Demna Gvasalia tackled lub mythic Parisian, thiab nws coj yog tsiv, nrog ib tug nqaij li pungent raws li tar tsw wafting los ntawm asphalt pem teb.
Kev sau cov ntsiab lus raws caij nyoog thiab cov lus piav qhia yog ib lub tswv yim loj Demna Gvasalia coj los ua zam, thiab rau Balenciaga. Nws muab qhov hnyav-ho rau lub caij nplooj zeeg, thiab nchuav ib thaj av loj ntawm cov ntxhiab asphalt uas ua rau nws lub zeem muag ntawm "tus neeg Parisian tiag tiag ntawm hnub no." Lub teeb stark thiab dim, flickering teeb pom kev zoo tsis pom kev maj nrawm ntawm bold, thrilling zam uas whisked dhau los, yuav luag txhuam lub hauv caug ntawm cov qhua.
Gvasalia tseem cia mus rau feem ntau ntawm cov khaub ncaws hnav khaub ncaws uas nws tau ua los ntawm kev tsom mus rau feem ntau ntawm kev txiav, thiab qhov tseeb silhouettes Cristóbal Balenciaga pioneered, suav nrog cocoons, babydolls thiab semifit duab. "Lub tsev tau muaj cov dab neeg ntev li no, tab sis kuv txoj haujlwm yog qhov tseem ceeb los hloov kho nws thiab ua kom nws txaus siab rau cov neeg siv khoom uas peb muaj hnub no," nws hais backstage.
Tshaj tawm nws lub ntsiab lus Parisian ua ntej ntawm lub sijhawm nyob rau hauv kev nthuav dav WWD kev sib tham kuj yog ib yam tshiab rau tus tsim qauv - thiab muaj txiaj ntsig, muab qhov rov qab los ntawm bourgeois Gallic chic tau txais lub zog hauv Fabkis lub peev.
Nws noj yog nyoos, thiab emitted ib tug tawv ntug raws li pungent raws li tar tsw wafting los ntawm hauv pem teb. Rau Gvasalia, Paris tsis yog lub nroog mythic zam sawv cev hauv cov duab kos duab ntawm Tsib caug thiab Sixties, tab sis lub nroog loj, nrog kev pab ntawm grit thiab hnyav. "Cov qauv thiab cov duab qhia txog kev ua ub ua no niaj hnub - khoom noj khoom haus, kev mus los ntawm lub tsheb kauj vab, thiab tawm mus tom qab ua haujlwm," cov yeeb yaj kiab tau sau tseg kom qhuav.
Gvasalia ntxiv dag zog rau nws daim ntawv thov ntawm cov duab loj loj, thov lub hnab ntim cov cocoon puffers, sumptuous kimonos thiab beefy belted shearlings rau nws; fridge-loj, ntxhuav saum lub tsho tiv no thiab lub thawv, grey pea tsho rau nws. Cov khoom sau tau rov qab tsis tau tseem ceeb, nrog rau feem ntau ntawm cov ntim ua si hauv nruab nrab ntawm lub xub pwg nyom. Exaggerated lub tes tsho taub hau ntawm 3-D molding elaborated ntawm ib lub tswv yim Margiela heev, thaum pitching tus quab thiab lub tes tsho rau pem hauv ntej thiab tacking lawv raws lub dab tshos saib tshiab nkaus, thiab muab ib tug txias puag ncig zoo li ib tug penumbra. Nws siv qhov no rau puffers thiab pea tsho rau txiv neej; thiab sleek trench tsho tiv no rau cov poj niam.
Slimmer duab tau ntev ntev; dab tshos siab ntxiv; thiab tau rendered nyob rau hauv voluptuous fabrics thiab fetching xim, culminating nrog fluted neon tsho tiv no nyob rau hauv moire silk. Tus tsim kev lom zem tsis txaus ntseeg tuaj txog nrog cov nplhaib Eiffel Ntauwd, cov khoom plig-khoom luam tawm thiab cov hnab ntim khoom noj xim av ua rau tawv tawv thiab stamped nrog lub logo zoo li ib qho rau "bio," lossis organic, khoom hauv Fabkis. Funny, ib yam nkaus, yog lub funnel-zoo li yav tsaus ntuj saum thiab tog hnav khaub ncaws nrog ib tug hoop hovering nyob ib ncig ntawm lub xub pwg nyom, evoking Pierre Cardin.
Cov yeeb yam tau ntev dua li niaj zaus, xav txog qhov kev hloov tshiab thib peb: Gvasalia tab tom xa tawm nrog cov khoom sau ua ntej thiab ua qhov no nws cov nqe lus mega straddling lub caij ntuj no thiab caij nplooj ntoos hlav, thaum tuav ntau lub qhov rais xa khoom. Nws zoo nkaus li nws kuj txaus siab rau lub sijhawm los nthuav tawm txoj hauv kev nthuav dav nws txoj kev hlub rau Fabkis lub peev, tau tsiv mus rau Zurich xyoo tas los uas nws lub npe kos npe, Vetements, tam sim no raws li. "Los ntawm kev tawm mus, kuv zoo li poob rau hauv kev hlub dua nrog Paris," nws hais.