Balenciaga Ready To Wear jesen/zima 2019 Pariz

Anonim

Demna Gvasalia se uhvatio u koštac sa mitskim Parižaninom, a njegov stav je bio žestok, sa šikom koji je bio oštar poput mirisa katrana koji se širio sa asfaltnog poda.

Isušivanje kolekcija sezonskih tema i narativa bila je jedna od velikih ideja koje je Demna Gvasalia donio u modu i Balenciagu. On je dao to uzbunu za jesen i izlio ogromno polje mirisnog asfalta na kojem je paradirao svoju viziju "pravog Parižanina današnjice". Oštar set i prigušeno, treperavo osvetljenje nisu prikrili navalu smele, uzbudljive mode koja je prolazila, skoro pa dotakla kolena gostiju.

Gvasalia je također odustao od većine uličnih pletenica za koje je bio stereotipno da se fokusira uglavnom na krojenje, i precizne siluete koje je Cristóbal Balenciaga bio pionir, uključujući čahure, babydolls i polufit oblike. „Kuća je imala tako dugu priču, ali moj posao je u osnovi da je modernizujem i da je učinim privlačnom za kupca koju danas imamo“, rekao je on iza scene.

Najavljivanje svoje pariške teme prije vremena u ekspanzivnom WWD intervjuu također je bilo nešto novo za dizajnera - i pronicljivo, s obzirom na povratak buržoaskog galskog šika koji uzima maha u francusku prijestolnicu.

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Njegov stav je bio sirov i ispuštao je tvrdu oštricu jednako oštar poput mirisa katrana koji se širio s poda. Za Gvasaliju, Pariz nije mitski modni grad predstavljen na arch couture fotografijama iz pedesetih i šezdesetih, već metropola koja zuji, uz dodatak hrabrosti i žestine. "Uzorci i oblici simboliziraju uobičajene svakodnevne aktivnosti - kupovinu namirnica, putovanje motorom na posao i izlazak nakon posla", suhoparno je nabrojano u emisiji.

Gvasalia je učvrstio svoju tvrdnju o prevelikim oblicima, predlažući za nju naduvače u obliku čahure, raskošna kimona i čvrste strižne dlake; veličine frižidera, kamilje kapute i kutijaste, sive jakne za njega. Kolekcija je bila smanjena, ali uvjerljiva, s većinom volumena usredsređenih na ramena. Preuveličane glave rukava putem 3-D oblikovanja elaborirane su na vrlo Margielinoj ideji, dok su jarm i rukave zategnuti naprijed i spojiti ih duž ključne kosti izgledale su potpuno novo i dale su hladan zaobljen oblik, poput polusjenice. Primijenio je ovo na pufere i kapute za muškarce; i elegantni ženski kaputi.

Tanji oblici bili su ekstra dugi; kragne ekstra visoke; i bili su izvedeni u raskošnim tkaninama i privlačnim bojama, što je kulminiralo neonskim kaputima od moire svile. Dizajnerov irigorozni humor dopirao je do šiljastih prstenova Ajfelove kule, printova iz suvenirnica i oblika vrećica od smeđeg papira izrađenih od kože i otisnutih logotipom koji nalikuje onom za "bio" ili organske proizvode u Francuskoj. Smešne su bile i večernje majice u obliku levka i svečane haljine sa karicom koja lebdi oko ramena, dočaravajući Pjera Kardena.

Emisija je bila daleko duža nego inače, što je odražavalo treću inovaciju: Gvasalia odustaje od pretkolekcija i ovo je učinio svojom mega izjavom koja se nalazi na spoju zime i proljeća, uz održavanje više rokova isporuke. Činilo se kao da je uživao i u prilici da na ekspanzivan način izrazi svoju naklonost prema francuskoj prijestolnici, nakon što se prošle godine preselio u Cirih gdje je sada smješten njegov prepoznatljivi brend Vetements. „Odselivši se, nekako sam se ponovo zaljubio u Pariz“, razmišljao je.

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