'Gufungura kwirata' ni ijambo rikoreshwa n'ibisekuru bya digitale kugirango berekane ibintu bishya biguzwe hamwe nibice byanditse kurubuga rusange. Ibintu by'ishyari ry'urungano, akenshi ni kamere ya Esoteric: inkweto, imifuka, n'imyambaro idashimishije ijisho; gato biteye isoni, gusenya rwose, cyangwa bibi-byiza. Ubukonje bwabo nubumenyi bwabaturage: niba ubizi, urabizi. Urashobora gukoresha ubwo buryo kubintu byinshi Matayo M. Williams ashushanya kuri Givenchy.
Manda ye murugo isa nkaho yibasiwe na Gen Z hamwe nabayireba muri bo-byibuze niba umwaka ushize wamamaza imbuga nkoranyambaga zirimo ibyamamare bikurikiranwa cyane kwisi nibintu byose.
Ati: “Iyo umunsi urangiye, usubira mu bushake n'icyo nifuza. Ntabwo ndi stratégie cyane. Twizere ko umukiriya akunda ibyo nkunda. ”
Matayo M. Williams.
Umunyabugeni yabivuze kuri terefone avuye i Paris, ariko icyegeranyo cye cya kabiri cyasaga nkicyerekeranye nicyo gice cya Gen Z. Silhouettes yari ishushanyije kandi ikomeye muburyo bwerekana amajwi ya skate-kwambara mumirongo myinshi; Yabahamagaye ati: “micro-macro,” irakabya nkaho ikorerwa kuri ecran.
Imiterere yari hyper-tactile murubwo buryo butangaje ko igifuniko cya terefone muri faux crocodile cyangwa neon fuzz ituma ubwonko bwifuza kubigeraho no kubikoraho. Kandi ibikoresho byari bifite ubuziranenge nubushushanyo kubwibyo bituma batazibagirana kandi Insta-ikwiye, nkibintu bitagaragara-ahantu-bidashoboka.
Yashizwe mu makoti manini, yuzuye ubwoya na gilets hamwe na balaclavas ihuye-ihembe, nka saison ishize, hamwe na mittens nini cyane nk'ikintu kiva mu gitabo cya Jean M. Auel, ariko birashoboka cyane ko ari “isi idasanzwe,” nk'uko Williams yabivuze ku binono bye. -bimeze nkinkweto za platform, bikwiranye na centaur.
Yerekanwe mu nganda za Paris La Défense Arena (uwashushanyaga yavuze ko yamwibukije abahoze ari abahanzi bambara umwuga) hamwe n'amatara yizengurutse hejuru yimitwe yicyitegererezo nkaho bari bahunze isafuriya iguruka, icyegeranyo cyari sci-fi inferno ariko hamwe na gufunga-guhumeka hanze kugoreka tumenyereye iki gihembwe. Mubyukuri, niba ibihe byacu byashize mugihe byahinduye imitekerereze yabashushanyije hanze, iyi yari imva hanze - verisiyo ikaze, yerekana.
Tuvuze ibintu bitoroshye kandi bigezweho, iminyururu ya Cuba yasimbujwe ivugana nimbuga nkoranyambaga ya none, mu gihe ibyuma byo kudoda ndetse no gushushanya imyenda byakomeje amakimbirane ya Williams hagati ya ateliers ya Givenchy hamwe n’isi ye y’inganda.
Ati: "Ni amarangamutima kandi meza kandi berekana ubushobozi bw'umugore".
Yasobanuye ubwo bwumvikane mu gusunika kwe kwa mbere kuri tapi itukura, mu bwoko bw'imyenda yo mu mazi yo mu mazi yometse ku ruhererekane rukomeye, rwinjira mu mitsi ifite imbaraga nko guhanuka kw'imipfunda. Imirongo yabo yagaragazaga icyifuzo cya Williams kuri silhouette y'abagore, cyerekanwe mumibare yimibiri cyangwa imyenda yinkingi.Mu myaka 43 yambere yabayeho, inzu ya Givenchy yari urwibutso rwuburyohe bwa conservateur.
Nubwo bimeze bityo, hanze yisanduku, guhanga udushya nabyo byari bigize kuringaniza. Hubert de Givenchy yakoze ikimenyetso hamwe nicyegeranyo cye cya mbere mu 1952: Yashingiye kubitandukanya, ibyo umugore yashoboraga kuvanga no guhuza aho kwambara ubunebwe nkuko byerekanwe nuwabishushanyije, kandi icyo cyari igitekerezo gishya kuri kiriya gihe.
Ko couturier yari umuhererezi kuri Paris (kandi mwiza cyane wa metero 6-6) ntacyo byamubabaje.
Givenchy yajyanywe munsi y’ibaba rya shebuja wo muri Espagne Cristóbal Balenciaga, nyuma yaho akazi ke ntigahinduka urubyiruko.
We n'umujyanama we basobanuye ko ikinyamakuru The New York Times ari "nta gushidikanya ko abashushanya abahanuzi ku isi." Muri iki gihe yatangije (icyarimwe na Balenciaga) chemise yimpinduramatwara, cyangwa imyenda yimifuka, izwi nk "imiterere yimyambarire mishya." Yashimiwe kandi kuba yarabaye umupayiniya wa silhouette, kandi igihe umukinnyi wa sinema witwa Audrey Hepburn yambaraga bwa mbere umwambaro muto wa Blackchy, izina rye ryahujwe iteka n'ijosi rya Sabrina.