuthi bezenzelwe yimuphi umdlalo, kodwa kubukeka kupholile. Bese kuba enye into: ukuthunga ilineni likasilika elichotshoziwe nge-kimono collar accents. Bese kuba omunye, futhi omunye...
Konke, nokho, kwakubukeka ku-Armani kuphela. Lona bekuwumbukiso owawubonisa ukuthi ukusungulwa kabusha okuqhubekayo ngaphakathi kwemingcele yamanani edizayini engaguquki kudala ifomula lapho ilebula ingahlala iyintsha phakade. E-Auguri, Emporio.
Amakhredithi: @stefanoguindani@sgpitalia