ngu-ALEXANDER FURY
Izingubo zikaFausto Puglisi zihambisana nombono oqondile, okhethekile kakhulu wemfashini "yesiNtaliyane": ehlotshiswe kakhulu, enephethini enezimbali, enemibala egqamile, futhi, kwabaningi, incane kakhulu. Usekhaya e-Florence, ne-palazzi yayo ewubukhazikhazi kanye nengemuva elicebile lemisebenzi yobuciko yeRenaissance.
Ngokuphambene, u-Puglisi wakhetha ukubukisa esiteshini sesitimela esingasasetshenziswa. Mhlawumbe lokho kungenxa yokuthi wanquma ukunikeza umhlobiso-i-phalanx yemizimba, owesilisa nowesifazane, njenge-frieze yaseRoma, ephakanyiswe phezu kwe-plinth futhi egqoke iminikelo yakhe yakamuva. Okusho ukuthi, iqoqo lakhe le-Resort yakhe, kanye nesambatho sakhe sokuqala sezingubo zabesilisa se-Spring 2017. Bahlala ndawonye ngokuphelele, emhlabeni othize wokudlulela okukhona u-Puglisi, njengomdwebo odongeni waseMichelangelo nge-Las Vegas, noma lawo mamodeli amaningi asekuqaleni 'wama-'90s u-Gianni. Imikhankaso yeVersace edutshulwa nguRichard Avedon. Abesifazane babegqoke izingubo ezimfishane, ezicwebezelayo ezinemibala eminingi eneziketi ze-skater ezi-jutting noma izendlalelo ezihlotshisiwe u-Puglisi azibize njengezakhe (vala umdonsiswano nalelo fa elishiwo ngenhla le-Versace). La madoda wonke abonakala efana ne-machismo yase-Italy eseningizimu—abantu abaningi babenentshebe, efana ngokuphawulekayo noPuglisi ngokwakhe.
Kwakubonakala kungahambisani—kodwa ngandlela-thile kwakungelona iqiniso. Ungakwazi ngokushesha futhi ngokusobala uhlobanise izingubo zabesilisa zikaPuglisi neVersace, kodwa futhi nokubukeka okusha okuhlinzekwa ngu-Olivier Rousteing e-Balmain. Womabili amalebula enza ibhizinisi elisheshayo emadodeni—futhi ayidlanzana kumareyili.
Buza uPuglisi ukuthi kungani ekhethe manje ukukhombisa ezamadoda, bese ephakamisa amahlombe. "Bengikhuluma no-Selfridges, noma uBergdorf Goodman, noma uJoyce, noma u-Lane Crawford," esho, ephawula abaculi bakhe abane abakhulu ngomculo oshisayo owawuhambisana nokwethulwa kwe-Pitti Uomo. “Bathi, ‘Kanjani ukwenza ezamadoda? Ngoba amadoda amaningi athenga izingcezu zakho zabesifazane abakhulu.’ ” Ngokusobala sikhona isikhala somuntu oyedwa ongaxoli, ikakhulukazi endaweni yemfashini yase-Italy, nakuba ungakaze ucabange ukuthi u-Puglisi uwuhlobo lomklami ozomela ikhabethe elisha elingenandaba nobulili. Ikakhulukazi njengoba imibono yakhe yowesilisa nowesifazane—lawo modeli wesilisa ampontshelwe emgqonyeni wezemidlalo ekhazimulayo ngokumelene no-A-line onesiketi, abesifazane abanezithende eziphakeme—ibonakala iqhelelene kakhulu njengo-G.I. UJoe kanye noBarbie.
Nakuba uhlobo lwamadoda azokhipha izindodla zemali ngezingubo zabesifazane ezixakile, nanamuhla, ambalwa futhi akude phakathi, kukhona abafana abazokhangwa ukuhloba kuka-Puglisi okungahambisani nokuxolisa. “Amadoda izikhathi eziningi akhululeke kakhudlwana,” kuphawula umklami. “Owesifazane uyacabanga, ‘Ingabe ngine-chic ngokwanele? I’m sexy too much?’ Kanti indoda: Uma uyithanda, uyayigqoka.” Uma uthanda u-Puglisi, uzobe ugqoke amajakhethi ebhomu ahlanganiswe nesiginesha sakhe esifekethisiwe se-starfish namagobolondo, imigexo econsa amakhorali asindayo, izikibha ezigxivizwe ngezithombe zonkulunkulu bamaRoma noma izigqoko zokuzivikela ze-Centurion, nezimbadada ze-gladiator ezigcwele izindondo, ezisongayo. phakamisa umlenze ngaphansi kwezikhindi eziphrintiwe ngama-hothouse blooms noma ama-denim ama-shredded.
Kwaba, kulungile ukusho, konke cishe kukhulu kakhulu. “Anginandaba ukuthi yikuphi ukunambitheka okuhle nokubi,” kusho uPuglisi. Futhi kukhona okumele kushiwo mayelana nokuthi uPuglisi ungena kanjani ngenhliziyo yonke nangokugcwele izitayela ezitayeleni abaningi abazozihlanganisa ngokuqinisekile ekugcineni. Kuyakholisa futhi. Ngendlela eyinqaba, kulula ukubona ikhasimende ngezingubo zalo zabesilisa kunezabesifazane balo, ngakho-ke ukubukeka kungahlukaniswa kalula kube izinto zesitatimende esisodwa-ibhomu elihlotshisiwe, isikibha esihlotshisiwe esifushane, esihlotshisiwe-futhi sihlanganiswe nezinye (mhlawumbe, izinto ezingahlotshisiwe kancane. Mhlawumbe lokho kungenxa yokuthi owesilisa wakwaPuglisi akathembekile njengowesifazane wakhe. Ubungeke unake amajakhethi akhe ambalwa alula, angena egumbini angena eqoqweni lakhe lezingubo zabesifazane, lapho ukubukeka okukhangayo ngokwedlulele kungenalo ukwesaba, okungaphezulu kwesiqinisekiso. Kodwa mhlawumbe isimo sizohlehliswa kulabo bathengisi bephrofayili ephezulu; ungase ucabange ukuthi owesifazane wasePuglisi ecwilisa ekhabetheni lendoda kulawo mabhomu agcwele inqwaba.