'Kudzitamandira kotseguka' ndi liwu lomwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito ndi mibadwo ya digito powonetsa zinthu zapamwamba zomwe zangopezedwa kumene ndi mawu ofotokozera pazama TV. Zolinga za nsanje za anzawo, nthawi zambiri zimakhala zamtundu wa esoteric: nsapato, matumba, ndi zovala zomwe siziri zokondweretsa diso; wovuta pang'ono, wosokoneza, kapena wonyansa-wozizira. Kuzizira kwawo ndi chidziwitso cha anthu ammudzi: ngati mukudziwa, mukudziwa. Mutha kugwiritsa ntchito njira imeneyi pazinthu zambiri zomwe Matthew M. Williams amapangira Givenchy.
Ulamuliro wake panyumbayo ukuwoneka kuti ukungoyang'ana Gen Z ndi iwo omwe amadziwonetsera momwemo - ngati kampeni yapa media yachaka chatha yomwe ili ndi anthu otchuka kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi ndi chilichonse chomwe chingachitike.
"Pamapeto pa tsiku, zimabwerera ku chibadwa komanso zomwe ndimafuna. Sindine wanzeru kwambiri. Ndikukhulupirira kasitomala akonda zomwe ndimakonda,"
Matthew M. Williams.
Wopangayo adatero pafoni yochokera ku Paris, koma zosonkhanitsira zake zachiwiri zimawoneka ngati zogwirizana ndi gawo la Gen Z. Silhouettes zinali zowoneka bwino komanso zamphamvu m'njira yomwe imamveketsa kuchuluka kwa kuvala kwa skate m'mizere yowonjezereka; “micro-macro,” iye anawatcha iwo—kukokomeza monga ngati kuchitidwa kuti awonekere pakompyuta.
Maonekedwe anali hyper-tactile mwanjira ya mesmeric kuti chophimba cha foni mu ng'ona yabodza kapena neon fuzz imapangitsa ubongo kufuna kuyifikira ndikuigwira. Ndipo zowonjezera zinali ndi mawonekedwe odabwitsa komanso osema mwa iwo omwe amawapangitsa kukhala osaiwalika komanso oyenera Insta, ngati chinthu chakunja m'malo osayembekezeka.
Zinali ndi malaya akuluakulu, aubweya ndi ma gilets ofananira -nyanga, monga nyengo yatha - ndi nthiti zazikulu za ubweya ngati chinachake chochokera m'buku la Jean M. Auel, koma mwinamwake "owonjezera padziko lapansi," monga momwe Williams adanena za ziboda zake. -monga nsapato za nsanja, zoyenera centaur.
Zowonetsedwa m'mafakitale a Paris La Défense Arena (omwe wopanga adati adamukumbutsa za oimba ake akale ovala) okhala ndi nyali zoyang'ana pamwamba pamitu yamamodeli ngati akuthawa mbale yowuluka, choperekacho chinali chovuta kwambiri cha sci-fi koma ndi zopindika zapanja zomwe takhala tizolowera nyengo ino. M'malo mwake, ngati nthawi yathu yokhazikika m'kupita kwanthawi yasintha malingaliro a opanga kukhala opambana, awa anali manda akunja - mawonekedwe olimba, otsogola.
Ponena za zinthu zolimba komanso zamakono, maunyolo apamwamba aku Cuba adalankhula ndi misala yamakono yapa media, pomwe zida zopangira zovala komanso kukongoletsa madiresi zidapitilira mkangano wa Williams pakati pa ogulitsa a Givenchy ndi dziko lake la mafakitale.
"Ndizosangalatsa komanso zokongola komanso zikuwonetsa mphamvu zachikazi," adatero.
Anamasuliranso kukhudzika komweku m'kukankhira kwake koyamba kapeti yofiyira, ngati madiresi amadzulo a m'madzi okhala ndi zomata zolimba, zomwe zidalowa m'mipendero yolimba ngati kugunda kwa mafunde. Mizere yawo ikuwonetsa zomwe a Williams akufuna kuti apange silhouette ya azimayi, yojambulidwa ndi manambala oluka kapena madiresi amzati.Kwa zaka 43 zoyamba za kukhalapo kwake, nyumba ya Givenchy inali chipilala cha kukoma kokoma kokhazikika.
Ngakhale zinali choncho, kunja kwa bokosilo, zatsopano zinalinso gawo la equation. Hubert de Givenchy adapanga chizindikiritso ndi zomwe adasonkhanitsa mu 1952: Zinatengera zolekanitsa, zomwe mkazi amatha kusakaniza ndi kuzifananiza m'malo movala mwaukapolo monga momwe mlengi adawonetsera, ndipo limenelo linali lingaliro lanthawiyo.
Kuti couturier anali wamng'ono kwambiri pazochitika za Paris (komanso wokongola kwambiri 6-foot-6) sizinapweteke ndemanga zake.
Givenchy adatengedwa pansi pa mapiko a mbuye waku Spain Cristóbal Balenciaga, ndipo pambuyo pake ntchito yake idakhala yocheperako mwachinyamata.
Iye ndi mphunzitsi wake analongosoledwa ndi The New York Times kukhala “mosakayikira olinganiza aulosi koposa padziko lonse.” Mkati mwa nthaŵi imeneyi iye anayambitsa (panthaŵi imodzi ndi Balenciaga) kavalidwe ka magemu osintha zinthu, kapena kavalidwe ka thumba, kotamandidwa monga “mpangidwe watsopano wa mafashoni.” Amadziwikanso kuti akuchita upainiya wa silhouette ya princess, ndipo pamene mafilimu a kanema Audrey Hepburn adavala kavalidwe kakang'ono ka Givenchy, dzina lake linakhala logwirizana ndi Sabrina neckline.